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Joined:
August 2007
Posts: 14
Location: Hannover | hi,
I just reanimated my 1251-6 from around mid-70s (brass bridge)
and tried to lower strings screwing down the bridge plate.
Now the single brigdes begin to loose contact to the bridge plate at the calibration screw side (the one that controls string length), so that the single bridge is touching the bridge plate just on one side (the one where the string is pressing it down to the plate)
changing the bridge angel screw from backside (in the battery moulde) doesn't help (my idea was lowering the bridge plates back would produce a sharper angle at the single bridges, no success)
Do I misunderstand the concept of this bridge unit?
Is this a common problem with calibrating Breadwinners?
Any hints how to avoid? |
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Joined:
December 2001
Posts: 7210
Location: The Great Pacific Northwest | You should be able to adjust the bridge angle so the "saddles" are held relatively secure. Chances are if you can drop the front of the bridge low enough then your neck angle may be wrong but that's pretty uncommon.
This would be easier to diagnos if we had some pictures. The Ovation bridge is one of the easiest to set up, and if it's not locking in in short order, there's usually something else in play. |
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Joined:
August 2007
Posts: 14
Location: Hannover | thanx for the quick reply.
what pictures could be helpfull?
I tried to make some, but unfortunately most of the bridge section is hidden under the black plastic cover.
as far as I can imagine either the black cover is lifting the saddle screws or the part of the bridge plate that holds the string ending and those screws, but I was not able to really locate it yet. |
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Joined:
February 2002
Posts: 5750
Location: Scotland | This may be a minor design fault. Later versions of this bridge had small bolts which secured the saddles from the underside, though the bridge base and into the base of the saddle. That said, I have guitars with and without the bolts and I haven't noticed this problem. As Miles said it could be a neck angle issue, but with the exception of Moody's Mongrel Viper I've never had to reset a neck angle on any Ovation solidbody. |
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Joined:
January 2003
Posts: 1498
Location: San Bernardino, California | The intonation screws are what's lifting the saddles.
What I do is enlarge the holes that the screws pass through (the ones in the brass plate and the nylon cover). A 7/64ths drill is usually enough.
I usually also file the bottom and sides of the saddles flat. |
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Joined:
December 2001
Posts: 7210
Location: The Great Pacific Northwest | Yeah, what BruDev said and some more... On occasion as the saddles are moved closer to the back of the bridge, they will lift a tad, but more often then not, just pushing them back down works just fine. Sometimes its a combination of the hole in the back being too snug, and the spring being too compressed. However, there should be enough tension from the strings to hold the saddles down. I can't tell in the picture if the strings are up to pitch, but that is what holds the saddles in place. |
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Joined:
August 2007
Posts: 14
Location: Hannover | thanx for your opinions. and helpfull check points.
@Paul
I wouldn't touch the neck right now, because all this would do is chanching the strings tension, which doesn't influence the saddles' misbehaviour. I tested going up to a pitch of G on the lower E string but the saddle didn't touch ground.
@BruDeV
drilling the holes to a slightly bigger diameter seems a good idea to me.
@Mr. Ovation
"pushing them back down" doesn't work here, they come up again next second. The point where the string is holding down the saddle is still ok, the problem is on the intonation screw side. And: yes strings are in tune on the pics. The springs are in easy action state, I can push them to any direction without brute force. |
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Joined:
April 2006
Posts: 1138
Location: CT | What they said. It looks like there's enough string tension to hold the string side of the brass sadle down - which is why it's tipped in that direction. Not enough tension to pull down the intonation screw though. Get out the power tools, and be carefull. |
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Joined:
December 2001
Posts: 7210
Location: The Great Pacific Northwest | Originally posted by frank p aus h:
thanx for your opinions. and helpfull check points.
@Paul
I wouldn't touch the neck right now, because all this would do is chanching the strings tension, which doesn't influence the saddles' misbehaviour. I tested going up to a pitch of G on the lower E string but the saddle didn't touch ground.
@BruDeV
drilling the holes to a slightly bigger diameter seems a good idea to me.
@Mr. Ovation
"pushing them back down" doesn't work here, they come up again next second. The point where the string is holding down the saddle is still ok, the problem is on the intonation screw side. And: yes strings are in tune on the pics. The springs are in easy action state, I can push them to any direction without brute force. Then it sounds like the BruDev cure will do it. I think when they plated the bases on these the inside of the hole got plated, or a different thickness or they switched the cutting bit or whatever. It's really such a slight difference, but if that shaft can't wiggle just a tiniest amount, well... you have the result. |
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Joined:
December 2007
Posts: 6
| frank p aus h
Did you ever fix this problem? I have owned my deacon for 33 years and have always had issues with the 2 high strings ringing true.
After not having played the guitar for many years, I decided to pull this heirloom out and start playing again. I paid to have the guitar gone over and have the nut replaced. When I got the guitar back, the high strings still didn't sound right. Upon investigation, I realized that I have exactly the same problem that you have. I took the bridge off and decided that enlarging the hole would solve the problem. I carefully enlarged the hole a little but this did not fully fix the issue. I was afraid of doing permanent damage to the bridge so I quit while I was ahead. The problem was never fully solved.
Now it is 2 years later and I once again would like to fix this guitar. I am tempted to take the bridge off and start drilling again but it seems so impure! I would even entertain changing out the bridge to something that would work if it was an OEM replacement (I would keep the original bridge intact and play with the aftermarket)
I need help with this problem. Help! Anyone!
Fitz |
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Breadwinner prob: calibrating bridge
