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June 2006
Posts: 7307
Location: South of most, North of few | I've been experimenting a lot lately with removing shims, adding shims, and whatnot. I have removed all the shims from the 1537 to lower the action and now it's nice and low, doesn't buzz in less you really hammer it, and sounds the same to me as when the shim(s) were in it. Of course, there is a small time lapse between the shim in and shim out testing, so I can't be sure. Is there really discernible difference, that is to an average (?) person as to break angle on the saddle, or do you have to be a "real musician" (half nuts) to tell the difference? |
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January 2005
Posts: 4903
Location: Phoenix AZ | Physics and common sense tells us that the sharper the break angle, the more down pressure on the saddle and hence more efficient vibration transfer to the top. Within small degrees (1-2 shims) I doubt you would hear anything. But taken to extreme (play a guitar with almost NO break angle) and you will definetly hear it. Or so they say.
Dave |
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November 2003
Posts: 11039
Location: Earth·SolarSystem·LocalInterstellarCloud·Local Bub | I had the action lowered by 1.5mm on my Reso and there is a definite difference in both tone and volume. |
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April 2006
Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | Unless the saddle is as sharp as a samurai sword,I doubt that it will matter much..but if you wanna be "picky" ,than different types of plectre on the other hand will make a Huge Difference,and Strings ....speaking of which,were n`t you supposed to be busy testing a bunch of (SIT ?) strings that you scored for cheap money some time ago ?... :)
Vic
..or was that someone else who`s got a " WASH ".. |
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Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 347
Location: Reno, NV | I can tell a difference after removing one shim on my Balladeer 1771LX. Going from 3 shims to 2. The sound is definitely "thinner". I like it less, but the action was just too high with 3 shims in. |
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Joined:
May 2005
Posts: 486
Location: North Carolina | I have achieved the perfect storm of saddle height and neck relief to give a strat like feel to my 1869. To get a bit more tone I went to medium gauge strings from lights. Unless you rely on a lot of string bending, you might want to take a look at this possible solution. |
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Joined:
June 2006
Posts: 7307
Location: South of most, North of few | Sorry Vic, Yes I finally did get the SIT strings and I can say I really like them. I took the D'Addario's off the 1537 after it came back home and installed a set of the Royal Bronze in 11's, and they really sound nice. I think they're a little brighter and sharper sounding, but then again, I never did like the D's. Another thing is they aren't as rough on the fingers as the D's are, kind of between the Elixirs and the D's. The instructions (who reads them?) said to tighten them slightly, pull on them to stretch them a little, and then tune them to pitch and they would stay tuned. By golly, they were right. Haven't had to re-tune it yet. They're as good a sounding string as I've tried, including Martin SP's and Elixir's. Now to see how long they last. |
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Joined:
January 2002
Posts: 14127
Location: 6 String Ranch | On a reso it will be much more noticable since it's driving the cones. Break angle on a wood top acoustic is real neglegable. You may hear more sound difference from the lower action but I doubt from the break angle.
Just an opinion from an old gas station guy. |
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Joined:
November 2005
Posts: 1126
Location: Omaha, NE | A lot of this depends on who you ask.
I don't think I am particularly sensitive to this sort of thing, but there are guys over on the acoustic guitar forum who (claim they) can hear EVERYTHING. |
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Joined:
February 2002
Posts: 5750
Location: Scotland | As Dave said, physics dictates that a more acute break angle will apply more torque to the top. Whether slight differences in break angle are discernable to the average ear is open to debate. The really crucial thing about break angle is that in a new guitar you need to see a "medium" action (i.e. not too low, not too high) coupled with a healthy break angle. That way you have scope to adjust the action lower, either to your personal preference, or as the guitars geometry changes as it ages, and still retain a reasonable break angle. It's amazing how many new acoustic guitars you see in stores (especially Gibsons) which have no leeway to lower the action without a neck reset. |
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OK, that break angle thing again...
