|
|
Joined:
July 2004
Posts: 338
Location: Omaha | I saw an old 1112 (Custom Balladeer) in a pawn shop today, for sale "as is" for $149. The bridge is pulling off the top and the top is bowing on the lower bout...can't tell from looking at it if braces are loose, etc., and couldn't tell from playing it since the strings were mostly sitting on the fretboard.
I didn't try to talk the guy down yet (to under $100 - maybe $75-85); wanted to ask for some opinions here first. There are a couple good luthiers locally I could take it to - if they're not averse to working on Ovations!
Also, the finish on the top was kind of reddish; I didn't see a finish like that listed for Balladeers on Ovation's website. Anyone seen/have one this color? Or did someone refinish the top (and hasten the bridge's demise...)?
Thanks. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
September 2004
Posts: 11
Location: usa | for a hundred bucks, it may be worth installing the permanent version of the jld bridge dr. i was wondering if it could be installed on an ovation. i have the temporary version on my martin 12 string and it works as advertised. (this won't work for an ovation because it uses the bridge pins for installation.)
it is used by breedlove on all their guitars. it allows for lighter bracing because it takes the stress off the top and transmits it to the tailblock. it can actually flatten a top.
a warning, however, is that i don't think there is a tailblock on an ovation, though it seems one could be expoxied to the bowl if you wanted to go that far.
another option would be to reglue the braces, but you could get into some bucks anyway, so you might want to try and find one that you could score for a couple hundred without the problems.
i would probably buy it just to rescue it from the trash heap, but i am a sucker that way. good luck
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Bridges/JLD_Bridge_Doctor.html |
|
| |
|
Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 873
Location: puerto vallarta, mexico | i have a pre a bracing balladeer and it is also bowed and the bridge was lifting when i got it years ago for a song. first i removed the bridge bolt nuts (nuts are inside the guitar) be prepared for them to possibly break. then removed the bridge all the way with a thin artists spatula that i have sharpened for this purpose. tape precisely around the bridge first with 2 or 3 layers of wide blue masking tape to protect the top and help you get the bridge back to it's original position. go in under the bridge from all sides to avoid splintering the top and chipping the finish. they usually come off easy.
i made my first set of guitar clamps in 1/2 hour out of 1/2 square steel bent in a tight u. (cant be too tight or it won't go into the sound hole; ~ 1 1/2". i have since made several more sets with one or more drilled and tapped holes so they work like a conventional c clamp. with the first clamps i used door shims to wedge the top and bracing or top and bridge together. rub the clamps with a minimum of car wax to prevent sticking to the adhesive. i used epoxy and cabosil (fumed silica) to make a thicker adhesive, i put some on the finger of a surgical rubber gloved hand and forced it into the gap between the brace and top. it only takes a little and you dont want to leave extra sound deadening stuff in there so work clean.
i then clamped the thing together with my clamps and opposed door shims. door shims are cheap cedar wedges sold by the box in builders supply stores. no shop should be without them. they have 101 uses.
give the epoxy plenty of time to kick. i used epoxy to restore the area under the bridge and to reglue the bridge. i now use polyurethane adhesive (gorrila glue). this is not by any means established luthier technique, and i don't reccommend it for a fine guitar. i got the silver label balladeer super cheap and it has given me years of trouble free service since the repair and was my gig guitar until i ---well---sort of became possessed. now i have around 50 more stringed instruments. i play them all except for a couple of virgin unplayed ukIIs. i even have a miesel spitfire electric violin. it has a humbucker and i can make some pretty scarey sounds with it. frets sure make things easier i found out. the rooster started crowing next door when i first got it.
do a dry run with the clamps first, and by all means read about the right way to do it. there's lots online. my method came from a metalsmithing and boatbuilding background so i tend to get carryed away with strength.
SO WHAT THE HELL----BARGAIN THE GUY DOWN TO 1 SMALL AND BUY IT. YOU'LL HAVE FUN AND LEARN ALLOT ABOUT YOUT GUITAR.
bed time--- |
|
| |
|
Joined:
July 2004
Posts: 338
Location: Omaha | Russ,
Now you're starting to talk about WORK!! ;)
I've done a lot of work on electrics (having built half a dozen Warmoths); I don't trust myself that much with acoustics, but you're right. I could chalk this one up as a learning experience (I'm afraid I might get hooked, though...).
I'll have to give it some more thought...and see how much he'll come down...
thanks for all the advice...any more? |
|
| |
|
Joined:
November 2002
Posts: 3666
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | I have devised a method of "bowl bending" to alter the neck angle on an "O". WARNING: This is not for the faint of heart, or to be mistaken with "professional" luthiery. Sure saved an old warrior I resurrected awhile ago.
As for flattening bellies, an issue relevant to my senior brethren, I sure; I made a new bridge, and routed the front portion (with the saddle slot) to lower the string height. It still had plenty of "meat" to hold the ball-ends, and compensated for the rise in the lower bout distortion.
Personally, I think $75.00 is a good figure. There's a lot of work there.
WRV, you're a kindred spirit; I don't like the notion of trashing old Ovations, either. |
|
| |
Can this guitar be fixed?
