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OHSC patching strategies
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seesquare |
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Joined: November 2002 Posts: 3615 Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | OK, my 1117 case has several "owwies" for years of truckin' around the critter. So, for the areas where the skin has chipped off, what materials would you suggest for repair? It doesn't have to be a perfect match, but something better than JB-Weld, please! The existing case skin is getting kinda brittle, so I may be, metaphorically, "pi**ing into the wind" here. Any thoughts, e.g., "more meds", or "get over it"? | ||
GregoryS. |
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Joined: April 2005 Posts: 331 Location: San Angelo, Texas | duct tape...and if you are concerned about it matching, you can get a sharpie in a varity of colors now :) | ||
Tupperware |
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Joined: January 2005 Posts: 4903 Location: Phoenix AZ | Use a hot glue gun to build up a "skin" over the areas of missing plastic. Before it hardens completely you can smooth it out and then later paint it if you are really anal. Dave | ||
seesquare |
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Joined: November 2002 Posts: 3615 Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | OK, I will take both ideas under advisement. Anybody have experience with casting resin? I was thinking Bondo, with some type of pigment tinting. Oh, and Dave- that "anal" reference? You are very perceptive, and probably close to right. Check out the new rosette in the Gallery. Now, that's anal. While I'm on the subject, the 1117 is apparently a Legend. So, what makes them special? I have to agree it has some serious tone & low-end. I dropped the saddle on that critter a full 1/8". Geez, the previous owner must've been able to crush walnuts in his left hand! Or played slide a lot. | ||
Northcountry |
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Joined: February 2004 Posts: 2487 | Interesting As I read the question I had a suggestion that I see has already been pretty much posted. Making an exact mold of the case texture is easy to do with some Smooth-On casting rubber. This stuff is easy to work with and you can buy fairly small quanities as well if you want. Once you have the mold made I see no reason you could not cut away enough of the foam material inside and behind the thin plastic exterior and making sure the back is sealed up good poor a solution of resin inside until you have filled the spilt completely but not overfull. Then quickly apply the cast over the area, to give this the texture, and let it set for about 5 minutes and then remove. Color the repaired area with whatever paint is best. Have not looked into the coloring yet. But I plan to fix an older narrow Deacon Case I have that has some cracks in it. I am lucky enough that not much material is missing I just need to get the resin to attach itself to the pieces well enough to make a strong repair. Resin is real tough stuff it should work great! Randy | ||
seesquare |
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Joined: November 2002 Posts: 3615 Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Randy, does Home Depot or Lowe's carry that casting rubber stuff? I watch too much CSI on TV, I think, cuz those characters would probably have some great stuff they could probably reconstruct this crime scene with. | ||
Paul Templeman |
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Joined: February 2002 Posts: 5750 Location: Scotland | I've used automotive fibreglass repair kits. Quick, cheap and strong and can be made to look pretty good if you spend a little time. | ||
JeffreyD |
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Joined: September 2004 Posts: 777 Location: East Wenatchee, WA | I have done a lot of repair work on ABS type plastics in aircraft. The stuff gets a tad brittle and cracks and breaks after 30-40 years. Restored my 150 plastic without replacing one piece. Not sure if it will work, but here ya go: Get ABS glue from anywhere that has plastic irrigation pipe. Obtain ABS chips (I bought a bag from Texas Aeroplastics....can't remember how much). Melt the chips in the glue to form a cement to the consitency you want. Back the area to be repaired if possible so as not to use a ton of the stuff. You could probably do this with bondo, or even the spray in insulation foam trimmed down to allow a layer of the plastic. Then mask repair area. Use a spreader (piece of old tin or glass, don't use plastic for obvious reasons) to lay in the plastic putty. Once level to where you want it, find something with similar texture to the case, (like textured vinyl?) and as plastic firms up, use it to make the texture you want and smooth the masking mark. That may require a touch of sanding too. Find a close match of SEM or other paint specifically designed for plastic and vinyl (check auto parts store, although I understand that Rustoleum now has plastic paint), touch up the area or paint the whole case. The plastic paints actually bond with the plastic, and thus don't scratch off. Now...if I were going to do it myself....I would go with the duct tape and sharpie technique since a guitar case should have a little character...right? | ||
seesquare |
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Joined: November 2002 Posts: 3615 Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | As Tuppy accused me, in another posting, of possibly being a bit "anal", Jeffrey's scenario is very enticing. So, if I can find the casting rubber, and the ABS materials, I stand a real good chance of restoring the case, or losing my residual, admittedly precarious, sanity. This has been very helpful, Gentlemen, and thanks for your array of ideas. I will post some progress fairly soon, I expect, after a foray to the local hardware supply establishments. Cheers, Chris | ||
cliff |
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Joined: March 2002 Posts: 14842 Location: NJ | Don't take Witko too seriously. Whenever he uses the term "anal", it's merely FreudianSlip . . . | ||
seesquare |
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Joined: November 2002 Posts: 3615 Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | As Hudson & Landry (Firesign Theatre, circa 1968)opined, "We're all bozos on the same bus." And Uncle Sigmund saw it all driven by sex & aggression, anyway, based on his case studies. Another good reason to avoid neurotic women...... and copious stimulants. | ||
Northcountry |
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Joined: February 2004 Posts: 2487 | The material I am speaking of I buy from a company in KS. I wil have to find it. But there must be more people who can handle this order. Casting resin is easy to work with and you can tint it just like the old Conversion Varnises I sometimes use in an array of different colors. THe compnay that makes both the molding as well as the casting materials ia called Smooth On they make supplies for the model making industry and are the go to supply company for most of the big holywood set makers. I use this stuff at work and here at home to make molds and copies of things I have carved in wood that need to be replicated. I will look into some addresses for you all. Give me a little time I am taking the day off from any projects and headed with the Kids to see the Saratoga Battlefield and the Famous, Revolutionary War, Bennington Battle Monument. And a 7 1/2" gauge 3 mile long Live Steam railroad you can ride on, through the woods, that is open to the public once a year. Here it is.... UPS delivery is quick and these guy's have good prices. The Smooth On products may be available from someone closer if you research it a little. I found these guy's back when I was in a hurry and they were so good with the customer service I have not bothered to find anyone else. Cast-Tech Co 346 N Lindenwood Olathe KS 66062-1261 Look them up they have a bunch of products that are not easy to find elsewhere. Have fun Randy | ||
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