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Adamas II 1581 Rebuild
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seesquare |
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Joined: November 2002 Posts: 3611 Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Just a thought- can you get a piece of the trim digitized, then have a 3D printer replicate some trim for you? Dan Savage seems to be a real wizard with that kind of thing. | ||
Oldvation Guy |
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Joined: May 2011 Posts: 81 Location: Ozark, Arkansa | If I was missing sections that would be a great idea. I almost had an access cover made for the back that way, and then found out that Alex Pepiak had some stashed away. I bought one from him. No, there are only a couple of cracks and a few small chips broken out of the trim ring. This thing is astonishingly strong considering the beating it took. So I will use my magic Dremel wand, and body filler to fill a few spots and then re-form those spots. In order to get the filled spots to stay in place, I plan to drill some tiny holes and channels with a diamond cutter bit. I am afraid if I just go surface with the repairs they won't last. Think tooth roots, and then you have the idea. Thanks for the suggestion though, seesquare! | ||
seesquare |
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Joined: November 2002 Posts: 3611 Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | OMG, root canal! OK Doc, do what ya gotta do. Sounds like a better idea for stabilizing the crack. And, with a Dremel tool. You do have the hands of a surgeon. | ||
Oldvation Guy |
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Joined: May 2011 Posts: 81 Location: Ozark, Arkansa | Here is the next hurdle in the project, repairing the decorative trim ring. For as much damage as the bowl sustained, the decorative trim damage was very minimal. That said, I had to rebuild the actual suspension ring ledge with fiberglass at each of these damage locations as well, but that is water under the bridge. I tried filling the damage spots, but was not impressed with what would be the final result. Not much to adhere to. So I will use the Dremel with a diamond bit to hollow out the spots, in other words make the damage worse, to have a little more to hold the repairs in place. (IMG_1980.jpg) (IMG_1981.jpg) (IMG_1982.jpg) (IMG_1983.jpg) (IMG_1984.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_1980.jpg (75KB - 0 downloads) IMG_1981.jpg (88KB - 0 downloads) IMG_1982.jpg (78KB - 0 downloads) IMG_1983.jpg (87KB - 0 downloads) IMG_1984.jpg (76KB - 1 downloads) | ||
Oldvation Guy |
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Joined: May 2011 Posts: 81 Location: Ozark, Arkansa | Well, this is going better than expected, except I didn't have the diamond cutter I thought was in my box. But two other cutters worked. I created cavities in the trim that I could fill with SteelStik, an epoxy putty that gets very hard. When it came to recreating the missing dimples in the trim, I found a tiny hollow plastic tube exactly the right size. The dimples will be close enough for me, and far better than leaving the broken pieces vacant. Now to let it all cure. (IMG_1988.jpg) (IMG_1989.jpg) (IMG_1992.jpg) (IMG_1996.jpg) (IMG_1991.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_1988.jpg (98KB - 0 downloads) IMG_1989.jpg (86KB - 0 downloads) IMG_1992.jpg (72KB - 1 downloads) IMG_1996.jpg (91KB - 0 downloads) IMG_1991.jpg (82KB - 1 downloads) | ||
DetlefMichel |
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Joined: May 2011 Posts: 755 Location: Muenster/Germany | Great improvisation! Noone will notice that later. | ||
Oldvation Guy |
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Joined: May 2011 Posts: 81 Location: Ozark, Arkansa | While I am working on the trim ring repair, I decided to work on the top modification at the same time. Way back in the project I bought an Adamas top for it. But It was a full top, not cutaway. You can go back to look at the pics of the cutaway modification. Today I added a very thin layer of resin and sheer fabric behind the carbon fiber inserts in what remained of the sound holes in the top. I had more than enough material from the part of the top I removed to make the plugs. I wanted to keep the reinforcing layer as thin as possible, again to keep acoustic distortion of the top to a minimum, but also to allow the fabric to overlap the suspension ring contact area with the top. I did some preliminary sanding of the top in the treble quadrant, and sprayed some high build primer to fill the imperfections. More sanding, and more spraying yet to some to get it level. Then I will use a thin layer of epoxy black paint to create the pick guard area of the top. The project is called Phoenix, and the Phoenix decal will go in the pick guard area, and be covered with a thin coat of poly. (IMG_1999_01.jpg) (IMG_2005.jpg) (IMG_2007.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_1999_01.jpg (95KB - 0 downloads) IMG_2005.jpg (48KB - 0 downloads) IMG_2007.jpg (92KB - 1 downloads) | ||
Oldvation Guy |
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Joined: May 2011 Posts: 81 Location: Ozark, Arkansa | First coat of black epoxy is on. Sure makes me long for a spray booth. Even after prepping the surface I still ended up with dust specs and a tiny bit of lint from the unfiltered air. Oh, well. It is just for me, not a professional job. Even with two coats of epoxy enamel, the pick guard area will still only be a few thousandths thick. Much better than applying an adhesive pick guard. The backing of resin and sheer fabric worked perfectly under this area of the top. The Phoenix firebird decal will go on this epoxied surface, and then have a thin coat of poly to protect it. I am thinking I might use a satin finish poly to minimize the appearance of surface deformities. Edited by Oldvation Guy 2020-05-14 6:44 AM (IMG_2011.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_2011.jpg (66KB - 1 downloads) | ||
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