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April 2008
Posts: 2336
Location: Brighty in Blighty | Hi,
I need to get hold of Fiebings Professional Oil Dye (black) to restain my 84Cs bridge.
I am based in the UK. Suppliers in the US will not ship to the UK and there only seems to be wholesale sellers of the stuff in the UK.
So can anyone help? |
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February 2002
Posts: 5750
Location: Scotland | If you can't find that particular product, black ink will work fine. |
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April 2008
Posts: 2336
Location: Brighty in Blighty | Well there's a thing...
http://www.theleathercare.co.uk/leather_dyes.html
Has anyone actually used this stuff?
Mauvis Beal (still not too sure who this is) reckons its the stuff to use... |
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Joined:
April 2008
Posts: 2336
Location: Brighty in Blighty | Ooops - actually I beleive it was Kim Keller who recommended the Fiebings... (anyhow who he? - sorry for my ignorance).
Its odd not even too sure why it was recommeded that the bridge be stained black as looking at the original 84C pics on the O site, the walnut bridge doesn't look black! Hmm...
I had planned to remove string and saddle then masking tape the body around the bridge then apply with a small paint brush. Do I have to rub off, let dry etc etc???
Should I actually do this? |
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October 2005
Posts: 4046
Location: Utah | Kim is the head honcho for customer service at the Mother Ship. He doesn't have a daughter named Amy. |
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April 2008
Posts: 2336
Location: Brighty in Blighty | Ritghto so if he says use balck stain - then black stain it is. Still wondering how to actually use it... |
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May 2006
Posts: 4226
Location: Steeler Nation, Hudson Valley Contingent | Your sense of timing is eerie today Dweezil. First you ask about Kim right after I tried to call him, and now this, look what I did yesterday.
I wasn't going to post these until later for several reasons. I couldn't take a good "after" picture because the weather and lighting changed. I also worked on my Custom balladeer and haven't taken all the pics yet.
The process is straightforward: Make VERY sure the tape is tight around the bridge as this stuff Houdinis its way through the smallest spaces. Work quickly because it will wipe off inlays (abalone ones anyway, not wood) and the finish if it has not dried (or seeped into a crack). The little bit of leakage you can see behind the bridge in the second to last picture wiped right off with a tissue.
Scuff the wood with some very fine steel wool or sand paper. Brush the dye on. Wipe it off immediately. Repeat if necessary in about 10 or 15 minutes. I restrung the mando less than an hour after the second application.
Oh yeah, whatever else you do with this stuff, wear gloves! I repeat, wear gloves! This dye seems nearly intelligent in its ability to get around.
The 84C seems to have a natural walnut bridge as you describe, but the ebony would look good too. If you like it like it is, there's nothing wrong with leaving it like that either. |
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March 2005
Posts: 12758
Location: Boise, Idaho | and line up those string ends when you finish. |
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Joined:
March 2005
Posts: 12758
Location: Boise, Idaho | and line up those string ends when you finish. If you're going to be obsessive, you may as well go all the way. |
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May 2006
Posts: 4226
Location: Steeler Nation, Hudson Valley Contingent | Originally posted by Mark in Boise:
and line up those string ends when you finish. Always. :rolleyes:
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April 2008
Posts: 2336
Location: Brighty in Blighty | Awesome work - THANKS!!!
So I have ordered the dye but now seriously starting to wonder whether it's the thing to do.
1. Why did Kim and Mauvis Beal (again who he) suggest doing it?
2. The originals were not dyed.
3. Although I doubt the 84 could be devalued more (holes and neck binding scrapes) I think I kinda like the dark brown walnut look. I canjot see myself parting with it, it's my DADGAD funkster! |
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August 2002
Posts: 8307
Location: Tennessee | Originally posted by dweezil:
Mauvis Beal (again who he) Beal used to work at the factory "back in the day" and he worked his way through a slew of different jobs and ended up having a hand in a whole bunch of Ovation history. |
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December 2006
Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | Just keep the bridge natural and keep applying lemon oil during string changes. It will darken and further expose the grain. |
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April 2008
Posts: 2336
Location: Brighty in Blighty | @stonebobbo - ta.
@2ifbyC - now we are talking, a much better idea, I like.
