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Forums Archive -> The Vault: 2006 | Message format |
Norseman1![]() |
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Joined: May 2002 Posts: 1026 Location: Back in the Valley of the Sun Mesa Az. | Hi, I did a search with not much for results. Was wondering if anyone has advice on what to do with a small, what appears to be a finish crack (about 3/4 inch) just below the bridge. Here's the deal...the crack is very minor, and does not bother me much at all...my concern is that if left as it is...will it grow and grow and grow over time? The soundboard really vibrates when being played, and I'm afraid with changes in weather/humidity over the seasons here in Minnesota that this crack will grow. I've repaired my Pacemaker finish cracks by applying superglue into the crack....the cracks did not grow, but the superglue made an unsightly ridge where the cracks are. Any ideas? am I better off just leaving it alone? Thanks for the input! Norse(not very talented at repairs)man1 | ||
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an4340![]() |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389 Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | I like to stabilize them. Previous threads discuss how: http://www.ovationfanclub.com/cgi-bin/ubb/non-cgi/ultimatebb.php?ub... http://www.ovationfanclub.com/cgi-bin/ubb/non-cgi/ultimatebb.php?ub... If you have a relationship with your local luthier, he'll probably give you the glue for free in a little pipette. It's such a small quantitiy. You need really thin glue for this operation, not superglue, it's too thick. And apply sparingly. Stew Mac #10 glue. The thinest. | ||
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Mark in Boise![]() |
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Joined: March 2005 Posts: 12759 Location: Boise, Idaho | I have 3 small finish cracks like that in the Custom Balladeer. They've been there for at least a couple years, probably many more and they haven't changed at all. | ||
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Norseman1![]() |
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Joined: May 2002 Posts: 1026 Location: Back in the Valley of the Sun Mesa Az. | stew mac glue..thanks I'll check into it. | ||
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Paul Blanchard![]() |
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Joined: February 2002 Posts: 1817 Location: Minden, Nebraska | Norse, I don't take on this kind of project myself -- being rather antagonistic toward ridges of glue -- but I have read other threads on the subject including posts from those who do work with filling these cracks. If memory serves, the superglue is usually diluted some in order to flow into the crack AND the residue is quickly cleaned up. But I suggest a search on the subject. | ||
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Norseman1![]() |
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Joined: May 2002 Posts: 1026 Location: Back in the Valley of the Sun Mesa Az. | I was checking into the Steward MacDonald glue, and apparently they have just that...a diluted superglue. I can order a bottle for about four bucks. I'm not sure how to dilute superglue, so I think I may just purchase a bottle of this stewmac glue. Unless someone knows what to use to dilute superglue? Thanks all for the replies... I think I have a plan of action now! | ||
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gh1![]() |
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Joined: April 2006 Posts: 972 Location: PDX | I'd be interested in your appraisal of how it worked out for you when you've completed the job, if you wouldn't mind sharing? _____ gh1 | ||
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Norseman1![]() |
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Joined: May 2002 Posts: 1026 Location: Back in the Valley of the Sun Mesa Az. | yea youbetcha I will! | ||
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an4340![]() |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389 Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | It worked great on my ovation celebrity. Sold it to someone name John Lennon, (I kid you not!) and he loves it. Did the same for my country artist and it looks beautiful. Based on my experience with my celebrity, if you let them grow they become harder to repair as gunk gets into the crack. If you can live with the crack then who cares, it's not fatal and adds character. My appraisal is ... do it! | ||
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an4340![]() |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389 Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | Oh, yea, clean the area first with naphtha and let dry. | ||
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gh1![]() |
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Joined: April 2006 Posts: 972 Location: PDX | Originally posted by an4340: Really? Wouldn't the Naptha disolve the finish? Oh, yea, clean the area first with naphtha and let dry. I don't know. i use Naptha on the raw wood of my fretboard, but i am always very careful to keep it off the finish. Just curious -- it would be nice to know that i am being paranoid and can relax a bit when cleaning the fretboards. _____ gh1 | ||
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MWoody![]() |
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Joined: December 2003 Posts: 13996 Location: Upper Left USA | The Poly-your-ethane finish on the O's is imervious to anything except physical attacks. Naptha is good to use on lacquer (no reaction) while Alcohol or mineral spirits may have issues. Lighter fluid is almost all naptha I believe. Ventilation and location (don't leave spots on your furniture) are important! | ||
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an4340![]() |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389 Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | You're being paranoid. I've used naphtha on polyutherane, danish oil, nitro and linseed oil based finsihes. Not a problem. Think about the sweat, or beer that falls on it in a bar or food handed to you at barbeques ... mmmh ... barbeque! Now, don't dunk it in a bath of the stuff, but a nice wipe of it will NOT hurt your guitar. | ||
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Tony Calman![]() |
