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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Thanks for the guidance & protocol, Dan. The paint is going down pretty smoothly. I have emptied the can of black lacquer, so far. RE: 4-6 mil finish- how can you determine how thick the finish may be? The rattle can says it covers about 7 sq. ft. Estimating the bowl at about 1/2 of that, so that's arithmetically 2 full coats? I hadn't thought that much about how much paint I needed; I just wanted it to go down smooth & even. I am going to shoot clear lacquer over the color coat, but I suppose I need to have enough black lacquer applied, first. What's your advice, maestro? |
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | Oops. I'd thought I had already responded.
I usually just keep applying coats until the finish looks thick enough.
The pros use something called a wet-film gauge, or comb.
Here's what it looks like. 
Here's how you use it. 
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Well, I should have known there was a tool for this issue. How do you use this gizmo without messing up the paint surface? I understand that the reading is taken in the wet film, but I don’t see how it won’t leave a mark, as the paint sets pretty fast. So, take the reading, then shoot more paint over that area?
BTW, thanks for the support! |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Product report & review on Amazon- guy states the reading is done right after laying down the paint & doesn't leave a mark. I wonder if the type of paint makes a difference. That lacquer dries awfully fast. |
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Location: When?? | Doesn't leave a mark. That is an interesting learn-about, especially considering usage on a quick drying or thick viscus paint surface. If you are concerned with numerical precision then this tool is definitely the one to have.. but otherwise the end of a toothpick would seem to suffice at least the eyeball aspect of such a measurement if the painter is satisfied with that; or to then measure the mark on the toothpick with the gauge. Just seems less intrusive on the fresh surface. But if the pros say it doesn't leave a mark, then someone with a box of toothpicks is missing out on a cool tool. |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | I agree with you, Al. I could use a toothpick & probably get an adequate reading of paint depth, and it only leaves one small indentation to flow out, in a relatively unobtrusive location. I think I will just proceed with the clear lacquer & let it set up for a few weeks. I managed to get all the black lacquer down in one day, so this is definitely doable. More progress & I perceive there is light at the end of the tunnel, & it isn't an oncoming train.
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Location: When?? | It looks like you are well, well on your way to perfection. Nice job!! It's difficult to tell if the guy in the refection is holding a camera extension handle or possibly blowing a horn in proud jubilation.. but just for fun I will go with the latter, and further imagine abundant echo in said tunnel. Glad it's not a train! |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | The reflection is comprised of me holding my cellphone over the bowl and the garage door opener track above me. Not terribly impressive, and I continue to hold my breath with this project, with intermittent spells of hyperventilation & panic.
Edited by seesquare 2022-02-20 7:07 AM
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Location: Upper Left USA | Yous people continue to be not only a great reference source but an incredible source of enthusiasm! |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Thanks for the support, Michael! It appears all my projects boil down to either I manage them, or they manage me. No complaints, really. |
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | seesquare - 2022-02-20 5:05 AM
The reflection is comprised of me holding my cellphone over the bowl and the garage door opener track above me. Not terribly impressive, and I continue to hold my breath with this project, with intermittent spells of hyperventilation & panic.
I know how it feels.
I went through the same spells of consternation/panic when I was restoring Jay Kantor's 1967 Balladeer, including refinishing the bowl.
Are you planning to shoot clear over the black?
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Thanks for the empathy, Dan. Not so much the financial risk, but the amount of sweat and time, to avoid having to rework some aspect extensively.
Just emptied the can of clear lacquer on the bowl. Looks good and the reflection is pretty deep. Guess I will let the critter rest awhile and get the finish nice and hard. So, best protocol of cutting & polishing? |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | I have invested in a set of 2x2 Micro Mesh papers (3000-to-12000-grit) to do the final level & polishing phase. A good deal of elbow grease, I'm sure, but less chance of burning through the finish. And, the shipping will take about a week, so that should stifle my impatient & impetuous impulses!
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | Yes, if you're done spraying you'll want to let it rest for a month or so.
The 'cutting' portion is meant to level the surface by taking the high spots down to the level of the low spots. (obviously)
If orange peeling is present, you'll need to remove more material than you would if there were no orange peeling. (obviously)
If the orange peeling is extreme, I would start with 600-grit to remove most of it, then switch to 800-grit to fully level the surface.
If the orange peeling is minor, I would start with 800-grit.
At that point, you just work your way through progressively-finer grits until you get to at least 1500-grit.
I wrap the sand paper around a small styrofoam block and always use water to prevent the sand paper from clogging.
Every time you change grits, alter your sanding pattern from vertical to horizontal and vice-versa. This will allow you to more easily see whether you've removed the previous sanding marks.
After that, it's time to start polishing. I've always had good luck with Meguiar's #9 swirl remover with a soft cotton polishing wheel chucked into an electric drill.
I tried #7 a couple of times, but the #9 seemed to work better.
You'll want to alternate between vertical and horizontal between each pass.
