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1990 Elite 1868 Project

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DanSavage
Posted 2017-05-03 7:49 PM (#535047 - in reply to #535043)
Subject: RE: 1990 Elite 1868 Project



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 1610

Location: Lake Forest, CA

arumako - 2017-05-03 4:42 PM

Oops, I looked back through the archives and it was your '78 1617 Legend Rebuild from 1.5 years ago. Man, this site is just filled with useful inspiring information for anybody who wants to take a shot at guitar repairs or builds! That was also sanded to the standard 10", I think.. I was thinking about this pic, remember that?



I see something like this and in my naivity, I think...who needs oil! Look at that thing shine. Right now, after going up to 1000 grit, my fret board looks like this too. But then no fret board on a guitar that's being used ever looks this clean!



Yep. I remember it well. I think I took it down to 800 grit. This looks really nice from a shallow angle like what's seen in the photo. But, when viewed straight on, it looks dry. The oil gives the bare wood a rich, lustrous look.

arumako - 2017-05-03 4:42 PM

Cool. thanks for the useful links Dan. Those are really cool tools. Always been using my trusty standard refret saw, but that thing is perfect! I've got a friends Yamaha that needs a fret job, but it has binding, and I was wondering how I'll ever really get the fret slots clean. I don't think I've ever seen this tool in any of your projects...maybe I just missed it! Gotta use the right tools to get optimum results! Gonna get me one of these today...kinda obvious question, but you never know...so, I'm guessing fret tang size determines the tool size?




No, you're correct. I've never posted pics of these tools.

I don't use the refret saw all that much. I do use the fret slot cleaning tool, though. The hooked shape works really well for getting into the corners next to the binding. Given the choice, I'd pick the fret slot cleaning tool over the refret saw. Like I say, I hardly use the saw.

I'll drag the tool until the tip reaches the corner, then rock (roll?) it to let the tip lift the gunk out of the slot.

Nah, the fret cleaning tool is narrow enough to fit inside the Ovation fret slots. Since these are pretty much the only guitars I work on, that's all I care about.

Also, when preparing the new frets, I remove enough of the fret tang so that it doesn't interfere with the binding as I'm installing the frets.

Another tool I've used on every refret job is Stewmac's Fret Tang Nipper. This tool is worth every penny.

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arumako
Posted 2017-05-04 10:53 AM (#535054 - in reply to #500953)
Subject: RE: 1990 Elite 1868 Project



Joined:
October 2012
Posts: 652

Location: Yokohama, Japan

Thanks again for all the helpful tips Dan. Decided to give the project a few more hours and made some huge progress today. Started off with the easy stuff by filling the fret marker holes. I tried using my inlay filler, but it's a bit old and was not usable; so, I opted to use some automotive touch up paint. I had flat black available and its viscous enough to fill the gaps well and hardens pretty well because its polyurethane. Just put enough paint on the end of a toothpick to create a droplet, when the hole touches the paint it just sucks the paint in. Repeat until a bead shows up like so...

droplet

Then just sand it down. The flat black paint color was just a bit off...oh well, I don't think it will be too noticeable.

filled

I also began my binding installation. Had to approach this a bit differently. Used a hair dryer to bend the plastic binding into general shape then the outter binding was CA'd to the bowl.

outter binding

Then I inserted the rest of the binding/purfling in between...this is just a dry run...

binding dry run

Settled on a white black/white/black and gold (brass) trim...

trim

Unfortunately, there are some big gaps between the binding and the edge of the sound board...

gap

The sound board must have been just a tad bit off when I Hysoled the top back on to the bowl! Think I'm gonna need some pigmented wood filler to fill the gaps...oh well. Feels good to make some progress anyway. Gettin' closer!

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DanSavage
Posted 2017-05-05 12:26 AM (#535063 - in reply to #500953)
Subject: Re: 1990 Elite 1868 Project



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 1610

Location: Lake Forest, CA
Nice job on the filling of the gaps on the inlays of the fretboard.

If you haven't already glued the purfling, I'd add another thin strip to fill the gaps.

When I glue the binding and purfling, it's done at the same time to minimize the gaps.

The exception was the abalone purfling on the 1528. That demanded the purfling be glued first, then the binding outside of that in a separate step.

How are you planning to get the brass strip level with the sound board? Are you going to use a dremel, cabinet scraper, sandpaper?

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Love O Fair
Posted 2017-05-05 11:34 AM (#535067 - in reply to #500953)
Subject: Re: 1990 Elite 1868 Project



Joined:
February 2016
Posts: 478

Location: Spin axis of a California map
Arumako.. taking nice shape and no doubt going to be beautiful in the end. If I were trying to do that detail work with my goat hoof hands the gaps would have been big enough to make a whole other sound hole!

Edited by Love O Fair 2017-05-05 11:36 AM
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