|
|
Joined: May 2010 Posts: 9
| YES.. the shims are all taken out..... Its a 1981 Adamas 2. It seems you can't file down the saddle because its an acoustic/electric and it has metal attached TO THE SADDLE! So should I mess with the truss rod? I do believe it has a bow in it because I followed "Ovations" tips on how to check for warp/bow defects.... and it looks like it might just have a small bow in it. But I dont think the truss rod will do much improvement on the action?! If anyone has experienced this with an older model and had action problems..I could really use some good advice! PLEASE HELP! I live far away from any guitar techs so Im really hangin out to dry!! Thanks again! |
|
|
|
Joined: June 2007 Posts: 3084
Location: Brisbane Australia | Neck should be adjusted first.
How much clearance on the bass E at the 7th if you fret it at 1 and 14?
Should be the thickness of theTreble E string ie .012" or even a whisker less.
AJ |
|
|
|
Joined: November 2008 Posts: 1119
Location: Michigan | I take it your action is still to high?
AJ has it correct. Check the neck relief first. Capo the first fret and then hold down the string at the fret where the neck meets the body. You should have .006 to .012 clearence between the bottome of the high e string and the top of the middle fret. If you have less you have to back off on the truss rod. Start with a quarter turn and let it sit over night and check it again. Once you have that relief correct and your action is too high with the shims out you probably have to look at a neck reset. |
|
|
|
Joined: September 2005 Posts: 3618
Location: GATLINBURG TENNESSEE :) | You may want to put at least one of the shims back in before you adjust the truss rod. The truss rod adjustment is very easy to do, but as mentioned above, you need to adjust in small increments or you'll over-adjust and it may be difficult to find your way back to neutrality. |
|
|