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Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | I bought myself a beater that was listed for Parts...
Here is the evilBay listing for reference...
Anyway... There is a crack at the back of the headstock. The listing sez that it was glued before.
I put strings on it and tuned it to pitch. When I do that I can feel the crack getting a bit larger.
This is what I am talking about...
 
Here is the question... Could I (Should I) get some liquid 5 minute Crazy-Glue and put it into the cracks when I have the strings to tension... Then release the tension to allow the glue to harden?
Would that work? Or do I have to break the whole headstock off? Or wait for it to break on it's own?
Check out this bridge repair! There are four blocks of wood under the screws...
 
Oh! I didn't take a photo of the whole guitar... But here is most of it!
Anyway... I plugged it in and it works. I just got this as a cheap guitar that I can beat-up if I want to. I just really need advice on repairing that crack instead of waiting for it to snap on it's own.
Thank Y'all! |
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Joined:
November 2008
Posts: 1119
Location: Michigan | I would question the integrety of gluing together the exsiting glue joint. The glue that is there may keep you from getting a good joint. For glue to work well it has to actully seep into the grain of the wood. You might have a difficult time with that. I don't think the super glue will do you any good. Have you thought of using something like a wood biscuit to pull the pieces together with a traditional wood glue on the joint? It would stabilize the joint and add strength to the joint.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmRDya8SxeE |
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Joined:
November 2008
Posts: 1119
Location: Michigan | Oh yea, here is a handy list of shop tools you will need with a description of how they can be used:
DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock
out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer
across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had
carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench
with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned
calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh, s**t!"
SKILL SAW:
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of
blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into
major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It
transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more
you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes..
VISE-GRIPS:
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing
else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat
to the palm of your hand.
TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for
testing wall integrity.
BAND SAW:
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good
aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash
can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style
paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be
used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted
screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed
to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a
kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the
object we are trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered
to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats,
vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund
checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work
clothes, but only while in use.
Son of a b*tch TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "Son
of a b*tch" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool
that you will need. |
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Joined:
December 2003
Posts: 13987
Location: Upper Left USA | Can you tell what kind of glue was used to put the neck back on?
If it was a Hide or White glue it can be steamed apart and redone. If a crack can be opened up I would prefer a Titebond over the Cyano glue.
That Bridge job is a piece of art, Art... |
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Joined:
February 2003
Posts: 2177
Location: the BIG Metropolis of TR | I would inlay a metal bar across the neck break and put two screws in each side....to match that fantastic bridge repair! :rolleyes: :D |
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Joined:
January 2002
Posts: 14127
Location: 6 String Ranch | nice bolts on the bridge! |
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Joined:
July 2004
Posts: 766
Location: New Hampsha | I would be tempted to route a channel in the back about four inches long and half an inch wide, maybe 1/8 deep and glue in a 'dutchman'.
Then lots of shaping and sanding to match the contours of the neck.
As for that bridge.... I'd use "Screw-Out." (Lose the screws and glue in dowels with end caps.) |
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Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 3618
Location: GATLINBURG TENNESSEE :) | If all that seems to be too much, mount a dark clock face in the hole and hang it up. |
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Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Okay... Here are a bunch of better photos. I don't think that this ever broke all the way through.
Or whomever fixed it was really, really good... Which I don't believe.
I don't think that the front has been replaced.
   
And the whole thing...
All of those photos were taken with the guitar tuned-down a step.
Random thought... This may have never been glued!
It does not look like the veneer on the front of the headstock has ever been cracked or replaced.
I do have some Elmers' Wood Glue...
I may go out and buy some Titebond while I await suggestions/instructions. |
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Joined:
March 2008
Posts: 2683
Location: Hot Springs, S.D. | OMA, somebody on this board (might have been you), recommended a websit called FRETS.com a while back. I put it into favorites and look at it whenever I have spare time. He has great tutorials that show you how to repair just about anyting on a guitar. A little over halfway down the home page he has a whole section on peghead cracks.
And whoever it was who pointed this website out all those months ago, I thank you! |
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Joined:
April 2006
Posts: 1017
Location: Budd Lake, NJ | Oh, the poor thing; that must have been quite a fall to do that to it (or perhaps it just flew on the wrong airline...)
Inspite of all its' idiosyncrasies, I like the thing. And I hope you are able to restore it to a right good useful old age. It just goes to show you that Ovations are a lot like that old Timex commercial, "took a lickin' and kept on tickin.'" It will be a testimony of how well-made they are if you can restore her to some degree of playability.
Best wishes for a successful home-spa treatment,
--Karen |
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Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Okay, I glued it last night...
First, I squirted glue into the cracks while it was tuned to pitch...
Once I released the tension, a bunch of extra glue oozed out.
And this is what it looked like today...
And it plays too!
 
Now that it is all done I wish that I had put EJ16's on it instead of EJ26.
Eventually I will get to change them again... I still have to clean the Beater up.
[BTW-- How y'all like my little clubhouse?] |
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Joined:
February 2003
Posts: 2177
Location: the BIG Metropolis of TR | Great job on the repair Art!
You've got yourself a keeper....and because it's not in pristine condition, you can use it as your BFLG "experimental" git.
You can tackle replacing the bridge screws with small bolts and pearloid dots or you may want to try your hand at inlaying your name up the fret board, etc. ;)
Just have fun
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
Originally posted by CanterburyStrings:
OMA, somebody on this board (might have been you), recommended a website called FRETS.com a while back.....And whoever it was who pointed this website out all those months ago, I thank you! You're Welcome Alison :D
You might want to also check out Frank's .ning site:
Frets.Net
Most there sign in with their real names...Please visit My Page and say "howdy"
The forum has lots of good repair info too! |
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Joined:
December 2003
Posts: 13987
Location: Upper Left USA | Where's the sawdust and splinters?
Good rescue Art. |
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Joined:
January 2006
Posts: 5881
Location: Colorado Rocky Mountains | Sure enjoyed Twisted's tool list. Now we know from where his handle comes. OMA, for the price you paid, I would've hung it on the wall and been happy with the art. Looks like you've resurrected it into something more useful than just a wall hanger. |
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Joined:
May 2008
Posts: 4996
Location: Phoenix AZ | Looks good. |
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Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Originally posted by TRboy:
Great job on the repair Art!
You've got yourself a keeper....and because it's not in pristine condition, you can use it as your BFLG "experimental" git. Thanx for the encouragement, folks.
I figured that I could take this thing outside and not worry about it too much. |
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BFLG Question - Gluing Headstock/Neck Crack? Help!
