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The Black Pearl...

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DarenSavage
Posted 2019-09-16 9:45 PM (#549837 - in reply to #549814)
Subject: RE: The Black Pearl...


Joined:
December 2016
Posts: 106

First coat of clear is on the top.


Beautiful! I can't wait to see the rest.
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DanSavage
Posted 2019-09-17 12:52 AM (#549839 - in reply to #549832)
Subject: Re: The Black Pearl...



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 1988

Location: Lake Forest, CA
d'ovation - 2019-09-16 8:42 AM

The bowl history is very interesting. I wonder how this has continued into the more recent times. For example, I have an 1687 RI but assume that it has a SMC bowl and not the period-correct second generation cloth, the paint has come off in places and it is bright white below. Also, I assume that with the overseas AX models their bowls are made right there in China or Korea. Then with the most recent New Hartford/new small shop Adamas they state hand-laid bowl as a feature, and it would be good to know more details about the process they are using now.


The difference between a cloth bowl and an SMC bow is easy to spot. The SMC bowls have the characteristic molded webbing around the neck/body joint. Hand-laid cloth bowls will have a wood neck block.

My 50th Anniversary CL has a cloth bowl and wood neck block. The neck is a bolt-on joint.
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DanSavage
Posted 2019-09-17 12:56 AM (#549840 - in reply to #549837)
Subject: RE: The Black Pearl...



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 1988

Location: Lake Forest, CA
DarenSavage - 2019-09-16 7:45 PM

Beautiful! I can't wait to see the rest.


Thanks, bra.

Me, too.
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clrules
Posted 2019-09-18 8:42 AM (#549847 - in reply to #549601)
Subject: Re: The Black Pearl...


Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 102

Location: Birmingham, AL
Dan, are you still using the same lacquer/finish on this top as the other ones? BTW really looks nice. I appreciate the efforts of rebuilding Ovations. I have always played O's and have for 43 years.
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DanSavage
Posted 2019-09-18 9:33 AM (#549849 - in reply to #549601)
Subject: Re: The Black Pearl...



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 1988

Location: Lake Forest, CA
I've gone back and forth on the finish between Minwax Polyurethane rattle can and Eastwood 2K Urethane rattle can.

I experimented on different rebuilds. Some, like my Frankenvation, I used only Minwax.

On others, such as Jen's 1613, I used the Minwax poly as a primer/grain filler, then topped it off with Eastwood 2K.

Lately, I've found I like using the Eastwood 2K as the sole finish, mainly because of how quickly the finish 'builds.'

One thing I do like about the Minwax is that it will harden up and shrink over a few months time and is a lot like a thin lacquer finish.

Edited by DanSavage 2019-09-18 9:36 AM
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DanSavage
Posted 2019-09-18 7:57 PM (#549857 - in reply to #549601)
Subject: RE: The Black Pearl...



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 1988

Location: Lake Forest, CA

Clear coats are done. I'll set the bowl aside for a couple of weeks and concentrate on the neck.

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DanSavage
Posted 2019-09-19 9:17 PM (#549863 - in reply to #549601)
Subject: RE: The Black Pearl...



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 1988

Location: Lake Forest, CA

First job is to remove the frets. Plenty of heat ensured easy removal with no chip-out.

Next, remove the white binding. I did damage the finish slightly during the process, but it will be invisible once it's done.



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DarenSavage
Posted 2019-09-20 1:00 AM (#549865 - in reply to #549863)
Subject: RE: The Black Pearl...


Joined:
December 2016
Posts: 106

DanSavage - 2019-09-19 9:17 PM

First job is to remove the frets. Plenty of heat ensured easy removal with no chip-out.

Next, remove the white binding. I did damage the finish slightly during the process, but it will be invisible once it's done.




Kewl. This is the part of the build I've been looking forward to. Buckle your seatbelts everyone!
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DanSavage
Posted 2019-09-20 9:54 AM (#549868 - in reply to #549865)
Subject: RE: The Black Pearl...



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 1988

Location: Lake Forest, CA
DarenSavage - 2019-09-19 11:00 PM

Kewl. This is the part of the build I've been looking forward to. Buckle your seatbelts everyone!


Yes, this job is definitely the interesting part of this build.

I finally received my shell order from down under. The dots and diamonds will probably work okay. The squares are a little small for the job. I may have to make my own.

I'll post some pics a little later today.
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DanSavage
Posted 2019-09-21 9:22 AM (#549874 - in reply to #549601)
Subject: RE: The Black Pearl...



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 1988

Location: Lake Forest, CA


I decided to conduct some tests on removing the fret board inlays. I have a junky Balladeer of very early vintage, whose neck is thoroughly thrashed -- IOW, a perfect medium for testing.

Knowing that Ovation highly favors the use of epoxy, it occurred to me that the fret board inlays were probably glued using epoxy. The normal process for removing an inlay is to route out the center, then use a chisel, etc., to separate the shell from the fret board. I've seen a Stewmac demonstrating this on a Martin D-45. I thought that would be pretty difficult on these inlays.

Instead, I thought I'd drill out the center of the inlay using a Forstner bit, then heat up area using one of my small modeling irons to soften the epoxy, then gently pry out the inlay using an Xacto knife.

In this photo I've already removed one of the inlays at the 12th fret.



Hole is being drilled in the other 12th fret inlay. Sorry about the lighting. MOP is really difficult to photograph.



Hole is drilled until I just touch the ebony.



Heat being applied. This is the smaller of the two irons. I found that the larger one works better as it doesn't lose heat as fast as the smaller one.



Inlay being pried out.



Part of the inlay broke. You can see the thin layer of glue holding the inlay into place.



Final result: a nice clean hole ready to receive a new inlay. I had done four of the inlays on this fret board. By this time, I was comfortable enough to move onto the CL neck.



