Moustache binding is scraped. Side binding with side-marker dots is glued and scraped.

Next job is to fix the dings in the neck, then polish it. I'm polishing the neck before I install the frets because it'll be easier to mask the fret board before the frets are installed.

Fixing the dings on the neck required that I fill a ding with epoxy, then set the neck aside for 24 hours while the glue cures. That left a lot of down time.

So, I decided to start cutting out the pieces of shell needed for the rosette. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to buy any black MOP shell feathers. White MOP? Sure. Abalone? Yep. But no one sells black MOP shell feathers.

So, I had to make do with shell veneer, or shell paper. (See: Black MOP Veneer)

First three pieces cut.

Half way done.

This shot reveals a little of the shell iridescence.

All the pieces are cut. You're seeing gaps because the loose pieces are just sitting in the groove in the back of the rosette.

More iridescence.

While I was working on these, I was also sanding the dings on the neck. At this point, all of the dings are fixed and I've polished the neck. It's ready for frets, which I'll be doing next.

After that, it's time to get back to the body and sand/polish the top.

Neck is done. The photo below is missing the nut, but I added it after the photo was taken.

It's time to get back to the body. First job there is to level and polish the top.

Mostly I use Stewmac's Deadblow Fretting Hammer.

I also run a bead of Titebond carpenter's glue in the slot before hammering the frets down.

Top and binding are polished.

Bowl is textured. It's not done using the same technique as the factory, but it is a reasonable facsimile.