|
|
Joined:
April 2008
Posts: 2336
Location: Brighty in Blighty | I vaguely recall you shouldn't use mineral oil on certain types of wood. Is that right?
I've used it in anger on my ebony fretboards but is it OK to use on rosewood?
TIA! |
|
| |
|
Joined:
April 2003
Posts: 608
Location: Caribou, ME | I don't know if you 'shouldn't' use mineral oil but I don't like it. I always find a gritty residue afterwards.
On the rare occasion I use oil, I use regular boiled linseed oil. It takes longer because you're not just slathering it on and then wiping off the excess; you need to rub it in quite vigorously until much heat is generated, then wipe off the excess like you were trying to erase what you just rubbed in. If you can actually see oil on the board, you've put too much on. The net amount applied will be negligible but will last a long time. I got sold on this idea on my '71 Les Paul about 10-12 years ago. Every spring the truss rod, action, and tuning would go nuts because of the increased humidity; it was unstable. One application seemed to cure it. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
November 2008
Posts: 1119
Location: Michigan | I cant remember where but I have also read mineral oil on the fret board. I did in one time with no ill affects but I would let it soak in and then wipe it as clean as possible getting all the oil you can off the frets themselves before restringing. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
February 2004
Posts: 2487
| If you apply the Linseed oil, (very good stuff) liberally then use the Mineral spirits to clean it off this seems to thin the remaining oil and it seems to help it seep into the wood a little better and cleans up very nice.
I think some glues (many glues) used in the very important attachment of the fret board to the neck (or the bridge to the body) can come loose if you get to much of the mineral spirits on the wood and it soaks through to this glue layer below. This makes sense.
I have a mixture of butchers wax, linseed oil, mineral spirits, lemon oil and cedar oil that seems to keep my fret boards, bridges and headstocks well oiled and the light residue of the wax helps seal it a little without a white residue. You can get a shine from a buffer if you want to take the time. It is thick enough that it seem to only penetrate very little into the woods surface. I only do this once or sometimes twice a year. Otherwise just a good cleaning with a dry rag seems to be fine. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6996
Location: Jet City | Originally posted by dweezil:
is it OK to use on rosewood? yes |
|
| |
|
Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | I have been using Baby Laxative lately.
Before that I was using Old English Lemon stuff.
Neither has destroyed my fretboard, yet. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
May 2008
Posts: 4996
Location: Phoenix AZ | I use baby laxative on rosewood and ebony. Just soap and water on walnut. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | by Gallerinski:
I use baby laxative on rosewood and ebony. Just soap and water on walnut. Thank You.
I gotta be reminded to resist the urge to oil my Adamas and Viper. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
April 2008
Posts: 2336
Location: Brighty in Blighty | Thanks for the reassurance, the Olivia is well and truely oiled up now, it was pretty thirsty too. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
April 2003
Posts: 608
Location: Caribou, ME | I avoid using any oil on my Moosup Applause and Academy KA-14.
I just slapped myself (I deserved it). |
|
| |
|
Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6996
Location: Jet City | Originally posted by ksdaddy:
I avoid using any oil on my Moosup Applause and Academy KA-14.
I just slapped myself (I deserved it). You can use Penzoil on those. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 3620
Location: GATLINBURG TENNESSEE :) | I like that linseed oil idea. Good suggestion. I think I'd throw a bit of lemon oil in with it though. It seem as though the lemon oil would help with the linseed cleanup the same way citrus cleaner does. (??) |
|
| |
|
Joined:
November 2006
Posts: 3969
| Be careful with "lemon oil." Unless you buy 100% pure lemon oil, most such products are actually a mix of organic solvents with just a small amount (<10%) actual lemon oil. Those solvents can leach the natural waxes out of ebony and rosewood and actually dry them out even more. If you use linseed, make sure it says "boiled" or the linseed oil can turn rancid and smell like crap. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 3620
Location: GATLINBURG TENNESSEE :) | Thanks. I do have 100% lemon oil, and I'll make sure the linseed oil says "boiled" on the label. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
May 2003
Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | never had a problem with mineral oil on rosewood. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | Originally posted by an4340:
never had a problem with mineral oil on... ... any of my neck woods. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
May 2003
Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | back of the neck gets butcher's wax |
|
| |
Mineral oil question?
