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July 2003
Posts: 181
Location: North Carolina | Would anyone like to comment on how, with all slse being equal, saddle height affects the ability of the strings to drive the top? Which would theoretically sound better, a saddle with one shim or three? Or does it not make a difference?
Franklin |
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June 2002
Posts: 6194
Location: Phoenix AZ | In principle, the sharper the break angle of the strings over the saddle, the greater the downward force on the saddle and better transfer of forces through the bridge to the soundboard. So one could conclude that the more shims the better. However using multiple thin shims is less efficient that using one shim. Idea situation is to have the saddle made to the exact required size and use no shims.
Dave
PS - The same angle argument can be made at the nut and that is the reason that many people will tell you that slothead guitars sound better than flat peghead guitars. |
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February 2003
Posts: 299
Location: Netherlands | theoretically a higher saddle would be preferable to a lower one with shims. one thick heavy shim would be preferable to three lighter ones. a wooden shim would be preferable to a foam one. a bone shim would be preferable to wood. theoretically.
Why? Because theoretically contact between strings and top should be as direct as possible, and theoretically this is better with hard massive materials that don't absorb the string movements, but pass them on.
Practically i don't hear the difference. Maybe it's my ears, but more likely it's because the string tension on the saddle is so high that absorption doesn't stand a chance.
Martin |
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May 2003
Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | Based on my experience, I concur with groovedude's findings. I don't really hear a difference. However, there's a point of no return if your saddle is too low. Your strings don't get a good purchase on the saddle, so if you're really flailing they move. I've noticed that thicker strings get a better grip on the saddle. It takes a while to get it just right. |
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July 2002
Posts: 1900
| Speaking of saddles and shims....when I was kid you could get real ivory to use for the nut, or the saddle, as for whatever reason back then it was considered 'ideal' for tone, or signal transfer; any opinions on the materials used today being compared with ivory? |
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February 2002
Posts: 5750
Location: Scotland | Bone works just fine & there's too many other variables to argue whether ivory is better than bone or vice-versa. Fossil ivory is available but I'm not sure it's worth the extra expense. And while the "good" synthetics such as Micarta, Corian & Tusq all work well, I'd go for bone every time.
Too shallow a break angle kills tone, volume & projection |
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March 2002
Posts: 14842
Location: NJ | Paul;
How hard is it to change-out the actual "saddle" on the standard Ovation pickup/saddle assembly?
Somebody gave me a bone saddle that I wanna use, but I'm reticent about yanking the thing apart and have something go wrong and not have ample "fix" time before I need the guitar for a gig.
The other problem's gonna be if I make the "switch", I'll loose that nifty black saddle that I got from Al that I really like the looks of.
decisions, decisions . . . . . |
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June 2002
Posts: 6194
Location: Phoenix AZ | reticent ????
Gezus, Cliff, you even spelled it correctly.
Dave |
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March 2002
Posts: 14842
Location: NJ | ay! jez cawz I live'n Joizey don' mean I got no fuggin' clazz!!! :D |
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February 2002
Posts: 5750
Location: Scotland | Cliff, you got a bone saddle for your ovation PU? Well done, they are handmade and cost a fortune for what they are (around $100).
Remove the pickup & take out the 2 pins either side. You should be able to very carefully lift off the existing saddle which will expose the silicone rubber covering the piezo elements. (I've done this a few times to replace worn saddles) you can then press the new bone saddle into place. You could use a little silicone or rubber-solution glue to secure it if you think it's needed. |
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Saddle action and Sound
