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October 2013
Posts: 57
| Had a big deception today, months after getting my guitar I bought an amp only to find out that the electronics on my Ovation don't work.
All I get is cracking sounds when the cable moves. I opened it up and the problem seems to be with the output board. I don't know if it's just the jack or the entire board but when I plugged while holding it and when I move it around I get those cracking sounds and, sometimes, actual sounds from the guitar.
My guitar a 1597, I believe the pre-amp is a OP-50 and the part number to be 708900-X. So I am wondering if the current model OP-50 will fit my guitar. And does the pre-amp assembly include the output board ?
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September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | If you find an OP-50 it should be the same as any OP-50.
What I mean is, an OP-50 is an OP-50.
I don't believe that there are newer models...
They just moved on to the OP-Pro series.
So... You should contact the MotherShip immediately.
(askus@ovationguitars.com or 800-552-4681)
Maybe they might have one... but you better be quick.
If not you will be searching eBay.
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Joined:
October 2013
Posts: 57
| I thought the model had changed over the years because the op50 I see on Ovation's web site doesn't look at all like the one on my guitar |
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Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Okay.... go to Ovation Tribute HERE to find your preamp.
Then someone may be able to help you.
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February 2014
Posts: 699
Location: moline,illinois | What year/model is your 1597?I have an Adamas 1597 from 2003 that has what I think they call optima or OP X |
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Joined:
October 2013
Posts: 57
| Acording to serial number it was made in 1999. I used this pdf to identify the preamp.
http://ne1.wpc.edgecastcdn.net/00077D/ovation/support/Ovation%20Par...
It says the 1597 has an op50, that's why I thought they kept the model numbers over the years. I checked the images on Ovation Tribute and none of them matches my preamp eactly. Mine looks like the Optima but it's black and the EQ has 6 sliders. I will post some pictures latet
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Joined:
October 2013
Posts: 57
| Too late to edit my previous post. I don't know what was wrong with my eyes earlier but my preamp's EQ has 4 sliders, not 6. So it's an Optima. |
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Joined:
October 2013
Posts: 57
| Now that the panic is over :D
I worked on the problem a bit. I am not the first one to work on this output jack, there's clear marks on the metal plates that they were bent and pushed in with something pointy. I was able to "reshape" them and now I get sound so that's good news.
I still get all those crack sounds when the cable moves though and it looks like the jack has started to split apart. Here's a quick video I made to show this.
https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=162b8ad1a64c0068&id=162B8AD1A64C0068%...
We can see when I flip the board over that the welds are not loose but the connector itself "rattles". I wonder if I could reinforce it by gluing the rear and front parts together (the portion I circled in red). I suppose a different cable could help too, this one has a long connector and it pries the jack around. I guess a 90 degrees plug would be more stable.
Last resort would be to replace the output board entirely or the 1/4" jack on this one if I can find either.
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October 2013
Posts: 57
| I know I'm posting a lot this morning but I figure maybe this could help someone in the future.
I put everything back together and guess what.................no sound again. So I reached inside, started rattling the wires and it turns out I have second problem.
The green wire of the flat cable that goes from the output board to the preamp is loose on the preamp side. I pushed it inside and now I have constant sound but I will need to find permanent fix. I tried to take the preamp assembly out but I can't figure out how it's attached to the body.
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January 2009
Posts: 1249
Location: Texas | Everything Fender touches... |
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December 2004
Posts: 554
Location: Denmark | If the problem is the ribbon cable terminations try looking for cold solderings of the connector to the output PCB. I suppose one way to handle a bad connector would be to cut the connector from the cable and use solder the wires directly onto the PCB mounted connector pins. If the bad spot is at the preamp end you can look for cold solderings or do the modification in that end instead.
This requires the preamp being removed in the first place. Optima removal witchcraft is explained here:
http://ovationfanclub.com/megabbs/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=416
The preamp is connected electrically to (a) the output pcb (b) the pickup (c) the battery compartment.
You could also test a XLR cable if you suspect the problems relate to 1/4" Jack.
Edited by tpa 2014-05-19 1:23 PM
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Joined:
October 2013
Posts: 57
| Thanks for the link to the thread about removing the optima tpa. That's what I was looking for. Like I said, the problem with the flat cable is at the preamp end. As for the 1/4" jack, I spent hours on internet yesterday searching for a replacement but could not not find anything similar.
I don't know much about XLR jacks and cables. Can I use one with a 1/4" jack at the other end and plug it in any regular amp ? |
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December 2004
Posts: 554
Location: Denmark | I have no personal experience with the XLR but look here: http://ovationfanclub.com/megabbs/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=3631 to find some wise words about it. Looking at your video I will say that even if the jack seems to move a bit it was not designed to take that kind of load. The jack has its nut securing it to the bowl in order to avoid exactly what you do manually in the movie. Neither the plastic not the metal parts not the solderings like that. While you have the output print visible check for bad solderings. Also if the battery is low unstable operation will result. The plastic brackets used to secure the ribbon cable can get loose and the rattling around of the internal wiring is probably quite normal. Many people replace these wire securing plastic brackets or re-glue them in place. |
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Will today's OP-50 fit in place of my old one ?
