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Location: Jönköping, Sweden | I just bought my second ovation (about 25 years after m first one).
It´s a 12 string that should be biult in 1988.
I´ve looked through all the Internet, but couldn´t find anyone looking exactly the same.
One or more of there four details always seem different from mine:
- the body shape (I believe it's known as "noncutaway")
- the symmetrical sound holes
- the shape at the end of the fretboard (could it be non original?)
- the model of the bridge (the thin palstic piece)
I'll try to attach a picture, maybe someone here can help me with model number?
(Yes, the bridge is broken, but I got a good price and will try to make some repairs...)
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Location: Jet City | You have a Celebrity. If you're using the serial number to determine the year, that won't work. The serial number method only works for USA made guitars.
CS245 maybe? |
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Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | THIS
is a cc267.
It is your guitars cousin.
So I started searching for numbers close to CC267, and I found a CC266 HERE
This is a Pawn Shop in Asia somewhere... (scroll down the page)
So that is a Celebrity CC266.
It is probably, maybe 1993-1994 because that is when the CC267 was made.
Helpful? 
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Location: Boise, Idaho | Where would we be without OMA? |
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Location: When?? | Mark in Boise - 2016-09-14 10:54 AM Where would we be without OMA? We'd quite often be lost and wandering, that's for sure! He is the guiding light to the Ovation days of our lives. I don't have kids, but in another world I would tell all my children that they only have one life to live, and to stop being so young and restless and to pay more attention to wise people like Old Man Arthur. Otherwise, as kids are today, they will surely end up in the psycho ward over at the general hospital. |
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Location: Jönköping, Sweden | Thanks for the help!
It wan't easy to find, not knowing where to start...
I'm sure you'll have the opportunity to answer some more questions during my restoration.
I might even upload some pics... |
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Location: Jönköping, Sweden | She arrived today, and the sticker inside actually sais it's a CC265.
Also, it looks a lot better irl than on the pics. |
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Location: Jönköping, Sweden | So, today I started som work on the guitar...
After carefully removing the bridge, it didn't look exactly the way I expected / hoped underneath.
However, the top of the guitar seems quite straight even if it has a couple of cracks.
After the new bridge is on, I'll decide how much more work it needs.
Any tips about what glue to use for the bridge, and how I should do to get the surface more even before gluing?
Edited by stefannordh 2016-09-18 3:28 PM
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Location: Jönköping, Sweden | Pics
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Location: Jönköping, Sweden | 1 more
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Location: Katmandu | Oh gosh, I can barely look at that picture, with the bridge being torn off like that! It seems part of the upper layer of the top came down at the same time as well. My hearts breaks... |
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Location: Boise, Idaho | I think you are right Leonard. Maybe a couple of the layers of laminate came up with the bridge. I'm not sure that smoothing the top under the bridge will improve adhesion. It might be better to glue the bridge back down as is, if it fits tightly into all the bumps and valleys of the top. Wait for some of the experts to respond before you start scraping. You might end up with a big gap that would have to be filled with glue. |
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Location: Canada | Mark in Boise - 2016-09-19 12:42 PM I think you are right Leonard. Maybe a couple of the layers of laminate came up with the bridge. I'm not sure that smoothing the top under the bridge will improve adhesion. It might be better to glue the bridge back down as is, if it fits tightly into all the bumps and valleys of the top. Wait for some of the experts to respond before you start scraping. You might end up with a big gap that would have to be filled with glue. Yes just glue the bridger back on as the wood-wood adhesion should work well, and put two bolts through the bridge for added support. |
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Location: Boise, Idaho | I think it's 3 bolts for the 12 string, but he also asked for a recommendation on what glue to use. |
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Location: Canada | Mark in Boise - 2016-09-19 2:43 PM I think it's 3 bolts for the 12 string, but he also asked for a recommendation on what glue to use. No idea about glue, but the Celebrity alaready had bolts, picture shows the holes too. Maybe a stronger plate (maple?) inside under the bridge could help too for reinforcement. |
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Location: Yokohama, Japan | stefannordh - 2016-09-18 5:21 AM
So, today I started som work on the guitar...
After carefully removing the bridge, it didn't look exactly the way I expected / hoped underneath.
However, the top of the guitar seems quite straight even if it has a couple of cracks.
After the new bridge is on, I'll decide how much more work it needs.
Any tips about what glue to use for the bridge, and how I should do to get the surface more even before gluing?
Hi stefannordh, That's a heart wrenching photograph there. I hope you don't mind my pitching in on your thread, but I think you've got the CC-265 in the Autumn Burst (AB) color scheme. Ovation tribute has a Japanese catalog at this link.
http://www.ovationtribute.com/Catalogues/1993_Ovation_Jp_Vol_2_Catalog/1993_Ovation_Jp_Vol_2_Catalog.html
If you look at page 9, you'll see what I mean. I think it is identical right down to the 3 slider pre-amp. The specs of the CC-265 are on page 10 (any thoughts OMA?). There's been a lot of discussion about adhesives here, and normal circumstances would require Hide Glue or one of the Titebond products; but for extreme applications like this one, the king of adhesives (at least the consensus seems to be) is Loctite's Hysol 9462. Can you get that stuff in Sweden? I think Henkel (the parent Co. of Loctite is German), so you can probably find it in Sweden??? I can't get it in Japan, so I had to buy the stuff while in the States and bring it back with me to Japan.
