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Location: cincinnati, ohio | I've never had an "O" with a "manhole cover" access hatch on the back, so I'm proceeding with caution. I decided out of curiosity to take the cover off to see what was under there and discovered, to my chagrin, that whatever the screw is screwed into under there (a post, maybe?) must be loose. I just kept turning and turning and it never seemed to loosen up enough to get the cover off. When I put a mini-flatblade screwdriver under the head of the screw and pushed upward, it started to come up, but then it felt like there was a whole assembly of some kind sliding around in there. So I gingerly tightened everything back up. I don't have a manual (they're supposed to be sending me one), so I really don't know what's under there, and I don't want to have something become totally disassembled while I'm poking around. Is there something under there that will have to be reassembled and readjusted if I take it off (I'd like to tighten it up so the lid comes on and off easily)? I know you need to get in there to adjust the truss rod, so I'd like to get it straightened out. Any help? |
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Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | The "deck hatch" is a screw, cover, foam sponge that acts as a spring and a three prong thingy.
Loosen the scew and move the cover around until of of the three legs is out. Then remove the cover.
You will have open access to the backside and your curiosity will be satisfied.
Do not let all of the Mojo slip out!!! |
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Posts: 616
Location: cincinnati, ohio | The Mojo thing is what REALLY had me worried! So even a technophobe like me should be able to put this back together, right? |
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Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | It will be self explanatory once disassembled.
Next week:
"how to stop a Nuclear Detonation Device"
hint: always cut the Red wire! Never cut the Blue wire! |
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Posts: 14842
Location: NJ | No, cut the blue one . . . |
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Posts: 616
Location: cincinnati, ohio | What do I do with the yellow one? Wait-- what's that ticking noise? OHMIGO--- |
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November 2005
Posts: 4832
Location: Campbell River, British Columbia | :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
How many times do I have to tell you?
If it's green, cut it clean.
If it's red, bang you're dead.
If it's yellow, run like....hell-o!
Now, take the pliers. I'll wait just over there... |
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January 2006
Posts: 208
Location: Illinois | "Topic: DUMB QUESTION: WHAT HAPPENS WHEN I TAKE THE "MANHOLE COVER" OFF THE BACK OF A CS 257? "
Quite simply, the little man falls out. :D
Every dumb question deserves a dumb answer. :p :p |
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January 2006
Posts: 208
Location: Illinois | Hows about this one:
To quote my best friend's departed auto mechanic daddy when we had the hood up, just itchin' to put a wrench to something:
"You shouldn't oughta be messin' with somethin' you don't know nothin' about."
He said the same could be applied to wimmens. |
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Posts: 286
Location: North Idaho | Try playing your guitar with the cover off. You'll know you let something out. |
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Posts: 12759
Location: Boise, Idaho | I think there are four thingies. |
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Posts: 766
Location: New Hampsha | Originally posted by Mark in Boise:
I think there are four thingies. Mark, as you get older, one of your thingies falls off and you're left with three.
Thanks God I'm not there yet.... |
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Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | Behind the manhole cover is a metal cross,inside the body is a post that prevents the cross from turning ,loosen the screw rather well so that the cover can be lifted/slided out,I have done that with my 1537 to reach the trussrod ,I find that to my ears the bass is less but the sound is "fuller" no idea how others hear it but now it projects more randomly,eventually the cover will be put on again ,but for now it sounds rather pleasing , it is fun to do experiments :) Vico |
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June 2004
Posts: 580
Location: NW NJ | Man, I miss Tuppy's input on this thread. I'm sure, he would tell you that while you have the cover off, there are any number of "enhancements" you can make to the inside of the guitar to improve the sonic performance ... you know, things that the folks at the mothership never thought of. |
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Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | Robbie,
I agree. It has been a long drought for Witco innovations and suggestions.
The guy's and gals's on the Martin board are probably feeling the same way! |
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Posts: 14842
Location: NJ | ". . It has been a long drought for Witco innovations and suggestions . ."