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Joined: August 2003 Posts: 4619 Location: SoCal | this doesn't apply to the solid bodies. Ovation uses a catalyzed polyester. Thick and hard. Note that in the last ? 10yrs, the factory is using a thinner finish but you can still do this procedure. Yes, you can seal a finish crack and in some cases eliminate the crack completely. You can use CyA or water soluble glue to fill and build up the surface. CyA spillage can be wiped off of the surface with CyA thinner - doesn't damage the finish or dull the surface. Old cracks will have dirt and other in the crack -I have taken a needle or an old dental pick to scribe out the crack. Can use acrylic paint to attempt to match the top finish - especially if a darker finish. Nice part of this is you can mix the paint on the top next to the crack until you have a good match; then wipe excess off. Even if you can't eliminate the crack, could simulate the grain. Process is to clean the crack, fill, build up, sand, fill, sand, and buff. I use the sanding pads from StewMac (1,500-12,000grit - although I start with 3,000), CyA (StewMac has 4 types), and Swirl Remover #4. Swirl Remover #4 also removes any pick scratches, etc. Bought the foam buffer that attaches to a standard drill. Again, older cracks are harder to completely eliminate but you can make them hard to see. I was very reluctant to attempt my first repair. Once Kim talked me through it, no problem. I have had a 1669 CL with the top covered with CyA - wiped off like water using the CyA thinner. I have completely removed finish cracks. Can't do this repair with the lacquer guitars. As far as cracks into or through the wood - check the braces, etc., seal the crack, and do the same procedure. | ||
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Mark in Boise![]() |
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Joined: March 2005 Posts: 12759 Location: Boise, Idaho | Maybe some practice on the Custom Balladeer and then tackle the "new" 87 Collector's when it comes. Or if Norsey gets really good at it, maybe I'll do a loan program. | ||
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worshipleader![]() |
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Joined: June 2004 Posts: 580 Location: NW NJ | VERY informative Tony - thanks for the excellent detail! | ||
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Norseman1![]() |
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Joined: May 2002 Posts: 1026 Location: Back in the Valley of the Sun Mesa Az. | So Tony, I can apply this thinner right to the surface and wipe it off without any worries?! Where can a guy purchase this CYa thinner? ...and thanks for the info. I could really have some fun trying to restore a couple of my guitars with this type of product! | ||
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JeffreyD![]() |
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Joined: September 2004 Posts: 777 Location: East Wenatchee, WA | Mark, When you get real good, maybe I will have you do the 1537. It only has one crack, but it is quite long. That is really the only significant problem with it, but I bet the glue would also work in filling the little "dent" in the finish and the one pinhed sized chip near the binding. I might have to give it a try. Stew-Mac here I come. | ||
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an4340![]() |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389 Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | Tony's procedure looks good, makes me look like a crack repair caveman. I like the dental pick ... you can also use one of your wife's thin needles. And remember old cracks will never go away completely, but they can be stablized! | ||
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Tony Calman![]() |
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Joined: August 2003 Posts: 4619 Location: SoCal | For the CyA - either a store like Michaels or StewMac...get the CyA thinner at the same source as your CyA - just seems to work better. Don't use the little bottles you can get at the grocery store. Another trick for the chips!! Sometimes hard to find but a bottle of matte nail polish (matte = non-gloss) can be used to fill the chip even with the surrounding finish. Buffed, it matches the shine of the Ovation polyester. If the chip went into the actual finish (i.e., sunburst), mix the acrylic paint to match, then several coats of the nail polish to build it up to the surrounding surface. On an Adamas top, sometimes you have black dots - this is finish damage showing the black primer. You can get the paint that would be used to repair kitchen/bathroom sinks (HomeDepot, etc.) and make the minor repairs. Bonds well. Might have to mix a couple of the colors to get the right shade but not a problem. If there is a chip in the "rope" binding, not sure about the best way to build up the damage but you can use the same paint to match the binding's finish. | ||
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Tony Calman![]() |
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Joined: August 2003 Posts: 4619 Location: SoCal | A bad crack will still show unless you have the top stripped and refinished by the factory - expensive. You can do a pretty good job by making it look like wood grain. If you have a fairly clean crack and don't have time to work on it - place a piece of 3m "Magic" tape over the crack...comes right off and will keep oils and dirt from getting into the crack until you have time to work on it. | ||
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JeffreyD![]() |
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Joined: September 2004 Posts: 777 Location: East Wenatchee, WA | Thanks for all the info. The crack on my 1537 didn't even appear until about a year and a half ago, and it spends it's time in the case when not being played, so it should be pretty clean. I guess a trip to Michaels (which is closer than anything) is in order. I have dental picks, but hopefully won't need to use them. Mostly want to be sure I get the glue in the crack, then remove the excess with the thinner. I will toy with the other issues too, but they are very minor. | ||
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Mark in Boise![]() |
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Joined: March 2005 Posts: 12759 Location: Boise, Idaho | I talked to the guy in the office about letting me experiment with the 1537 he just got. He figured that, since he only had a little over $500 into it, he would some day just send it back to the factory for a resurface of the top and have a "new" 1537 for less than $1000. That sounds like something you should consider, Jeff. But if you do a really good job on yours, come on over and do mine. | ||
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an4340![]() |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389 Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | So basically it's $5 for a repair that may add character or be invisible and be perfectly servicable, versus, the cost of resurfacing the top, or a new top. Since I've repaired mine successfully ... | ||
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Mark in Boise![]() |
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Joined: March 2005 Posts: 12759 Location: Boise, Idaho | As soon as Jeff does the perfect repair on his and flies it down here, I'm sure he'll convince us to try the same approach. My friend's has 3 rather large cracks, one of which may go into the wood. Hence the thought that the factory may be best. | ||
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