Anyway, Hysol 9462 is powerful stuff. The photo shows the glue container and the application gun. DanSavage has the most experience with it, and he discusses the specs in quite a lot of detail in some other threads. I took his advice and have used it on broken necks, torn up bridges (like yours), and I've had great results. The stuff has a light tan color; and you can add pigmentation to change the color, just a bit. I've mixed black and brown pigmentation quite satisfactorily in my projects. The stuff sets after 24 hours and is quite workable. I've found that it gets quite hard after 48 hours (which is the recommended cure time). I hope this is helpful and good luck with your project! |
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Location: Jönköping, Sweden | Gluing the bridge back on is no option, as you can see on the pic.
I bought the guitar for SEK 1.000 ($ 110) and will try my skills on it.
I've ordered a new bridge, but it will need a smooth surface to stick on, I'll give the Hysol 9462 a try as a filler.
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Location: Yokohama, Japan | stefannordh - 2016-09-20 6:05 AM
Gluing the bridge back on is no option, as you can see on the pic.
I bought the guitar for SEK 1.000 ($ 110) and will try my skills on it.
I've ordered a new bridge, but it will need a smooth surface to stick on, I'll give the Hysol 9462 a try as a filler.
Ooh...a double ouch! But since you can apparently get Hysol 9462 it should work out okay. If this were my project, I would make a very shallow route, maybe 0.5mm to 1.0mm (hard to tell the depth by the photo, but...) just where the old glue is (not under the whole bridge as the fringes should help to hold the bridge securely). Cut a thin maple veneer sheet to the size of the route. Glue and fill the route with Hysol and make sure that I have a completely flat surface, then glue on the new bridge using Hysol again. If the laminated sound board has not broken all the way through under the bridge, that should be all you need to do.
But then, I'm not a luthier, just a hack, so I would take my advice with a grain of salt! I'm sure with a bit of patience, one of the more savvy heavy hitters will be along to give some proper advice. It looks like the chances of a successful rebuild are very very high. Good luck.
Edited by arumako 2016-09-20 5:43 PM
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Location: Boise, Idaho | I wonder who drilled that hole in the center of the bridge. The picture of the 12 string that OMA posted shows plugs for two bolts, but your bridge and guitar show three holes. Maybe there was a previous repair attempt that failed or possibly contributed to the broken bridge. Let us know if the replacement bridge has two holes or three.
After looking again at the pictures, I can't tell if any of the top came up with the bridge or if pieces of the bridge were left on the top. |
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Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Mark, the photo I posted was a CC266. This is a CC265.
My USA 1155 has three bolts, as do all of the Pacemakers that I have owned.
Asian-made guitars can be weird. 
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Location: Des Moines, Iowa | Just jumping in to give me condolences, cause I feel the pain as though the bridge was ripped out of me after having been torn apart itself. I had a somewhat similar rescue of an old 1979 Ovation Legend model 1617, but with that gaping wound it was pieces of the bridge that were left behind and no loss of top surface.
Good luck with the rescue! |
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Location: Des Moines, Iowa | Also... that sure is a pretty looking guitar. I never really pay much attention to the Celebrity models. Once I see the CC in front of the model, I usually move along... but maybe I'm not really being fair. I know many Celebrity models will catch my eye, maybe I should let one catch my ear, too. Are they spruce-topped?
Edited by SillyLittleBoy 2016-10-01 9:54 PM
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Location: Jönköping, Sweden | It seems like Hysol 9462 isn't that easy to find here. On ebay i can get 50 ml for about 110$ - that's the price of the guitar...
I'm planning to try use traditional hide glue for the bridge, but I'm not sure it works well as a filler for the cavity under the bridge.
Any tips and ideas what to use as filler and/or glue as alternative?
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Location: Katmandu | Why not just patch in the ripped off spot with spruce and hide glue? |
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Location: Jönköping, Sweden | The small piece of broken spruce is glued back in place, and I've removed most of the old glue from the shallow cavity under the bridge.
I'm guessing that hide glue is a good adhesive, but maybe not that good for filling the empty space under the bridge, or am I wrong.
I tried another kind of epoxy today on a piece of wood, and tomorrow I will check the properties. I'm guessig that I would want it quite hard so it will transfer the sound as good as posible from the bridge to the body.
How is that for an idea? Would it be better to use the hide glue "all the way"?
Edited by stefannordh 2016-10-04 4:59 PM
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What did I buy?
