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Installing an Op-Pro

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   Forums Archive -> The Vault: 2007Message format
 
DLHCustomBalladeer
Posted 2007-07-17 12:34 PM (#90155)
Subject: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
July 2007
Posts: 13

Hey guys, I am new here. Can anyone give me some tips on how to replace and FET 3 system with an Op-Pro system? or even refer a place in the NYC area that could do it? Thanks.
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mtnbikerfred
Posted 2007-07-17 2:08 PM (#90156 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
March 2005
Posts: 1421

Location: Orange County, California
There is this little place in New Hartford CT....

Seriously,

Routering the bowl for the oval pre-amp can is going to be the toughest (riskiest) part.
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Trader Jim
Posted 2007-07-17 2:11 PM (#90157 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
June 2006
Posts: 7307

Location: South of most, North of few
Send it to the factory. Best leave it to the professionals. Probably be cheaper (less shipping) too.
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CrimsonLake
Posted 2007-07-17 2:30 PM (#90158 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
August 2006
Posts: 3145

Location: Marlton, NJ
I've done two of them so far with a third on the way. The hardest part is locating where to put the can. Once you have the location traced out, the rest is fairly simple.
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moody, p.i.
Posted 2007-07-17 2:32 PM (#90159 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15667

Location: SoCal
Is the FET preamp in your guitar just a knob or is it a rectangular box w/ knob and sliders? If it't the former, there shouldn't be a problem. If it's the latter, then the new preamp won't fit.
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mtnbikerfred
Posted 2007-07-17 2:53 PM (#90160 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
March 2005
Posts: 1421

Location: Orange County, California
Nothin' a little fiberglass wont fix...
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DLHCustomBalladeer
Posted 2007-07-17 2:55 PM (#90161 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
July 2007
Posts: 13

The FET3 is a knob with 3 sliders. I know it won't fit in that hole and will require some modification. When I contacted the factory, they said that they weren't doing upgrades. I plan on calling them again when they reopen if I can't find another option. As for locating the can, I was hoping to have it placed where the current preamp is, after it is modded.
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DLHCustomBalladeer
Posted 2007-07-17 3:10 PM (#90162 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
July 2007
Posts: 13

Originally posted by CrimsonLake:
I've done two of them so far with a third on the way. The hardest part is locating where to put the can. Once you have the location traced out, the rest is fairly simple.
does this mean that you had two done, or you did them?
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moody, p.i.
Posted 2007-07-17 3:13 PM (#90163 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15667

Location: SoCal
You're going to end up with holes in your guitar from the old preamp, next to where the new preamp will go. Unless you're going to do a patch and repair job, I wouldn't even consider it. Either get a new guitar or don't mess with it. That FET3 preamp was a pretty good unit.
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mtnbikerfred
Posted 2007-07-17 3:19 PM (#90164 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
March 2005
Posts: 1421

Location: Orange County, California
Or you could get an Optima and the XLR board...
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CrimsonLake
Posted 2007-07-17 3:21 PM (#90165 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
August 2006
Posts: 3145

Location: Marlton, NJ
DLH - I did them myself, but moody is right, unless the locations of the old amp and the new amp line up, you'll end up with extra holes. From looking at my guitars,they don't line up very well.

I didn't replace an amp like the FET3 - I added an OpPro to an acoustic only and replaced a single knob amp on the other guitar.

Again - I agree with moody - keep the existing amp or find an acoustic only to upgrade.
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DLHCustomBalladeer
Posted 2007-07-17 3:47 PM (#90166 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
July 2007
Posts: 13

Crimson,

Any chance you could post a pic to show me what you are talking about? I don't understand where the hole will be. Isn't the can for the op-pro bigger than the hole for the fet3? If so, why would there be a hole left over? Wouldn't the current hole, need to be made larger?
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CrimsonLake
Posted 2007-07-17 3:53 PM (#90167 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
August 2006
Posts: 3145

Location: Marlton, NJ
DHL - The OpPro is contoured to fit the curve of the body and sits in the deepest part of the curve. The FET is rectangular and at least on mine, sits on a flat spot to the right of the curve. While the holes would overlap, there would be a significant portion of the old hole remaining uncovered.
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moody, p.i.
Posted 2007-07-17 3:58 PM (#90168 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15667

Location: SoCal
The reason the factory doesn't do this conversion is that the factory can't do it w/o replacing the entire bowl...
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DLHCustomBalladeer
Posted 2007-07-17 4:04 PM (#90169 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
July 2007
Posts: 13

