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Location: Pueblo West, CO | seesquare - 2022-02-05 6:06 PM
Actually, SWMBO asked if there was somewhere inside the house I could paint. As I will probably switch to another type of paint, which will probably stink up the joint, probably not an option.
Yeah, if you're going to spray with Eastwood 2K, you're definitely not going to want to spray inside.
Even outside is tricky because you don't want to be breathing in the paint fumes from this finishing system.
There are no solvents. Only catalyzed paint. (Imagine breathing aerosol 2-part epoxy) |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Thanks for the info, Dan. I will consider the options while the weather warms up a bit around here. I will be setting up the guitar in the meantime. |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Sounds pretty good. Action is 2.38/32” (0.074) treble side & 1/8” (0.124), bass side. Nut was a royal pain, but the saddle was spot-on. Intonation is a shade off on the G string, I think. String spacing is more narrow at the neck now. Neck relief required about a half-turn tighter. Will check it again tomorrow for additional adjustment. Okay, praying for warmer weather, but reasonably satisfying outcomes, thus far! |
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| Now we know why Ovation went from a shiny bowl to a textured bowl. |
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Posts: 270
| Now we know why Ovation went from a shiny bowl to a textured bowl. |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | I would speculate the SMC bowls were cheaper, in the long run. Hand-laid fiberglass would run up the labor & production costs, and probably slowed down the production rate. No matter the aesthetics, you just can't avoid the beancounters. At the end of the day, it's still capitalism. |
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Location: SoCal | It was easier to finish the bowls, but they also needed the molded area at the neck so that they could attach the Kaman Bar neck. The earlier bowls were thinner but the molded bowls more practical for their needs....... |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | I have put several coats of Truoil on the top & believe this is about as good as I am able, right now, in regard to the top finish. I have trimmed the rosette and finagled it into the original routed area where it's predecessor had lied. Has an interesting contour, as the fretboard extension area is flat, but the rear section is raised, somewhat. I don't think it makes a lick-of-difference to the structural integrity or resonance; it's in keeping with the restoration of functionality. Certainly more than lipstick on a pig, also!
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | Was the rosette shaped like that before it was attached to the top? |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Nope, it was pretty flat. It took on that contour after it was fitted to the depressed area where the original was. So, the replacement rosette is a shade larger in O.D. than the original. |
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Location: SoCal | So the replacement was an overlaid, not inlaid, rosette?
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| Looks great and I like that it proudly bears its scars. It makes it much more interesting.
Edited by BCam 2022-02-11 6:52 PM
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Location: When?? | I shuttered when I first saw that rosette. It was flat as a dime when it left here. But now I understand what you mean about the fit, and I hope it seats and seals as-is and doesn't further tweak. But hey, now you can say that you have a round-front round-back guitar! The top on my '68 DB has substantial top sinking around the sound hole span that may have otherwise turned out the same as yours IF it had an overlaid rosette; HOWEVER, some owner along the line tried to make an overlay settle in like an original inlaid one, which turned out half-assed okay, but could also be a factor to what caused the sinkage in the first place upon that brace pattern since there is very little belly bulge-- meaning-- you are probably better off like you are with yours, though just the opposite of the installation result on mine (if all that makes any sense).
PS-- The guitar still sounds absolutely fantastic!
::knock on 'sunken' wood::
Edited by Love O Fair 2022-02-11 8:56 PM
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November 2002
Posts: 3611
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Thanks again, guys!! Since the installation of an overlay into an inlaid resulted in a bit of a gap between the old channel and the new rosette, I decided to epoxy and clamp the rosette as flat as possible. I will see the results tomorrow, after the adhesive cures sufficiently. So, it won’t probably have much of a hump. |
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Location: When?? | Are you going to use Truoil to finish the bridge, too? I was reading a piece about someone who uses Truoil on porous walnut and other instrument woods and preps the wood with CA glue first-- which is probably too late to do with your top if you didn't use it already-- but may work nice on sealing the bridge. Anyway, here is the URL for the article and photos--
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t49gfO_pioRARQ8CmikgOHBydBVUs6gh/vi...
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Thanks for the Truoil protocol, Al. I guess the issue will be whether a shiny bridge is what I desire. Are there any advantages for an oiled bridge, like with lemon oil, over the more sealed, harder CA/Truoil treatment? The oiled option probably matches the fretboard better. It is nice to have choices, though. |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | I see this as an improvement. Hope to start on the bowl painting soon. It's warmin' up!
Edited by seesquare 2022-02-12 10:18 AM
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rosette reglue treble- smaller image.jpg (48KB - 0 downloads)
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rosette reglue- bass- smaller image.jpg (48KB - 0 downloads)
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Location: When?? | @seesquare - >>>I see this as an improvement.<<<
+1. Nice!!
>>>The oiled option probably matches the fretboard better.<<<
+1 again. |
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | I agree that the rosette looks much better after fixing. |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | I am preparing to shoot the bowl. I am going to use some rattle-can lacquer, warm up the spray area to about 65 degrees, put the cans in hot water, and hope for the best. Since the paint dries quickly, I may be able to level the finish somewhat between coats, if necessary.
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masked 6- smaller image.jpg (76KB - 0 downloads)
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Just in case you are curious, the bowl has been wet-sanded to 2000-grit. |
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Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | 
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Location: When?? | Say now... that's as pretty of a little lap slipper as I ever saw!
(except for a blonde I once knew in St. Louis) |
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November 2002
Posts: 3611
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Thanks Guys! Just shot the 1st coat. Will wait a few hours for the next one. Want to build it up kinda slow, but get it to flow correctly. Keeping my fingers crossed & eyes skyward. |
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | If you're shooting with lacquer, you only need to wait until the previous coat is dry to the touch.
No matter how long you wait, subsequent coats of lacquer will melt into the previous coats. No need to sand between coats, either, for the very same reason.
The idea is to build up a coating of about 4-6 mils (3-4 sheets of printer paper) so that you have enough finish on there so that when you do start cutting and polishing that you don't burn through it.
With lacquer, you'll need to let it sit for a few weeks while it hardens before cutting and polishing.
Edited by DanSavage 2022-02-16 6:57 PM
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Pandora II- The GCDB Restoration
