|
|
Joined:
February 2003
Posts: 398
Location: Gig Harbor, Washington | I don't normally get "amped up" about a product - but I thought this warranted an exception.
Maybe I'm the last high-gloss Ovation owner to discover this - but I recently ordered some "Ovation Scratch Remover" from an eBay vendor.
I'd hoped to breathe some fresh life into my original early 70's sunburst. It had a wide variety of battle scars and skirmish wounds acquired from LA to NY to the Caymans and back to the NW (a few tours + 3 kids!)...
After a reasonable amount of elbow grease - I am absolutely amazed that anything (short of a re-fin) could transform the finish so dramatically. And I meticulously polish the entire herd with their frequent string changes.
Ovation Scratch Remover!
Give it a try and let me (us) know...
p.s. My favorite new volume string source is Big City - Check 'em out! BigCityStrings |
|
| |
|
Joined:
October 2006
Posts: 5576
Location: big island | i thought this was a thread for polka music. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
February 2003
Posts: 398
Location: Gig Harbor, Washington | Oompapa, Oompapa Oooo! |
|
| |
|
Joined:
August 2003
Posts: 4619
Location: SoCal | Mission Viejo...hmmmm, maybe this is Moody??
Looks good, I use # 4 Swirl Remover from StewMac. They even have a buffing pad that fits a standard drill. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
February 2003
Posts: 398
Location: Gig Harbor, Washington | Don't know - business name on PayPal is Insider Arts with a customer service # of 949-813-5200...
Either way - this stuff is da kine guitar snake oil! |
|
| |
|
Joined:
January 2006
Posts: 5881
Location: Colorado Rocky Mountains | O.k, thanks for the tip. Don't need it for scratches, but certainly for pick marks. Got a jar coming. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
February 2003
Posts: 398
Location: Gig Harbor, Washington | Additional info' @ GuitarScratchRemover.com |
|
| |
|
Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | I recall reading somewhere that silicon should not be used in case a future repair is necessary.
They mention a silicon-free polish is also available.
So which way to go?  |
|
| |
|
Joined:
August 2003
Posts: 4619
Location: SoCal | Not sure why it would affect the catalyzed polyester of the Ovation top. If you have an open finish crack, you should seal it to keep oil and dirt out of it (as well as stopping the growth) anyway. The top (catalyzed polyester) can actually be sanded and then buffed.
If they were referring to the bowl...from what I have seen stated on the OFC, repairs to the bowl resulted in a complete bowl replacement. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 14842
Location: NJ | I smell Novus . . . |
|
| |
|
Joined:
July 2003
Posts: 3111
Location: Nashville TN. | Polish endorsement or polish endorcment???? |
|
| |
|
Joined:
March 2008
Posts: 354
Location: nashville | Tony,
My guitar guy uses super glue to seal cracks. What method do you suggest? I have a small hairline crack right next to the saddle that's about 2inch long on my new 1981 1111 that I have not had fixed. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
August 2003
Posts: 4619
Location: SoCal | From (IMHO) the highest authority, you can use water-soluble glue or CyA (crazy glue). Personally, as I am sloppy, I use CyA because I can use the CyA thinner/remover to wipe off any residue on the top after the glue dries (also, I can order three different viscosity (thin to thick, thin works its way down into the crack easier). If I have excess water-soluble glue, the damp rag will sometimes soften the soluble glue in the crack.
I have a Custom Legend where the top had been covered with crazy glue...looked like someone had smeared it, even leaving fingerprints. Wiped the glue off, no damage.
Trick is to fill/seal the crack, build up the glue, sand the area, build back up and sand if necessary, then buff it out.
From StewMac, I use the sanding pads (2,400-12,000) StewMac says you can use 2,400 on an Ovation, I usually use 3,200 to 6,000. I get the CyA and the remover from them as the remover from one brand sometimes doesn't work as well as if they are different brands. After all is done, Swirl Remover #4 with the foam buffer attachment for a regular drill. I also get the CyA and remover from them.
If I can't actually remove the crack, I have mixed acrylic paint to match the top/grain and mixed the paint with the CyA. Mixed the colors right on the top, then just wiped off the excess. Did this on the Anniversary (brown & orange paint) that I sent to Scot (Norseman).
Either eliminated or mitigated, smooth and stable, appearance improved.
If crack is into or through the wood, after checking why it happened (i.e., bracing), I do the same thing...CyA.
If the crack has old wax and dirt, large needle and score the crack to remove the residue.
I have said this before but...do you have chips in the headstock? Clean, then use opaque (non-gloss) nail polish to fill the chip...gradually fill it until it is level with the rest of the finish. Buffed, the nail polish will match the gloss of the headstock finish. Would probably work even on the oiled headstocks.
For the Adamas textured top, sometimes you have an older top that looks like it has small drops of black ink...this is where the finish has chipped off...for -7 and -8, you can mix the ceramic repair paint (from a store like Home Depot) to get the right color, then gradually fill it...it will dry smooth and match.
Scratch or rough spot on the back of the neck, opaque nail polish.
I wouldn't try any of this on a wood box guitar. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
March 2008
Posts: 354
Location: nashville | Tony.
Thanks much. I will order what you suggested and give it a try. I do have a small headstock nick and some screw hole where I replaced the old standard chrome tuners w/ the some OEM gold ones I picked up second hand. I used a stain pencil from Olympic to fill in the screw holes and the headstock nick. Not as good a fix as your suggestion but it does hide the "damage" if you don't put it under the microscope. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
May 2003
Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | Stew mac thin glue to stabilize the cracks. You can't get rid of them.
Buff gently with MeGuire's X ... after drying of course.
That stuff being sold on ebay sounds like a repackaging of something like scratch x, or meguire's x. I'm dubious ...
Remember ... this scratch stuff works by cutting into the finish, just like with a car's finish. Use infrequently and sparingly.
I thought this was going to be about a Polish band ... go figure. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
August 2003
Posts: 4619
Location: SoCal | On my 1669, dark sunburst, I have asked others to find the cracks I removed...one crack which was deep on the bass of the centerhole is evident but reduced and not obvious from 2-3 feet from the guitar.
One one of my CA's, natural, found finish cracks I can't help...the cracks, under the surface are at an angle, like a crack in plexiglass; two scars on a beautiful guitar (more noticeable to me than others). Maybe the next step is to use a roller and Sears Green Goblen latex paint. Actually burgundy would be better. Rough up the surface with 2000 grit, a Pactra Polycarbonate Metallic Burgundy spray can should work just fine.
Both the 1669 and the CA are the only eBay problems with disclosure I have had. Well, I did get a '97 Collectors without ears...oiled headstock so I just sanded the sides smooth. Good looking headstock, not an issue.
Some of the suggestions are basically rubbing compound, again I recommend StewMac's swirl remover.
Strange, all of my 38+ year old guitars...other than cleaning them up, haven't bothered working on the minor problems. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
August 2003
Posts: 4619
Location: SoCal | this is the 1669 that I worked on that I took before finishing up some minor issues:
from something fitting for a trip to the garbage can to a very nice guitar...and a boomer.
have used it as a slide guitar with a nut extender. |
|
| |
Polish Endorsement! This Sh*t Works!