I also look at the surface underneath florescent lights as these will show imperfections/scratches really well. Again, alternate views between horizontal and vertical.
Under the lights, any areas that still need polishing will have a cloudy/foggy appearance. |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Thanks Dan. The challenge will be waiting a month before I embark on this phase. I will look for the Meguiar's #9 (as in Love Potion?). I understand about alternating the sanding patterns. I have a 2-foot fluorescent fixture over the main bench, so that should suffice for the close inspection for scratches & flaws. There are also two, twin-bulb, 4-foot fixtures on the ceiling, too. As the years commence, I notice needing more illumination for my work projects. Age & Gravity is a bit of a nuisance, at times. This may sound a trifle nit-picky, but what's the best color or wavelength for the light tubes? I know the more-blue ones seem a bit harder on the eyes than the more-yellow ones, but they may show the flaws better.
The orange peel doesn't look too bad. Hopefully, I can start at 800-grit, & proceed from there.
Edited by seesquare 2022-02-21 5:22 PM
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | The final surface looks pretty good. Let `er shrink, then start with 800-grit...
Personally, I like the daylight temperature range. (5000K - 6500K)
WRT to tired eyes, I replaced my old florescent tubes with LED and found they put out more light.
Edited by DanSavage 2022-02-22 12:05 AM
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Thanks for the feedback, Dan. I know what you are referring to with the LED lights. I replaced our florescent fixture in the kitchen with an LED fixture, switched it on, and immediately remarked, "Geez, this light must be for old folks!" Yeah, well, get used to it, Bonzo.
So, I will let the finish cure for the next month. Got other things to occupy my time, like fabricating fenders for my recumbent trike. Probably ought to just buy them from the factory, but where's the fun in that?! |
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Location: When?? | Looking great! That's gonna cut and polish real nice with the 800 followed by your new pads.
A tip on the Meguiar's.. always put it on the applicator cloth or wheel and smooth it out on there first. Never put it directly on the surface first. Great stuff. Long ago (70s-80s) Maguire's marketed a two-step version that was popular on the show car scene. The first step filled, and the second step leveled and cured to "wet look" that lasted for a few days. Perhaps those were the same or similar formulas as 7 & 9 are today. You can also hand-apply either to new car headlights to protect them from going cloudy, or drill-rotary it onto older ones and it will perk them back up.
Have fun with the trike. Maybe go full fairing! My pa-in-law and I once built a recumbrent peddle configuration for a canoe. 10-speed chain in a standard Coleman with 28" diameter paddles on both sides aft and a steering wheel rudder. It required a foot of draw below, but it hauled right along.
Edited by Love O Fair 2022-02-23 12:02 PM
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Some impressive engineering there, Al. So, was it christened, "The Sequoia Sidewheeler"?!
Thanks for the advice on the Meguiar's procedure. I have about a month to study up on polishing, and practice on some stuff, like maybe going after the 1111-6 Balladeer I got from Dave, several months ago. Yes, the one that took the dive & got repaired, a second time. The yellow enamel paint has been curing over a couple of months, so should be hard enough to test out the Micro Mesh pads on. |
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Location: When?? | @seesquare - >>>"The Sequoia Sidewheeler"?<<<
Close.. since it did in fact spend most of its life on the slow and easy wides of the San Joaquin River casting toward shore for bass. But no, we named it "Peep".. short for PP.. which stood for "pedal powered".. since who really wants a boat named Pee Pee?
How's it going with the polish on the 1111-6? Curious to know how that enamel reacts to your pads and the Meguire's. I'm agreeing that it should have cured hard by now to make a very ice polished gloss.
Edited by Love O Fair 2022-03-02 1:34 PM
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Haven't started yet. Got sidetracked with the trike fender project. I will report some results, pretty soon. A canoe named Pee Pee- now, that's funny. "Peesquare" would probably not be an improvement, either. |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Went after the 1111-6 with the micro mesh pads, up to 12000-grit. Have before & after pictures, though hard to photogrash the change. It is significantly smoother, and I did burn through some of the clearcoat in places. There is still fine scratches, and I will polish them out with some rubbing compound and plexiglass cleaner. Need to make a trip to Ace Hardware, later today. I think I will post the images at the 1111-6 thread, also, to continue that documented process.
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Yeah, I know, it's been a while. I wanted the lacquer to set up really well before I went after it with the micromesh pads. I started with 4000-grit to level the orange peel, didn't find it was cutting sufficiently, so dropped to 3600-grit & made adequate progress. Switched to 6000, then finished with 12000. Used some medium rubbing compound to get out the swirls, then put on a coat of paste wax. This is as good as it is going to get. Not perfect, but it is done. I will get it strung up and tweak the action, as necessary.
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Location: Upper Left USA | Yes!
And you were dressed when you took photos of reflective surfaces! |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | so much for the naked truth, eh? |
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Pandora II- The GCDB Restoration
