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Location: sitting at my computer | danomyte - Dan, man not only is your work, your home made jigs, fixtures, and ingenuity amazing, your attention to detail in writing these posts is incredible. Doing an extensive rebuild like this is engineering art, and your posts are no less impressive. I dream of having the time and patience you have. Kudos Dan. Just f'n awsome stuff. Yup, what danomyte said! Impressive all 'round Dan.  Nifty wheels too!!  |
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Location: Denmark | You really have done your research and apparently thought of everything. I follow the work of You and arumako with admiration, pleasure and interest. Thank you again for sharing. |
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | immoody - 2014-11-24 12:59 PM
Dan, since 1996, Chevy has been building really great Vettes. Actually I'm not a fan of the new one, or the 2015 Mustang. Too busy looking on both, and I prefer the retro look of the pony. Your model Vette is one of the ones I really like.....
Yeah, GM really took a beating with poor reviews of the last of the C3 line. (1968-1982) So, when they sat down to build the C4, (1984-they started with a clean sheet of paper with the intention of building a sports car that could compete with the world's best and they did a really good job with improving it a little bit every year.
Then, for the C5 (1997-2004) they, again, started with a clean sheet of paper, not only with the body, but also with the drive train, including a brand new, all-aluminum small block (LS-series) producing 350HP and 350 Lb. Ft. torque out of 346cid displacement without resorting to overhead cams, etc. The engineers also designed the engine to give a service life of 200,000 miles, which is an unheard-of standard.
By all accounts, the C5 was a home-run. It's capable of sub-5 second 0-60 times and capable of 175+ mph top speeds and still able to get up to 30mpg on the highway. In 2003, (my year) they gave the car a revolutionary suspension system that included magnetic shocks. Even though it's technically a reactive suspension, the computer reacts so fast it feels like an active one. With a flip of the switch you can have the ride of a smooth touring car or a hard-charging sports car.
The C6 was an evolution of the C5 with minor cosmetic changes and an upgrade in HP. (2005-2013, 400HP base) The C7 is a further evolution of the breed. (2014-present, 450HP base)
The reception of the C7 has been mixed in the Corvette community. Either you like it or you don't. I like the convertible better than the hard-top. From the 3/4 rear view, the hard-top reminds me of the Datsun 240Z.
Interestingly, the Corvette and Ovation share a lot of similarities. Both use fiberglass as a major component of their construction and both have a small and very devoted fan base.
WRT the Mustang, there still may be one in my future. My wife likes her current car, but would like something a little more sporty. She really likes the `Stangs, so when we're ready to trade up, I'll put her in the driver's seat and let her have at it. 
Edited by DanSavage 2014-11-24 4:51 PM
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | SOBeach - 2014-11-24 1:06 PM Impressive all 'round Dan. Nifty wheels too!! Thanks! |
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | tpa - 2014-11-24 1:47 PM
You really have done your research and apparently thought of everything. I follow the work of You and arumako with admiration, pleasure and interest. Thank you again for sharing.
You're very welcome. I'm glad you're enjoying it. |
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Location: Yokohama, Japan | DanSavage - 2014-11-24 1:27 AM
Like I've said before, Lyrachord is just a name Ovation marketing gave to the fiberglass bowls. By itself, there's nothing special about the fiberglass they used.
The SMC bowls are made from the same materials as Corvette body panels and both use the same heated compression molds to make the parts.
Speaking of Corvettes, it should come as no surprise to anyone what kind of car I drive.
That is one sweet ride DanSavage! Love the color too. I don't imagine you're able to transport too many Os in that two seater?!
It's amazing that Mr. Kaman had the vision to use this kind of technology for guitars back in the 60s! |
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | arumako - 2014-11-24 3:52 PM
That is one sweet ride DanSavage! Love the color too. I don't imagine you're able to transport too many Os in that two seater?!
It's amazing that Mr. Kaman had the vision to use this kind of technology for guitars back in the 60s!
Thanks, Arumako. I really like it, too.
Actually, this particular generation is the first one since the 1959 to have a trunk for carrying luggage, guitars, etc. With the top up, it's large enough to carry at least two Ovation deep bowl guitar cases.
Earlier Corvette coupes had a rear glass hatch, but the convertibles did not have a trunk.
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Location: Boise, Idaho | I heard a few complaints about GM skipping 1983 for the Corvette anniversary year. What happened? I've never been a Corvette guy, but noticed the similarities between Corvettes and Ovations. The only poster I ever saw comparing Ovations and cars (and girls) was with a Ferrari. |
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Location: Indiana | Another fascinating project Dan. |
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | Mark in Boise - 2014-11-24 4:11 PM
I heard a few complaints about GM skipping 1983 for the Corvette anniversary year. What happened? I've never been a Corvette guy, but noticed the similarities between Corvettes and Ovations. The only poster I ever saw comparing Ovations and cars (and girls) was with a Ferrari.
Basically, the C4 Corvette was a complete redesign of the breed and included some of the most advanced techniques in automotive engineering. GM was set to introduce it, but before the production lines could be started, California voted to make emission standards more stringent than ever, which delayed production. GM decided to withhold the 1983 model year to make the necessary changes and started C4 production as the 1984 model.
Ha ha! What makes the Corvette and Ovation alike, more so than the Ferrari, is that like the Corvette, Ovation guitars give the user the most bang for the buck. Even today, Corvettes and Ovations give their owners features and performance that cost 2-3 times as much for other brands. (read: Ferrari & Martin/Taylor)
Edited by DanSavage 2014-11-24 8:08 PM
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | Jonmark Stone - 2014-11-24 5:42 PM
Another fascinating project Dan.
