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Joined:
August 2008
Posts: 90
Location: los angeles | Seemed like my action was way too high on my 1778LX after adding a GC178LX to my stable. I had previously removed a shim after I got the guitar. I thought that was the only one. So here I am trying to get the truss rod to turn and it was already at its limit. Cut to yesterday, I took up the saddle, and there I found 2 shims attached to the bottom of it. Now, why didn't I see those before? Took off another shim, now it's really playable for me. :D
Now, has anyone here removed ALL of the shims (I left one on) and found the guitar to not buzz? I may be interested in doing that but I seem to remember reading in this forum that a removal of all of the shims would be too much. :confused: Input:? Thanks. Bob |
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Joined:
December 2003
Posts: 1071
Location: Carle Place, NY | All shims can be removed if necessary to get the action down. |
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May 2008
Posts: 1553
Location: Indiana | It varies from guitar to guitar.
The Mothership has routed the slots differently through the years. I have one where the slot is cut out all the way to the top material. The others slots stop inside the bridge material... but as I said, the depth varies.
At least in my stable, the number of shims needed to achieve "my" action, is different from guitar to guitar. |
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July 2003
Posts: 3111
Location: Nashville TN. | I have sometimes its ok
but it caries. |
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Joined:
August 2008
Posts: 90
Location: los angeles | Well, last night I removed the remaining shim - buzzed like crazy. Shim went back in. Everything is good. All it cost me was a set of strings. Thanks MitchRx, JS, and PEZ.
Bob |
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Joined:
March 2008
Posts: 2683
Location: Hot Springs, S.D. | Enders, you don't have to take the strings all the way off! Just loosen them enough so that you can pull the saddle out. If the strings are loose enough so that you can lift them with your hand and they are not touching the saddle, grab the saddle with a pair of needlenose and pull up, and across. |
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Joined:
August 2008
Posts: 90
Location: los angeles | Thanks Canterbury. Problem for me is in stringing, I did not leave sufficient room for loosening. So I had to take them off from the tuners. When I re-inserted them into the tuners, two broke. They were also already sending dull, so it was time for a change. I bought a bulk pack of D'Addarios so it really wasn't much of a loss. The new ones sound fresh and great. I guess string-winding is another "not my forte". :eek: Bob |
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Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Hey Bob... I often have the same problem of not having enough 'slack' to really lift a bridge. But if you are putting a shim Back under there, you only have to lift the saddle up enough to slide the shim under. Getting them Out is another thing.
I know you know how to change strings, so do I. But I still got a few pointers on choosing where to trim the strings from this video. |
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Joined:
August 2008
Posts: 90
Location: los angeles | OMA, that was a new one for me - pre-cutting the strings. :) Kinda eliminates the guess-work. Now, if I had that tool! Thank you. Bob |
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Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | This tool?
Or better yet.. This One for $20 plus shipping...
Or this one for $2 at you local shop or Target...
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Joined:
August 2008
Posts: 90
Location: los angeles | Yep. That one! |
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Joined:
October 2005
Posts: 4026
Location: Utah | Originally posted by enders UKII:
So here I am trying to get the truss rod to turn and it was already at its limit. Bob, your truss rod really shouldn't have to get to the limit.
A good setup starts at the nut and ends at the bridge.
First, are the nut slots at or near the correct depth? Fret between the 2nd and 3rd fret, then look to see how much space there is between the first fret and the strings. It should be a very small gap, barely visible. If you strum hard you want more space, if you like a low fast action like an electric guitar then the gap should be nearly zero. For general use I would describe the space as visible only from up close and you can feel it if you tap the string. Somewhere I recall reading that .010" is typical if you have a feeler gauge. No gap at all will cause fret buzz on open strings, too much gap makes it difficult to play in the first few frets, especially barre chords. Too high also hurts intonation.
Most guitars come from the factory with the strings a bit too high at the nut.
Next, adjust the truss rod. Fret or capo at the 1st and 13th frets simultaneously. Now look at the gap between the 6th fret and the bottom of the strings. Again, this should be a barely perceptible gap. More if you are a hard strummer, nearly zero if you want to play fast single notes.
Finally, adjust the height of the bridge. I like to lower mine until I get no buzz with simple strumming, but with hard strumming their might be some buzz. Also, when playing single notes up above the 14th fret there should be no pinching off of the note or restriction on the sustain of the note. |
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Joined:
August 2008
Posts: 90
Location: los angeles | FS, thanks. The truss rod was already at the limit when I purchased the git. Sounds like a good set-up is in order. :) Bob |
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Shims Doh!
