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Joined:
November 2008
Posts: 1119
Location: Michigan | I am thinking I have to adjust my truss rod in my new (to me) 1767 legend that I am working on. I have downloaded the manual and have a general idea of what to do. It seems like I would have to loosen or remove a couple of strings to get in there? Anyway, I am trying to figure out what tool to use. I cannot see if it is an allen head or not, nor can I figure out how deep it is seated in there. I don't think it needs much. Using the manuals instructions I am about .020 at the 5th fret. Any help or pointers would be appreciated or if anyone in the Detroit Mich area knows of a shop where I can take it in for the adjustment it would be appreciated. I know Elderly intruments in Lansing can probably do it but they charge a minimum of $75 I believe and I figure I can purchase the tool and do it myself as it may be something that will have to be looked after in the future. Thanks folks in advance. |
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Joined:
October 2005
Posts: 4025
Location: Utah | Look online, and search this site too. It is pretty easy to do. The only caution is to make small changes and then wait a day to see how it settles. |
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Joined:
November 2008
Posts: 1119
Location: Michigan | I did a search but came up with a number of different sizes for the truss wrench. In any case Kim emailed me back and it is a standard 3/16 allen hex. Just a post in case anyone else searches. |
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Joined:
October 2005
Posts: 4025
Location: Utah | There is a really simple and cool method to test your neck relief to see if you need to adjust the truss rod. Fret at both the first and 14th frets. If you have two capos, it is the easiest way. Or you'll need three hands.
Your strings now make a straight edge across the 1st to 13th fret. Look at the space between the strings and the 6th fret. There should be just the smallest gap there. If there is no gap at all, you need to loosen the truss rod. If there is much of a gap, you need to tighten the truss rod.
You can "tap test" the gap. Tap the 6th string on the 6th fret. You should feel it tap the fret. But you shouldn't be able to see much of a gap there at all. If you can feel it, but barely see it, your relief is set up properly for good action. If you thrash on your guitar, you'll want more of a gap.
There are specs on the web for what that gap should be, and you can use a regular thickness gauge (like you can buy in an automotive store) to measure it. However, I find that I prefer slightly less relief for lower action.
Now that the relief is set properly, you can see if you need to add or remove shims from under the saddle. If you get fret buzz at the upper frets, you need to add a couple of shims. If you get a little buzz now and again when playing firmly, you might want to add 1 shim. If the action is too high, take a shim or two out.
Also, while you're at it, check out your nut slots. Fret across at the 3rd fret (between the 2nd and 3rd fret), using a capo if you have one. Now look at the gap between the bottom of the strings and the first fret. If it touches, the slots are too deep. But usually the problem is that there is too much of a gap. The nut is in effect your zero fret. There is no reason for it to be radically higher than any other fret. The first fret is the same height as the second, etc. So why should zero be higher than 1? In reality, there should be a slight gap, but that is all. If it seems high, you might want to have a pro look at it and file it down. |
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Joined:
October 2008
Posts: 639
Location: NW of Philadelphia | FlySig,
That is one of the best descriptions of what to check that I have read. Well done. |
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truss rod adjustment?