Damn "Meaghan's Law" . . . |
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Posts: 4903
Location: Phoenix AZ | A basic problem with the hatch door design is that the foam padding that is used to provide reverse pressure against the spider acts as a "sound sponge". At certain frequencies it causes "dead spots" in the tonal spectrum. I've experimented with a number of modifications. The best solution I could come up with is in beta-testing phase right now on my Book Elite. The foam and spider are removed completely, as is the securing screw. The screw is replaced with a 6" machine screw that goes through the hatch door and stright through a 3/16" hole in the soundboard. It is secured witha rubber washer and a wing-nut. I'm not crazy about the wing-nut because on Pete Townshend windmill chords it slits my wrist. But this is only the beta-version. The final version will probably hve some kind of recessed nut or something. An added bonus is that this helps keep the soundboard nice and flat and secured to the bowl (a good tupperware seal). Expect this to go to market in time for the end of year rush. Dave |
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Location: Waurika OK | Tuppy,
Reverse the 6" machine screw, the wing-nut will then be on the bottom. Not only will you not slit your wrist, but you can scratch where it itches while you play. |
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Location: Boise, Idaho | He's baaaack! |
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Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | Mmmh. I didn't think he'd have a comment about technical innovations, I thought it would be more along the lines of the "insertion" into manholes (for truss rod adjustments).
By the way, I always call the manhole, the back hatch, though techincally it's the "Access Door" |
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Posts: 208
Location: Illinois | Call it a 'Trap Door' and voila! you have a Ovation Banjer! |
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Posts: 580
Location: NW NJ | Originally posted by Tupperware:
A basic problem with the hatch door design is that the foam padding that is used to provide reverse pressure against the spider acts as a "sound sponge". At certain frequencies it causes "dead spots" in the tonal spectrum. I've experimented with a number of modifications. The best solution I could come up with is in beta-testing phase right now on my Book Elite. The foam and spider are removed completely, as is the securing screw. The screw is replaced with a 6" machine screw that goes through the hatch door and stright through a 3/16" hole in the soundboard. It is secured witha rubber washer and a wing-nut. I'm not crazy about the wing-nut because on Pete Townshend windmill chords it slits my wrist. But this is only the beta-version. The final version will probably hve some kind of recessed nut or something. An added bonus is that this helps keep the soundboard nice and flat and secured to the bowl (a good tupperware seal). Expect this to go to market in time for the end of year rush. Dave Oh Tuppy, I'm so glad you're back - and with yet another improvement to the Ovation Sonic Performance (OSP)! You have already sold me on the sound reflecting contact paper to put on the back side of the sound board - dramatic improvement in OSP. Although, with all those little "bracey" things sanded down smooth to make the contact paper one continuous reflective sheet (per your instructions), the top of my 6778LX is starting to get a little "bumpy". And the white enamel interior bowl paint that you sold me also improved the acoustic OSP. The darndest thing happened though right after I sprayed the inside of the bowl - the electronics quit working. I know that you are a fan of pure acoustic sound, but did you know that would happen, or are you just trying to get the rest of us to see the light?
So as soon as I read your latest post, I ran downstairs and got my drill out and drilled that hole in the top of my 6778LX, just like you said. Ya know, xnoel's idea really does work better ... on both counts - you should try it too! |
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Posts: 4903
Location: Phoenix AZ | Originally posted by worshipleader:
So as soon as I read your latest post, I ran downstairs and got my drill out and drilled that hole in the top of my 6778LX, just like you said. As you probably found out for yourself, getting the soundboard hole in proper alignment with the center of the hatch door is no trivial matter. The final version will come with some kind of jig or template to make this easier. What do you think of the sound after the mod? Dave
PS - Sorry about the IRBP (Interior Reflective Bowl Paint) screwing up your electronics. Nobody else has reported that problem. I suspect you used a generic brand paint and not the Krylon as was recommended. Shame on you. |
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Location: Keller, TX | I thought the string tubes were supposed to counter-act the IRBP interference!!! |
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Location: NW NJ | Tuppy:
I actually had to drill three holes before the alignment was right. A jig or a top template would definitely help, although the three extra holes in the top, combined with the dampening effect of the bolt pulling against the top to hold the manhole cover on, really improves the projection and db output from the guitar. It is amazing! You wouldn't think that small of a modification would make THAT much difference in sound. :D
Add the cover mod to the white paint and reflective contact paper and you have an AWESOME sounding guitar.
Oh ... ttenn - the string tubes didn't help with the IRBP :confused: but I haven't had to throw away any more perfectly good sets of strings because of wood particle contamination! |
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DUMB QUESTION: WHAT HAPPENS WHEN I TAKE THE "MANHOLE COVER" OFF THE BACK OF A CS 257?
