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March 2007
Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | Rescued a basic-quality classical from a neighbours shed. Had an interesting looking bridge/saddle setup, saddle made of black fibrous material, which was too thin for the bridge slot so it sloped toward the soundhole. Put in a white plastic saddle, still a bit thin but height is good, will make a better-fitting saddle when I get the time. Fitted hard-tension nylons and she plays fine, intonation pretty good. Fitted strap buttons.
Fretboard is starting to split from neck in places (just enough to slide a sheet of paper, and leaves a sharp edge which is uncomfortable for the fingers). Fretboard profile seems good, so clamping and gluing it might upset it. Was thinking of just filling the split, maybe with epoxy what do you think? Possibly leave it a few weeks to adapt from damp shed to dry house?
Edited by sycamore 2014-03-26 5:35 AM
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May 2006
Posts: 4221
Location: Steeler Nation, Hudson Valley Contingent | Must.....have.....pictures..... |
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April 2003
Posts: 608
Location: Caribou, ME | Only a sheet of paper? Might as well glue it back where it should be. Titebond makes a super glue specifically for wood and I can attest that it works wonderful on 'quickie' stuff like this. |
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Joined:
March 2007
Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | Took some photos but the gap too small to see, will try again later. Seems to be getting smaller actually. |
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Joined:
March 2007
Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | Is it Titebond 'Liquid Hide Glue'? Do I need a water soluble glue? |
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December 2003
Posts: 13983
Location: Upper Left USA | Humidity might be the answer. Tight bond water soluble sounds correct. |
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Joined:
March 2007
Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | Well I got in as much wood glue as I could, gave it a squeeze with vice and clamps, will continue to squeeze for 24 hrs or so. |
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Joined:
March 2007
Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | Glue job went OK, might smooth it off with a bit of wood filler.
OK next question. The fretboard seems to be some sort of pale coloured hardwood with a dark stain which has worn away. I was thinking of (a) re-staining it or (b) seeing what the natural colour is like. Would I need to seal the wood in either case? |
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Joined:
March 2007
Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | Thought you might be interested in my findings re staining the fretboard. Stewmac sells a product for blackening fretboards which is actually a leather dye. I bought a similar product locally (ie. black alcohol-based dye) and it worked pretty well. Might be worth trying if you have a similar project but maybe not on a quality instrument.
Edited by sycamore 2015-02-12 8:52 AM
 (Fretboard Dye 1.jpg)
 (Fretboard Dye 2.jpg)
Attachments
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 Fretboard Dye 1.jpg (96KB - 0 downloads)
Fretboard Dye 2.jpg (94KB - 0 downloads)
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January 2009
Posts: 1249
Location: Texas | I was going to say that this stuff is great...but too late. |
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Joined:
March 2007
Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | Thanks for that. The cynic in me suspects that many products sold as wood dye, fretboard stain leather dye etc are the same i.e. some coloured stuff dissolved in alcohol but I'd probably use the proper stuff if working on a better guitar.
Edited by sycamore 2015-02-12 11:03 AM
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June 2012
Posts: 2303
Location: Lake Forest, CA | The 'colored' stuff is simply artists dry pigment. Wonderful product. It's inert so it can be freely used in all kinds of glues, solvents, etc. I've used it to color epoxy resin, lacquer, etc. (except CA, of course.)
Edited by DanSavage 2015-02-12 1:02 PM
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Non-0vation Classical Rescue Project
