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going flat black?
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| playdbluz |
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Joined: February 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Virginia | I want to customize my 1597 all flat black. I know the appliques will come off, just leaving the holes. After that, can Mother (or someone who specializes in custom work get the binding and the top flat? AM I asking too much? I am weighing the cost of doing this versus building from scratch and I think a mod puts me ahead. THanks for any input | ||
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| playdbluz |
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Joined: February 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Virginia | sorry. slow connection. I clicked twice and this posted twice. MODS feel free to delete one. Thanks | ||
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| Old Man Arthur |
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Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777 Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | What color is the 1597 now? | ||
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| playdbluz |
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Joined: February 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Virginia | shiny black. | ||
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| playdbluz |
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Joined: February 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Virginia | white binding..which I think can't just be "painted over" | ||
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| playdbluz |
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Joined: February 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Virginia | I guess I was thinking the oak leafs could be pulled off, the bonding and face sanded, and then a flat finish could be applied. Ive refinished a lot of things, but never a guitar. | ||
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| Old Man Arthur |
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Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777 Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Before you consider sanding stuff... You realize that the top is not Wood, Right? And you would have to remove or sand the finish to get rid of the gloss top. But you could peel the epaulets off and get some Krylon undercoat and make a 1597T. | ||
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| playdbluz |
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Joined: February 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Virginia | Of course. I wouldnt consider doing this myself. I was just thinking I couldn't be the first guy who wanted to Rat Rod an Adamas. | ||
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| Old Man Arthur |
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Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777 Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Originally posted by playdbluz: Of course. I wouldnt consider doing this myself. I was just thinking I couldn't be the first guy who wanted to Rat Rod an Adamas. Aw... Don't be shy! Woody can give you tips! :cool: | ||
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| playdbluz |
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Joined: February 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Virginia | Im not even seeing a 1597T on a google search. I like the look of the Elite 1778TX... no too far from what Im shooting for. Really? I can use Krylon? I wouldnt be afraid of doing that myself! | ||
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| playdbluz |
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Joined: February 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Virginia | HAHA... I hard-strutted an 81 hondamatic 400 for my son and painted the whole thing with truck bed liner.. its actually good looking. I am not afraid of spray can! | ||
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| Gallerinski |
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| Joined: May 2008 Posts: 4996 Location: Phoenix AZ | I would just paint the whole thing black. Paint right over the fig leaves. The 3D effect will be kinda cool. Paint the binding as well. | ||
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| cliff |
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Joined: March 2002 Posts: 14842 Location: NJ | frets. don't forget th'frets. | ||
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| playdbluz |
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Joined: February 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Virginia | IF anyone has actually done this with success, Id be interested in their process. I am not one to spend too much time fudging over getting started...and considering the price pot I got my 1597 for... anything I do, I can undo. Im not too worried. Who's my source for flat black tuners? Bridge? String knobs? | ||
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| noah |
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Joined: December 2004 Posts: 1673 Location: SoCal | I'd remove the leaves, mask-off the bowl, bridge and neck. Then using a mini sandblaster (wood working/carving or glass etching supplier), carefully blast the binding and top. Once you have the desired surface effect, stain the binding black. You might like it, if not, then resort to paint. | ||
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| playdbluz |
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Joined: February 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Virginia | hmmm... ok. How about a chemical that'll take the finish and leave the graphite unharmed? | ||
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| noah |
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Joined: December 2004 Posts: 1673 Location: SoCal | Why use chemicals to remove the finish when you can get a mini-blaster kit for less than 50 bucks and control the effect. It's shiny black. Gently etching a surface removes the shine and leaves a nice smooth surface. I've never done the top of a guitar, but I've used it on other projects. Larger objects, I bring up to a local custom glass shop and their guy applies the effect I need. | ||
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| playdbluz |
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Joined: February 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Virginia | Cliff, Ive thought about the frets. Im going to have to weigh re-fretting versus a replacement neck. I will probably get the face right and then decide if the silver works for me.... I might consider stainless hardware to contrast the black... save the refretting all together. I think I may like stainless and black as well as all black... time will tell | ||
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| playdbluz |
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Joined: February 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Virginia | Thanks Noah. If I do a couple practice runs on other surfaces, is this a technique I can get down without a huge learning curve? | ||
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| playdbluz |
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Joined: February 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Virginia | Noah, if I get this gently down to graphite, will the graphite mark up my hand as I play? | ||
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| Slipkid |
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Joined: September 2003 Posts: 9301 Location: south east Michigan | If this is getting to complicated, I just posted a flat black EliteT in the For Sale section. | ||
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| Oddball |
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Joined: March 2007 Posts: 843 Location: CA | Not sure how may e-tongues are in cheek on these posts but you're gonna ruin that guitar unless you send it to the mothership and have them do what you want. I expect that will be pricey. If you decide to do it yourself, please please please get ahold of the cheapest, crappiest already beat-up Applause or Celeb and sacrifice that as a test mule before you start on the Adamas. If you're happy with those results, then do the 1597. To each his own, but I think in the long run you will regret 'rat rodding' an Adamas. Besides looking different, it won't sound the same and the resale value will be next to nothing. Sorry to be preachy, just can't sit idly by and let you actually spray Krylon on a guitar I've lusted after for years (but could never afford) without saying something. I'll go away now. | ||
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| playdbluz |
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Joined: February 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Virginia | Oddball, if I could get the look of your pewter and the sound of my 1597, Id be set I got into this 1597 for 600. Its a fine player, but no wallhanger. Still, It looks good from 5 feet away and I wouldnt be ashamed to gig out with it. It will be my last purchase until I can afford a contour...but then, I will still want the look I am designing on that as well!! WHich makes me want to throw a big bowl on this while I am making the changes, which effectively takes me all the way to an up from the ground" custom... Currently there is a little raising of the appliques at the edges. No Biggie. I am pretty sure I will like the guitar better without them. I have decided on stainless hardware and everything else flat. GAS is nothing compared to Hotrodder Syndrome | ||
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| stonebobbo |
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Joined: August 2002 Posts: 8307 Location: Tennessee | Think about brushed nickel hardware instead of stainless steel. The Sperzel tuners on the OFC2 guitar might be just what your looking for. Mi dos pesos ... Go ahead and do it. It's not like a 1597 is a highly sought after piece. If you do it carefully and right, you may very well make yours worth more money than now, for the right buyer at least. I'd take off the tuners, mask off the bridge and fretboard, and spray a bunch of real light coats of the ultra flat Krylon. See if you can get a black saddle and black nut from the factory ... Same ones as on the OFC2. I think it would be real cool. It would definitely be a hit with the DJ Ashba and Mick Thompson crowd .. and there's LOTS of those. Do it. Let us know how it turns out. | ||
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| playdbluz |
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Joined: February 2010 Posts: 79 Location: Virginia | Thanks, bobo. Your suggestions go into the notebook. :) | ||
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going flat black?