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Sorta OT: Care and feeding of ebony
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Forums Archive -> The Vault: 2004-2005 | Message format |
cruster |
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Joined: May 2004 Posts: 2850 Location: Midland, MI | I recently asked on the G&L board about caring for ebony fretboard, but figured I'd inquire here as well. Generally, I hit my rosewood boards with lemon oil when I re-string, cleaning up any gunk and leaving them nice looking. Is this safe for ebony? So far, I've been told that lemon oil is the worst possible thing for fretboards, next to Kiwi shoe polish. Allegedly mineral oil-based solutions are to be used. What say you? | ||
Alaskan Fly Guy |
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Joined: July 2004 Posts: 474 Location: Anchorage, Alaska | I've had several folks tell me that lemon oil is fine. I hope it is because that's what I have been using. | ||
an4340 |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389 Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | Depends on the Lemon Oil Crusty. Some have petroliates or wax, and others don't. Read the lable. I've found the best thing for cleaning the frets is wd-40. Then clean off the wd-40 and crud with naptha. Then use mineral oil from the drug store on the fret board. The kind you take as a laxitave, not baby oil. I've been doing this for years now, and have had no fret board problems. | ||
stephent28 |
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Joined: April 2004 Posts: 13303 Location: Latitude 39.56819, Longitude -105.080066 | I use DR. Stringfellow by Kyser. It is marketed on the label as a LEM-OIL fretboard conditioner. Seems to work fine and you see it on the shelves of all the shops that carry the high-end Martins, Lowdens, Taylors, etc. | ||
Old Applause Owner |
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Joined: July 2003 Posts: 1922 Location: Canton (Detroit), MI | I use Dr. Stringfellow by Kyser, also, and it has always seemed to give a nice fresh appearance to my ebony and rosewood fingerboards, as well as bridges. There's never been any problem that I have seen. Roger | ||
bauerhillboy |
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Joined: February 2004 Posts: 1634 Location: Warren,Pa. | Mineral oil is probably the "safest" thing to use since you know what it is by looking at the bottle. I've been using Yamaha fretboard oil for a long time on my ebony fretboards. It smells VERY lemony. Some "lemon oil" products I've tried in the past wound up containing ingredients I didn't want on my guitar. Some just smelled REALLY bad. I kept buying products that said "lemon oil" until I found the Yamaha stuff. I wound up throwing the previously purchased products away. John <>{ | ||
dragonboy |
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Joined: November 2005 Posts: 111 Location: Southern California | I just asked this question of the Mothership, and they recommend the mineral oil approach. I've researched the lemon oil thing, and the consensus is clear as mud. Everything from "it's the only way to go" to "never, ever do this to your guitar!". Hmmm. Nothing like clarity. Me, I'll listen to Mother. Always wear fresh underwear, don't run with scissors, and use mineral oil on your fingerboard. | ||
cruster |
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Joined: May 2004 Posts: 2850 Location: Midland, MI | Thanks for all the responses. Guess I'll have to go find some mineral oil. ;) | ||
Paul Blanchard |
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Joined: February 2002 Posts: 1817 Location: Minden, Nebraska | Run, hurry, hie thyself.... Ebony fretboards do dry and can crack, so applying the oil of choice needs to be done. | ||
an4340 |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389 Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | If you use mineral oil, the good thing is, in case you get constipated, you'll be ready. | ||
fillhixx |
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Joined: November 2005 Posts: 4809 Location: Campbell River, British Columbia | Is that what that stuff is for? Would that explain why my truck engine's been running so hot? | ||
cruster |
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Joined: May 2004 Posts: 2850 Location: Midland, MI | Originally posted by Paul Blanchard: I was told if I did that I'd go blind. :eek: ...hie thyself.... Ebony fretboards do dry and can crack, so applying the oil of choice needs to be done. It'll get done on Saturday. Hope it makes it until then. Doesn't appear to be dried out...yet. Thanks for the additional motorvation, though. | ||
an4340 |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389 Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | As far as I know, mineral oil is also used on chopping blocks and as a lubricant or emoliant. Phil Wong would know other uses. I think ... | ||
dragonboy |
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Joined: November 2005 Posts: 111 Location: Southern California | The Mothership sent me a follow up email about lemon oil: "Lemon oil is a solvent, and will actually dry out your fingerboard over time." FYI, on a related subject, they told me you need do nothing to a hand-rubbed neck (if that's what you have), it won't dry out. Waxing makes it a bit easier to play because it closes the pores in the wood, but the oils in your hand will accomplish the same thing over time. (Obviously, the more you play, the quicker this happens. ;) ) | ||
an4340 |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389 Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | MMmmh. That's an interesting tidbit about the back of the a hand rubbed neck. Thanks. | ||
Tony Calman |
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Joined: August 2003 Posts: 4619 Location: SoCal | ?? linseed oil ?? | ||
Standingovation |
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Joined: June 2002 Posts: 6191 Location: Phoenix AZ | Works well on my baseball glove. I wonder if there are different recommendations depending if you have ebony, walnut or rosewood FB. | ||
schroeder |
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Joined: November 2004 Posts: 4413 | "The Mothership sent me a follow up email about lemon oil: "Lemon oil is a solvent, and will actually dry out your fingerboard over time." You would think they would put that in the manual - or did I just miss it? | ||
Beachdog |
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Joined: February 2003 Posts: 17 Location: Western, North Carolina | I've used the "Miracle Polishing Cloth" to polish the frets and clean/oil ebony fret boards. As a plus, it will polish any abalone out crystal clear over time. | ||
Mitzdawg |
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Joined: July 2004 Posts: 766 Location: New Hampsha | A 12-piece bucket of the Colonel's finest will accomplish the same thing. Might need the 16-piece for a long-staff bass. Use a strap - they get kinda hard to hold! :D | ||
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