Originally posted by moody, p.i.:
The reason the factory doesn't do this conversion is that the factory can't do it w/o replacing the entire bowl...
Actually, the person I spoke with via email, said they don't do any upgrades period. At that point, I wanted to upgrade my Korean Celebrity's OP-20 with the OP-Pro. They told me that I could replace the 20 with a 40, but the pro would require a different pup, which I have. There was no discussion about bowl replacement. As for the Balladeer, a hole would have to be drilled for the XLR out, next to the 1/4" and I would have thought that the current fet 3 hole would need to be enlarged. What am i missing?
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CrimsonLake
Posted 2007-07-17 4:31 PM (#90170 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
August 2006
Posts: 3145

Location: Marlton, NJ
I'll try and take a couple of pics later on. You're right about the XLR.
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moody, p.i.
Posted 2007-07-17 4:33 PM (#90171 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15667

Location: SoCal
The OP20 and OP40 have the same shape but totally different electronics, including the jacks. To change from the 20 to the 40, everything in the guitar needs to be swapped out.

We were talking about the difference between the FET3 and the OP series, which the factory won't and can't do w/o a new bowl.
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DLHCustomBalladeer
Posted 2007-07-17 4:34 PM (#90172 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
July 2007
Posts: 13

I appreciate the help. I didn't think I would like the 1862 as much as I do. I just picked it up for $250 with case and love it. I snatched up the Korean celebrity for $100 out of a store because of a paint problem. I bought that to mess with on the beach and was surprised by the quality of it. When the 1862 became available I had to grab it to see what the difference is. The 1862 is much nicer and has a thicker tone, but the celebrity is quite nice.
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moody, p.i.
Posted 2007-07-17 4:36 PM (#90173 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15667

Location: SoCal
Where are you located? You don't have any personal info up....
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DLHCustomBalladeer
Posted 2007-07-17 4:44 PM (#90174 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
July 2007
Posts: 13

Originally posted by moody, p.i.:
Where are you located? You don't have any personal info up....
Sorry about that. I am located in NYC.
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Thanksforallthefish
Posted 2007-07-17 5:58 PM (#90175 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro
Joined:
November 2004
Posts: 1374

Originally posted by moody, p.i.:
Where are you located? You don't have any personal info up....
damn private investigators... :D
never slow down for a minute..and always on the job.

Welcome DLH... CrimsonLake did an upgrade(great job!)for me on the 1613, and will soon be doing an 1114 the same way with a thinline instead of OPP... but they're right the best option for upgrade is the OP-X very minimal modification, and will look like oem.

Glenn
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DLHCustomBalladeer
Posted 2007-07-17 7:18 PM (#90176 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
July 2007
Posts: 13

Originally posted by Amazingly-Detached..:
Originally posted by moody, p.i.:
Where are you located? You don't have any personal info up....
damn private investigators... :D
never slow down for a minute..and always on the job.

Welcome DLH... CrimsonLake did an upgrade(great job!)for me on the 1613, and will soon be doing an 1114 the same way with a thinline instead of OPP... but they're right the best option for upgrade is the OP-X very minimal modification, and will look like oem.

Glenn
I am not familiar with what you said. The upgrades that Crimson did for you, were they similiar to what I want? Also, i just looked at the op-x and it doesn't appear to have a tuner, which is something I would really like to have.
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CrimsonLake
Posted 2007-07-17 7:27 PM (#90177 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
August 2006
Posts: 3145

Location: Marlton, NJ
The upgrade that I did for Glenn involved replacing a single knob preamp - so only two small hole to worry about - one of which was covered by the oppro, the other was capped with a black plug.



The white oval in the picture shows where the OpPro would have to go (approximately). That whole part of the FET-3 not covered by the white oval would be a gaping hole that would have to be filled.
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mtnbikerfred
Posted 2007-07-17 7:38 PM (#90178 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
March 2005
Posts: 1421

Location: Orange County, California
The Optima, OP-24 +C, OP-24E (Only E), all have a tuner and fit in the rectangular cut-out.
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cruster
Posted 2007-07-17 7:53 PM (#90179 - in reply to #90155)
Subject: Re: Installing an Op-Pro


Joined:
May 2004
Posts: 2850

Location: Midland, MI
How do the OP-24 derivatives (+C, E, etc.) sound compared to the much revered OP-24? I might consider upgrading to one with a tuner if it's not a) cost prohibitive and b) doesn't change the tone (like I ever plug it in).
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