Anyhow the 84C is running on DADF#AD for some Sheebeg & Sheemore tonight, gonna nail that sucker - a beautiful tune made all the better when watching England show the USA what football (or perhaps soccar?) is all about (at least I hope). |
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March 2005
Posts: 12758
Location: Boise, Idaho | Beal used to sign on as CWKII, which was a bit easier to decipher before us newbies said something like, "how come you know so much?" |
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April 2006
Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | I agree with Iffy , allthough once a year would do , personally , I do n`t do anything ( `xept the occasional wipe ) , what`s with all that black anyway..Long Live that Walnut !
Vic |
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April 2006
Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | Originally posted by dweezil:
@stonebobbo - ta.
@2ifbyC - now we are talking, a much better idea, I like.
Anyhow the 84C is running on DADF#AD for some Sheebeg & Sheemore tonight, gonna nail that sucker - a beautiful tune made all the better when watching England show the USA what football (or perhaps soccar?) is all about (at least I hope). [/QUOT
..as in , " Russa showed England what Football was all about " ?..
Well , we have a fair chance to get the European Cup.. :)
Vic
PM sent.. |
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September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Originally posted by 2ifbyC:
Just keep the bridge natural and keep applying lemon oil during string changes. It will darken and further expose the grain. My sentiments... sorta :rolleyes:
I was thinking that with a rosewood fingerboard, I would leave it alone and oil it regularly.
With an Ebony fret board I MIGHT want a black bridge... I would still have to think about it.
Both my 1121 and 1621 have Ebony fret boards, and I am quite happy with the old (aged) natural brown bridges |
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April 2006
Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | Good Thinkin` Arthur...yet a little contrast could be nice ..
Vic |
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December 2006
Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | Just an after thought, if your looking for a more subdued look, order a black saddle if available for your git from the MS. It's subtle but yet a change that would make many ask, "There's something neat here. What is it?"
Some like contrast, others prefer blending... Then there are the rest that just want what you have and visa versa! :D |
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May 2006
Posts: 4226
Location: Steeler Nation, Hudson Valley Contingent | Originally posted by Old Man Arthur:
I was thinking that with a rosewood fingerboard, I would leave it alone and oil it regularly.
With an Ebony fret board I MIGHT want a black bridge... I would still have to think about it.
Both my 1121 and 1621 have Ebony fret boards, and I am quite happy with the old (aged) natural brown bridges Now you're getting closer to my train of thought. I did two of these projects, the mando pictured above and my Custom Balladeer (pics to follow when I can get good ones). I prefer an ebony bridge with an ebony fretboard and would likewise prefer the walnut if the fretboard was rosewood. Additionally, both of my projects had noticeable cosmetic issues on the bridge. The mando's had grooves, and the CB's had some bad scratching from some begginer doofus with too violent a pick attack. (That would be me. :rolleyes: )
I did not want to sand away the grooves entirely as that might have compromised the bridge. Likewise on the CB, I was afraid of sanding too much off the top to even out the scratching. So I used the dye to help cover what I could not sand out.
Also, the mando was my chance to experiment before performing surgery on my beloved 12'er. It's being traded to GC for another instrument, so I did not stand to lose very much by trying. And I have to admit, on that natural top it looks way better than the walnut did. If I ever keep a natural mando, I'm doing it again. ;) :cool: |
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June 2007
Posts: 270
Location: Yorkshire, England | It doesn't look like this Fiebings stuff is specifically for wood, if that's the case, there are leather dyes you can buy from the UK (Woolworth's for instance) that will do the job. (Shoe dye) I may need to do a little work in this direction on the fretboard of a soon-to-arrive Breadwinner. |
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Joined:
April 2008
Posts: 2336
Location: Brighty in Blighty | You can get the Fiebings dye in the UK...
http://www.theleathercare.co.uk/leather_dyes.html |
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Joined:
February 2003
Posts: 2177
Location: the BIG Metropolis of TR | Originally posted by Captain Black:
It doesn't look like this Fiebings stuff is specifically for wood.... Fiebings is fantastic for wood (especially ebony!) as good if not better than the aniline dyes used to color wood.
Here I've used it on two pre-slotted ebony fretboards I got from Quality Music,which had brown streaking.....
I also used it to even out the streaking in the Macassar ebony I used to veneer the front and back of the peghead! (you can see how streaked the ebony was from the backside piece)....
This stuff works great....but like Patch mentioned,it will get into/onto anything!! (If theres a crack this stuff will find it!! :eek: :D ) |
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December 2003
Posts: 1889
Location: Central Massachusetts | Now THAT is a peghead! lol |
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HELP! Fiebings Proffesional Oil Dye in UK!