First job was to remove the dots. The CL dots are smaller than the Balladeer dots, so I had to be extra careful to drill them as close to center as I could. Abalone is softer than white MOP, so when the drill broke through to the ebony most of the dot crumbled leaving behind a clean hole.



First diamond. It, too, came out cleanly.



Holes drilled in all the diamonds and squares.



And, all the inlays are out. To be honest, I was more than a little nervous about this step, but it wasn't too bad. It only took me about 90 minutes to get all the inlays out cleanly.



Nice clean holes with no chip-out of the ebony. Ready for the new inlays. One thing I noticed was that some of the inlay holes are deeper than the back MOP replacements. The inlays will need to stand slightly proud of the fret board so they can be sanded level. I'll buy some ebony veneer from Rockler's to make spacers under the inlays.



Most of the old inlays came out in one piece.



New inlays are set into place so I can decide which one goes where. I'm really digging the look of the new inlay pieces. These are only available with the notches cut into them. I wasn't sure whether I would like them, but after seeing them all together in the fret board, I've decided that I do like them.

The black MOP pieces seem to have a darker side and a brighter side. I'm kind of leaning toward the brighter side. The diamonds are a little bit different shape than the old diamonds, so I'll need to sand them a little bit so they fit into the holes.










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moody, p.i.
Posted 2019-09-21 4:57 PM (#549877 - in reply to #549601)
Subject: Re: The Black Pearl...


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15301

Location: SoCal
Cool. Never seen this done before.....
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DanSavage
Posted 2019-09-21 6:03 PM (#549878 - in reply to #549601)
Subject: RE: The Black Pearl...



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 1988

Location: Lake Forest, CA

After looking at the inlays with the light side out I decided to flip them all over to see what the fret board would look like with the dark side out.

I also sanded the diamonds to fit into the holes and spaced out under the inlays where necessary so they all stand slightly proud of the surface. I was going to buy some ebony veneer, but at $32 a pop, it's a little too rich for my blood. I only needed about 2 square inches. So, I used 1/64" plywood that I dyed black using a sharpie.



One of the things I like about the light side out is that the inlays really stand out against the ebony. What I didn't like was they really stand out against the ebony. They reminded me of white MOP, not black MOP. Plus it had a blue tint that clashed with the color of the walnut on the head stock.

The dark side out is a lot more muted, which is what I liked about the black MOP purfling in the first place. You can still see the iridescence of the inlays, but you have to be at the right angle.

There are a couple of dots, such as the two at the 12th and 15th frets that are slightly mis-matched in color, so I'll see if I can find something a little closer. Once that's done, it'll be time to glue the inlays.



Edited by DanSavage 2019-09-21 6:06 PM
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moody, p.i.
Posted 2019-09-21 7:27 PM (#549880 - in reply to #549601)
Subject: Re: The Black Pearl...


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15301

Location: SoCal
I would vote for lighter side out. YMMV.....
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2wheeldrummer
Posted 2019-09-21 8:13 PM (#549881 - in reply to #549601)
Subject: Re: The Black Pearl...



Joined:
February 2014
Posts: 490

Location: moline,illinois
Very Very cool work Dan!!!
The lighting in the first picture looks brighter so to me in the second pic the inlays don't really show up well,personally I agree with Moody the lighter side really pops but if you want understated then the dark side will accomplish that,Has Dr. Savage gone over to the Dark Side
Was the ebony Veneer to fill the holes so the inlays stood higher??

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arumako
Posted 2019-09-21 11:47 PM (#549882 - in reply to #549601)
Subject: Re: The Black Pearl...



Joined:
October 2012
Posts: 871

Location: Yokohama, Japan
SWEET!
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DarenSavage
Posted 2019-09-21 11:50 PM (#549883 - in reply to #549601)
Subject: Re: The Black Pearl...


Joined:
December 2016
Posts: 106

My vote is dark side out. I think it will work very well with the perfling and the Black Pearl theme. Honestly, either way it will be a beautiful guitar.

Edited by DarenSavage 2019-09-21 11:51 PM
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DanSavage
Posted 2019-09-22 11:24 AM (#549886 - in reply to #549881)
Subject: Re: The Black Pearl...



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 1988

Location: Lake Forest, CA
2wheeldrummer - 2019-09-21 6:13 PM

Was the ebony Veneer to fill the holes so the inlays stood higher??



Yes. Some of the original inlays were quite a bit thicker than others, such as the squares at the 5th and 7th frets. All of the round inlays also needed quite a few spacers.
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DanSavage
Posted 2019-09-22 11:33 AM (#549887 - in reply to #549883)
Subject: Re: The Black Pearl...



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 1988

Location: Lake Forest, CA
DarenSavage - 2019-09-21 9:50 PM

My vote is dark side out. I think it will work very well with the perfling and the Black Pearl theme. Honestly, either way it will be a beautiful guitar.


I'm also leaning toward the dark side out. Like I say, the light side looks too much like white MOP. It really pops, but doesn't fit with the theme of the guitar.

I came to within a hair's breadth of leaving the old abalone inlays in place because I really didn't want to try to route and chisel them out. Now, of course, I'm really happy I removed them. I was relieved to find that the combination of drilling the center, then heating the epoxy made the removal quick and easy.

I ordered more inlay pieces than I needed because I figured there would be a fair amount of variation in the coloring. And, I was right. Now I wish I'd ordered even more because some of the pieces had absolutely no iridescence at all on the darker side.

I've got the best combination I can make with the inlays I bought, so I'll be gluing the inlays down today.

After that, I'll glue the new binding in place and sand/level the fret board, inlays and binding. Then, it'll be time for new frets. Yay!

Edited by DanSavage 2019-09-22 11:33 AM
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