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OHSC Question

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   Forums Archive -> The Vault: 2004-2005Message format
 
willard
Posted 2004-01-25 7:32 AM (#196600)
Subject: OHSC Question


Joined:
November 2002
Posts: 1300

Location: Madison, Wisconsin
The black binding is falling off one of my older hard shell cases. It's one of the light brown ones with the black ribbon around the edge. I've tried to glue it back on with super glue but it doesn't seem to hold. Has anyone found a good solution?
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Standingovation
Posted 2004-01-25 7:36 AM (#196601 - in reply to #196600)
Subject: Re: OHSC Question



Joined:
June 2002
Posts: 6192

Location: Phoenix AZ
Remove all the black binding and either 1) live without it, or 2) replace it with black cloth electrical tape. Dave
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Bob Mintus
Posted 2004-01-25 8:04 AM (#196602 - in reply to #196600)
Subject: Re: OHSC Question


Joined:
November 2003
Posts: 100

Location: Warren, OH
If it's plastic, super glue will not hold very well. You might want to try Duco Cement, hot glue, contact cement, or epoxy.

Contact cement or hot glue will work OK if you can get in between the binding and the case. If not epoxy is the best choice.

If you use epoxy, use a slow-setting type that has a long working time (i.e., not 5-minute, preferably something like several hours.

If the crack through which you put the glue is small you can thin the epoxy by heating the two parts BEFORE you mix them. This will make the epoxy easier to mix and pour (you may be able to use a syringe if needed).

As far as temperature is concerned, you want to heat it to hot water temp, not boiling. If you have epoxy in the polypropylene bottles, you can put them in the microwave. Heating the two parts will decrease the working time and curing time as it accelerates the chemical reaction that causes curing.

DO NOT PUT MIXED EPOXY IN THE MICROWAVE - IT WILL REALLY ACCELERATE CURING AND WILL RUIN IT. I know that from firsthand experience. Lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol will remove uncured epoxy should you make a mess. You also can thin the epoxy with a little lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol, but I prefer the heating method.
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peterbright
Posted 2004-01-25 9:14 AM (#196603 - in reply to #196600)
Subject: Re: OHSC Question


Joined:
December 2003
Posts: 420

Location: On the beach in Southwest Florida
Great tutorial Bob. I've always heated water in the microvave & put the plastic bottles of epoxy in the hot water after the water comes out of the microwace to raise the temperature. The direct method you describe would be faster. How many seconds do you nuke them?
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Tony Calman
Posted 2004-01-25 12:53 PM (#196604 - in reply to #196600)
Subject: Re: OHSC Question



Joined:
August 2003
Posts: 4619

Location: SoCal
For small sections that had come loose...used Ambroid model glue...small amounts. Worked great. Slower setting so taped it down to set.
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Bob Mintus
Posted 2004-01-25 2:19 PM (#196605 - in reply to #196600)
Subject: Re: OHSC Question


Joined:
November 2003
Posts: 100

Location: Warren, OH
If you put the epoxy bottles in the microwave, try short periods of 10 seconds each. Unfortunately, this is assuming you're using large bottles (3-4 oz each) and an average microwave. Microwave ovens vary greatly - early ones were about 400 watts and recent ones can be over 1000 watts - so your mileage may vary. Remember to leave the cap off so the bottle can vent as the contents expands. I wouldn't want to have to clean epoxy out of my microwave and risk the wrath of my wife!

I have used this method with several brands of epoxy - Hobbypoxy (2, I think, which has a normal working time of 45 minutes) and Devcon - without problems. A couple of times I got the bottles too hot to hold comfortably, but never had any problems.

One time, however, I forgot to heat the two parts before mixing and tried to put the mixture in the microwave. Bad idea. It started to cure and overheated (once parts are mixed you get an exothermic reaction that releases heat) and had a very strange consistency with lots of bubbles. Needless to say, I should have thrown the batch out and started again.

Tony's suggestion of Ambroid or other similar model cement would work too, but I really don't care for the smell.

I thought of Duco Cement because the pickguard on my Alvarez Yairi 12-string had to be replaced and that was what my contact at Alvarez recommended to glue a new pickguard on.
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Tony Calman
Posted 2004-01-25 2:42 PM (#196606 - in reply to #196600)
Subject: Re: OHSC Question



Joined:
August 2003
Posts: 4619

Location: SoCal
Bob,

Some of us like the smell...depending on what song we are playing. Does affect memory once in a while...now if I can just remember where my guitar is.
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peterbright
Posted 2004-01-25 3:05 PM (#196607 - in reply to #196600)
Subject: Re: OHSC Question


Joined:
December 2003
Posts: 420

Location: On the beach in Southwest Florida
...And it gives playing in the closet an entirely different meaning.
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willard
Posted 2004-01-25 3:15 PM (#196608 - in reply to #196600)
Subject: Re: OHSC Question


Joined:
November 2002
Posts: 1300

Location: Madison, Wisconsin
The material seems to be some kind of cloth rather than plastic so I don't think the model cement will work. I like the hot glue idea and Dave's "live without it" idea even better.
Thanks to all for the suggestions.
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MWoody
Posted 2004-01-25 3:44 PM (#196609 - in reply to #196600)
Subject: Re: OHSC Question



Joined:
December 2003
Posts: 13983

Location: Upper Left USA
Now that the "serious" suggestions are in I have a suggestion you go to Gary L's brother and get some of that Leopard Spot treatment!

Here is a link to a photo:

Leopard Spot Guitar
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cliff
Posted 2004-01-26 8:25 AM (#196610 - in reply to #196600)
Subject: Re: OHSC Question


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 14842

Location: NJ
I'd go with contact cement.
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