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| OK.. so what procedure is right? ..and action question..(long)|
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|Forums Archive -> The Vault: 2006||Message format|
Location: Reno, NV
|Let me start by saying, sorry for the novel... |
Per the Ovation Manual (Verbatim):
To Check For Warp Or Bow In The Neck:
1. Hold the 6th string, E, between the nut and first fret with your left hand; with your right hand, hold the string against the finger board at the 13th fret.
2. Check the clearance between the bottom of the string and the top of the 5th fret.
3. The clearance should be a minimum of .005" to .015" depending on the string gauge. It should not be more than .032" (1/32"), or the neck has a "warped" condition and must be adjusted at the tension rod.
4. Check the clearance of the first string, E, in the same manner.
5. If either E string touches the 5th fret, the neck has a "bowed"
condition and must be adjusted at the tension rod.
And then it says ....
The proper amount of bow can be determined by holding the low E string down at the first and last frets at the same time, and viewing the gap between that string and the top of the 7th fret. There should be a gap of about .010" (.25mm), or about the thickness of your high E string. If the gap is less than that, you need to loosen the truss rod to move the neck forward. If the gap is more than .010" (.25mm), you may want to tighten the truss rod.
.... Well, which is it?
Reason Im asking. It seems my action has gotten higer lately and Im just a little confused on how to fix it.
The manual also says (verbatim):
"Standard action" for all Ovation steel string guitars is 6/64" at the bass E string and 4/64" at the treble E string (measured as the distance between the bottom of the string and the top of the 12th fret).
My action is higher than the "Higest" specification in the manual which says 3.5/32's aka (7/64). Im at about 4/32 or 8/64 on the LOW E and 3/32 or 6/64 on HIGH E. Both measurements 1/64th above "Highest" and 2/64 above "Standard"
Ovations technical writer really needs a few lessons in consistency! Using 4 different measuring systems is just lame. (decimal inch, decimal mm, 32 and 64)
OK... getting all the conversions straight brings me to the point of this post!
My string to bridge height is 4/32 which is exactly in the middle of the manual specification which are 2/32-6/32. I also have 3 shims under the saddle (orange/yellowish). Why would my bridge to string height be right in the middle of the specification, yet my action height be a 64th above maximum?
Do I need a truss rod adjustment? ...or is there a better way? I could remove a shim I guess, but that would put me at the lower end of the string/saddle relationship and still leave me fairly high at the action on 12th fret.
I don't like to lower the saddle because the shallow string break angle really effects tone. I like my Ovation sounding sweet, so thats a LAST resort.
Im using EJ16's 12-53's so Im not overpowering the top bracing. There is no evidence of an arched top. The top looks nice and flat.
Please see my pics for a little extra clarification and if you can spot a problem, please help.
Very large pics!
|i had a simmiler problme with my folklore a few months ago when the weather changed. sounds like a humidiy problme to me. tr probly needs a tweek..jason|
Location: Reno, NV
|I was thinking the same. However, I wanted to get a few opinons on the matter before I just assume I know what Im doing (which I don't... first guitar!) |
I forgot to mention.. I bought the guitar in September (labor day sale) and it was unseasonably warm at about 100F daily, but 70F in my AC'd house. At that point the action was great.
Now its 20-40F and about 60F indoors.
So if I do need a "tweek", how much? And would I be able to solve this problem with more humidity? I have a planet waves between strings guitar humidifier, but darn it!, no Hydrometer. :-(
The truss rod would need to be TIGHTENED - turned(CW) in this situation right?
Thanks for the reply JC83.
Anyone else want to add?
|Remove a shim. It won't affect tone enough for you to tell.....|
Location: Upper Left USA
|The first and simplest way to lower the action is the removal of the thick shim. I'm guessing that you have a thick and a thin shim if it's new. |
The instrument has settled in for your climate and shouldn't change much more. As you make slight adjustments and get to understand what happens better you will find what works for you.
|is abalone a choice of your for shims mike?? |
Location: Upper Left USA
Now I remember, yes. It has the right density and I had a pile of it in 1/8" pieces.
Don't tell everyone or they'll want to upgrade too!
|lol...i just changed the strings on it this morning on the way to al's and i rembered the shims.lol...jason|
|Old Man Arthur|
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR
|Advice from the Novice-- I'd remove a shim. I read all that stuff about 1/32" clearance. The way I figger it: press the 1st and 12th fret, pluck the string, if it moves with alittle buzz, that is about right. Unless the string drags [bowed] on the frets, or is totally clear [warped], you may not need to adjust the rod. (Which I have never done, and I am trying to avoid doing.) |
Once you look at your shims, just judge how much you would like to lower, and choose one. Don't trim your strings when you put them on, in case you need to re-do it. Once you get it the way you want it, then you can trim. If you end-up doing it more than once, you can put on a new set.
Sorry for the ramble. That is how I would do it. That is how I did do it with the 4861. Enjoy!
Location: Snåsa, Norway
|My custom legend had the same symptoms due to drying out. I rehumidified it put it in the case with a humidifier for a while, and adjusted the truss rod a little after that. works great now! :)|
Location: South of most, North of few
|After hearing all the problems with the dry air, and changes in the guitars, I'm glad we don't have the same down here in the swamp land. We just have to wring them out before we play them.|
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