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Joined: March 2007 Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | I know it's been covered here but I just can't track it down. What's the best way to cut a hole for a battery drawer in my Pacemaker? Are there any reasons not to?
or any reason not to use this particular drawer?
https://ie.farnell.com/bulgin/bx0023/battery-holder-1xpp3/dp/1184193 |
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Joined: March 2007 Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | OK so I found this. http://ovationfanclub.com/megabbs/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=31417&...
I don't have a Dremel or similar, I have hacksaws, jigsaw, files, drills, sandpaper...
I can get a template from the datasheet
Edited by sycamore 2020-04-29 5:29 AM
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Joined: November 2002 Posts: 3611
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Probably, drill small holes in the corners, then use a narrow sabersaw (about 5mm-wide & .5mm thick) blade to connect them, comfortably inside the template lines. Then, sand to your heart's content. |
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Joined: June 2012 Posts: 2316
Location: Pueblo West, CO | Use wide masking tape over the area where you're going to put the hole.
Draw the opening on the tape, then use a Dremel fiberglass cut-off wheel to rough-cut the hole. Cut it under size.
Next, use a Dremel small sanding drum to sand the hole to the correct size.
The trickier part is connecting the new battery holder to the pre-amp. If the pre-amp already has a female socket, you're golden. You'll just need a matching male plug on the new battery holder.
If it's an older pre-amp with the battery hard-wired to the circuit board, you'll need to decide if you want to do the same, or install a female socket.
When I installed a battery drawer in my 1655, both the battery and output jack were hard-wired. I chose to add female sockets to the pre-amp for both.
EDIT: Just saw you don't have a Dremel. Seesquare's advice is probably the next best way to accomplish the task.
Edited by DanSavage 2020-04-29 11:57 AM
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Joined: March 2007 Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | Good tip on the masking tape. Will be destringing later as the jack needs attention too. I'll know then whether hardwired or socketed and decide what to do. |
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Joined: March 2007 Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | Hardwired. Just need to clip off wires from the battery clip and solder to the new one. A fretboard clean is in order too |
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Joined: March 2007 Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | I took pictures of the inside too - very interesting, no evidence of damage or repairs, no wildlife residing inside.
https://imgur.com/KhiaWUL
https://imgur.com/P5ysmrY
https://imgur.com/HknNCyI
Might add an LED "on" indicator
Edited by sycamore 2020-04-30 5:52 AM
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Joined: March 2007 Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | Yikes! cutting holes in them is pretty scary https://imgur.com/sJFzm9m
But it fits https://imgur.com/LYtHdUo
Whats the best method of attaching screws to Lyrachord? This wood screw won't tighten down but may just be too small for the hole. |
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Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | You should find counter-sunk machine screws with nuts & washers on the inside.
Or big Pop-rivets.
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Joined: March 2007 Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | Yes I was thinking machine screws. I have some silvery ones which I suppose I can paint black. I also thought some sort of adhesive and fill in the screw holes. I fitted a Power On LED and re-soldered the output jack. Bit of a mini-makeover for the old girl. |
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Joined: February 2016 Posts: 1802
Location: When?? | Old Man Arthur - 2020-05-01 2:09 AM
Or big Pop-rivets.
Heck, don't stop there. Maybe some wingnuts on toggle bolt threads. |
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Joined: March 2007 Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | I ended up gluing plywood cleats inside and screwing in to those. There is the inevitable extra hole in the Lyrachord which will need filling. Red LED to remind me when it's on.
https://imgur.com/gallery/WH6GM8n |
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Joined: March 2007 Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | New strings polished frets and clean fretboard.
Edited by sycamore 2020-05-02 4:19 PM
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