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Joined:
August 2009
Posts: 120
Location: Miami | Just wondered if I might pick people's brains on the best way of cleaning the fretboard of the 1537 I picked up a few months ago. Is lemon oil and 0000 steel wool the way to go? If so, is it important to skirt round the maple inlays or should the whole surface be cleaned? And where is the best place to buy steel wool for guitar-cleaning purposes? I have to confess, I've never cleaned a fretboard before; however, this one is noticeably darker colored around the second and third frets and could do with sprucing up a bit. |
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Joined:
March 2005
Posts: 12755
Location: Boise, Idaho | The walnut on the 1537 fretboards is slightly porous, so after 30 years it absorbed a bit and might be permanently darker up at the cowboy chord area. I've just used 0000 steel wool from a hardware or home improvement store. Woodworking is woodworking. There will be a bunch of dark junk from the steel wool all over after you polish it. I'd buff the first few frets and see if you can get the darkness out. Don't work too hard and if you don't get it out, live with it. Then do the rest of the fretboard. I go right over the inlays, get the gunk off and then use Dunlop fretboard cleaner. Let it soak a bit and then polish it good.
You'd be surprised how black a rag will get, even if you didn't use the steel wool. |
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Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6994
Location: Jet City | The walnut fretboards are different than the ebony and rosewood in that they are impregnated with resin. I don't ever use steel wool or oils on them, just a mild cleaner. As Mark mentioned Dunlop makes a fretboard cleaner that I've been using with good results (not the fretboard conditioner, but the cleaner... there's 2 different products). I'd try to refrain from the steel wool. I doubt steel wool and or cleaner will do much against what is probably discoloration due to the acids in the fingers of the previous owner(s).
Ebony and rosewood are not impregnated and thus can take/soak up the oils and conditioners.
Maybe I'm completely wrong here, but that's how I've been taking care of my walnut.
As for the fret markers, never had an issue. They're ebony and maple, both fretboard material. If they start looking rough, you could probably use oils or conditioner on them.
And lastly, the whole "lemon oil" debate. Typically lemon oil is nothing but mineral oil with lemon scent. If you're using an oil instead of a product like 'Guitar Honey" or the Dunlop conditioner, I'd stick with food grade mineral oil. I'e seen (or should I say smelled?) the results from some plant based oils that have turned rancid, so be careful what you use. If you google up how to take care of a cutting board, you'll find the solutions are pretty identical. |
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Joined:
August 2009
Posts: 120
Location: Miami | Those are really informative and helpful replies. Thanks a lot, guys! |
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Joined:
November 2011
Posts: 741
Location: Fort Worth, TX | I was told by a git builder NOT to use steel wool on a neck. He said fine particles will break off and embed in the porous wood and actually rust, turning the area even darker as the wood is permanently stained. He said go to an auto parts store that sells auto painting supplies and get a piece of grey or preferably white Scotchbrite pads. Definitely don't use the green, it's coarse. |
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Joined:
August 2009
Posts: 120
Location: Miami | I'm beginning to think that the best option might be to send the guitar back to Ovation for a complete overhaul. I like it too much to risk messing something up. There's a crack on the top that seems stable, but it wouldn't do any harm to let the experts take a look. |
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Cleaning an Ovation fretboard with inlays