Thanks, Jonmark.
Now that the bowl bend has been completed, I can breath a sigh of relief. Truth be told, I was more than a little nervous about how it would turn out and thankfully, it was a complete success. It's one thing to try to bend the bowl on my own 1970s blah-blah-blah. It's quite another to be attempting to do it for the first time on someone else's 1967 shiny bowl which was the 485th Ovation produced. (talk about pressure! --Phew!)
Now I can start moving forward with the actual rebuilding process, starting with gathering the needed materials. |
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Location: SoCal | Anything going on with this? Inquiring minds want to know (just 'cause it's so damned cool)...... |
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Location: Boise, Idaho | I'm impressed. Every time I try to bend something back, I either break it or it snaps back. Dan has a lot of knowledge about plastics and fiberglass and is creating a lot more. |
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | immoody - 2014-12-04 10:02 AM
Anything going on with this? Inquiring minds want to know (just 'cause it's so damned cool)......
Yep. I ordered the top wood and I'm awaiting its arrival.
As usual I can't do any sort of construction project without experimenting. I ordered Sitka spruce blanks from Stewmac to use for the bracing and it should be arriving with the top wood order.
I couldn't help but notice the sizes of the stock used for the original X-braces are standard aviation sizes used for stringers, longerons, etc. One of the woods extensively used in airplane construction is Sitka spruce, especially quarter-cut Sitka spruce.
The main X-braces are 5/16" x 3/8". The transverse brace is 1/2" x 5/8". The sound hole doublers (for lack of a better term) are 1/8" x 1/2".
All of these sizes are available from my local aviation supply house, so I'm going to pick up some this weekend and see if these are usable as brace wood for Jay's guitar.
More to follow...
Edited by DanSavage 2014-12-04 3:16 PM
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | Mark in Boise - 2014-12-04 11:09 AM
I'm impressed. Every time I try to bend something back, I either break it or it snaps back. Dan has a lot of knowledge about plastics and fiberglass and is creating a lot more.
Thanks, Mark.
I'm looking forward to making my own bowl mold laying up my own bowl. That will be a fun project.
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Location: Boise, Idaho | Could you come up and fill a couple of holes I drilled in the wrong side of our cabinet door? That's the kind of success I've had on my projects lately. |
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | Sure thing. I've heard the Gem State is a beautiful place to visit. |
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | My wood order from Stewmac (SM) came in. As I noted earlier I ordered the brace wood blanks.
I also made a trip out to Aircraft Spruce (AS) in Corona, CA to pick up some spruce cap strips in the sizes used for the bracing on this guitar.
Now that I have both sets of wood in my hands, it's pretty clear they're both of comparable quality. They're both quarter-saw, high grain count with little run-out. It should work good as bracing. 
Sorry for the funky yellow tinge in the photo. The CCD in my camera is dying. I also got the top wood. Nothing left to do now, but start building the top. Please stand by...
Edited by DanSavage 2014-12-10 2:32 AM
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Location: Yokohama, Japan | Standing by, standing by! |
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Location: Texas | This is like a teaser post... I am curious...the "patches" that were used to "stabilize" the cracks...is that the common method used? And is it really effective? |
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | amosmoses - 2014-12-11 8:52 AM
This is like a teaser post... I am curious...the "patches" that were used to "stabilize" the cracks...is that the common method used? And is it really effective?
Yeah, I know. I'm sorry. I really couldn't do anything to the guitar until I received the basic building materials.
The next steps are to cut the wood needed to build the 3-piece top, sand the edges, then joint them together. Once the glue is dry, I'll take the top wood to the wood shop to have them thickness sand the wood.
The tricky part on this one is the cutting the sound hole and the groove for the rosette. On my 1619, I was allowed a certain amount of leeway because the rosette hid the opening. But, on this one, it's got to be perfectly round. Ditto for the rosette groove.
After that, it's cutting and shaping the braces and gluing them to the top.
But, before I join the top to the body, I'm going to spend time on the replacement decals to make sure they're going to look good. Once I'm satisfied, I'll sand the paint off the body and the finish off the neck.
Etc., etc., etc...
The small wood strips glued across the cracks are called cleats and AFAIK, it's a standard practice. As you surmise, they provide a base to keep the crack stabilized.
Edited by DanSavage 2014-12-11 12:12 PM
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Location: sitting at my computer | DanSavage - The tricky part on this one is the cutting the sound hole and the groove for the rosette. I'm guessin' you're gonna need one of them custom-made Dan Savage perfect-circle-makin' dremel / router jigs!! |
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | LOL!
Actually, the plan is buy and test a Dremel Plunge Router attachment which includes the ability to cut circles, route grooves, etc.
See: http://www.lowes.com/pd_2072-353-335_0__?productId=1058775 |
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Location: sitting at my computer | DanSavage - Actually, the plan is buy and test a Dremel Plunge Router attachment which includes the ability to cut circles, route grooves What?! A store-bought jig??? tisk tisk tisk (just kidding Dan)  FWIW, I saw this really simple, clever (imho) home-made circle cutting jig... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lj8kcjx201A So when cutting these circles, I assume (yeah I know that's dangerous) you'd first route out the rosette inlay groove... then... using the same center pivot point, cut out the soundhole. ?? |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Yeah, SOBeach, that's the way I've done it, on my rosette inlays. And, I have have the rudimentary, Dremel fixture for cutting circles, without the plunge feature. Kind of a flat bar, with a threaded fitting for the nose of the tool, and an adjustment for cutting depth. Requires a small center hole, but everything is concentric, after that. |
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1967 Balladeer Rebuild...
