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Posts: 494
Location: Location Location Location | My '81 Balladeer needs a bit more relief in the neck. I could use a bit of help. What type of wrench do I need? No truss rod cover. Am I going clockwise or counter clockwise for more relief?
Thanks in advance. |
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February 2009
Posts: 262
Location: VENISE-EN-QUEBEC CANADA | how did you come up with it need's relief were did you mesure im curiouse,I would like to no so I can mesure my guitar
thank's
Daniel |
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August 2007
Posts: 494
Location: Location Location Location | Daniel, at this point I can pretty much eyeball it; combined with the fact that it starts buzzing in certain areas when the neck is too flat. Press down on the first fret and the 14th fret. At the mid point fret between the 1st and 14th fret is where you measure the relief. There should be between .010" and .025" space between the string and the fret at that mid point. .010" would allow you to slide a high 'E' string between the string and the top of the fret. If it's .025", then you could slide a 'G' string in there. But the final determination should be how the guitar sounds. |
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Posts: 262
Location: VENISE-EN-QUEBEC CANADA | thank you Gary I will check tomorow morning. Im still finding out stuff love the OFC member's
Daniel |
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Posts: 494
Location: Location Location Location | I've received numerous helpful answers back channel. I've already thanked those who've responded. This is a great forum. |
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June 2007
Posts: 3084
Location: Brisbane Australia | Mate, it's the best!!
AJ |
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April 2006
Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | Originally posted by Brooklyn:
I've received numerous helpful answers back channel. I've already thanked those who've responded. This is a great forum. What ..?.. Back Channel ..
Why not post the reply here , so that we all can benefit from astute advice .. |
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Posts: 494
Location: Location Location Location | Several members seemed to feel that this had been covered before, and pointed me into specific archived areas. |
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February 2009
Posts: 262
Location: VENISE-EN-QUEBEC CANADA | then they should do it here so whe can se also,Im still unfamilliar with some search ethic some help is alway's good for the not to fast in searching method( and the ealder OFC member should alway's remember there newbie's here all the time) ;)
Daniel :) |
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Posts: 4081
Location: Utah | Daniel, the method already mentioned is the easy way to check the neck relief. Capo on the 1st and 14th fret, then check how much space is between the top of the 6th fret and the bottom of each string.
I adjust my guitars so that the relief is darn near zero. Just barely enough space to see it with reading glasses on. If you gently tap the string onto the fret you can feel it.
Depending on your style of playing you might need more relief. The test is if you get unwanted buzzing when you play. If so, increase the relief a little.
If your frets are nice and level, you can get the action extremely low with no buzz. Buzzing on the frets above the 14th is a sign of the saddle being too low. So get the relief where you like it and then add or remove shims so that you don't get buzzing on the higher frets.
If you really want to get fancy, adjust the nut slot height. Capo between the second and third frets, and see how much space is between the top of the first fret and the bottom of the strings. This can be a very very small space. I have even taken it to just zero without buzzing on open strings, but ideally you will want just a hint of a space there. Something like .002" or so.
Buy some nut slot files and carefully and slowly lower the slot until you get that clearance as low as you dare. It will improve your action and intonation.
Really, the starting place should be the nut, but it takes a bit of bravery and $100 in files to take on the nut slots. After the nut is properly filed, then go to the relief and then to the bridge shims.
When you do this, you'll find a fret or two that is just a bit high here or there. So then you'll buy a couple of fret files to tinker with the height and crowning so that you can adjust the nut or truss rod a bit more.
The tweaking can be an endless pursuit. |
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Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | See , Fly ( who is a more " ancient " member than I am ) took the trouble , and even , when just pointing to the archives somewhere ,... Do It Here ... Flag pointed out Why .. ,
Vic
.. refreshing old knowledge is not a bad thing either .. :) |
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Posts: 9
| >Buy some nut slot files and carefully and slowly lower the slot until you get that clearance as low as you dare. It will improve your action and intonation.
That's not quite the way to do it. It is near impossible to file the slots by hand to maintain correct groove angle and individual spacing against fretboard curvature. Yes, it will "work", but thats where the tuning pings, dead open strings and intonation issues come from.
A better way is to take the nut (comes off with a slight tap) and sand its base against a flat surface. A smudge of white glue will hold it back on.
Mario |
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February 2009
Posts: 262
Location: VENISE-EN-QUEBEC CANADA | thank you very much FlySig and OFC, this is why I quitte going on other forum and love this one so much, you the pro here have so much valuable information for guy's like me and other new member's.I spend many houres a week reading all the post to try to get as much info as possible,but it is still hard sometime to search the correct info whe need.that is why whe relly on you altough sometime it might be some bother but to us it is important.you the OFC member as made my trip here a lot of fun and it is why im looking to purchase my 4 Ovation it's because of you the pro and fine poeple at Ovation Fan Club
again thank you for the help
Daniel |
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February 2009
Posts: 262
Location: VENISE-EN-QUEBEC CANADA | Ho and why doe's my CS257 only buzz on the 3 small string after I remove'd a shim.Im using the same size string and brand,it buzz after freat 12 and+
thanks
Daniel |
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Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Cuz you need an inclined/tapered shim. Or maybe you can create one. |
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Posts: 4081
Location: Utah | Originally posted by mmm:
That's not quite the way to do it. It is near impossible to file the slots by hand to maintain correct groove angle and individual spacing against fretboard curvature. Yes, it will "work", but thats where the tuning pings, dead open strings and intonation issues come from.
A better way is to take the nut (comes off with a slight tap) and sand its base against a flat surface. A smudge of white glue will hold it back on.
Mario OK. So far no problems using the nut slot files, though I do go very slowly. No pings, no dead strings, and the intonation is better now that the strings are a bit lower. I'm using real nut slot files, not jewelry files or other inappropriate tools.
I don't think I'd take on a blank nut just yet. |
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Neck Adjustment
