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Elite 1768 rehab part 2

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seesquare
Posted 2026-04-12 4:35 PM (#561383 - in reply to #561382)
Subject: Re: Elite 1768 rehab part 2


Joined:
November 2002
Posts: 3666

Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire
Dazzling! Nice work, Dave. Keep the photos coming.
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DanSavage
Posted 2026-04-20 6:53 PM (#561386 - in reply to #561382)
Subject: RE: Elite 1768 rehab part 2



Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 2347

Location: Pueblo West, CO

davegardner0 - 2026-04-12 12:24 PM

I haven't posted in a while, but I have some good progress to report on this project...

Right now I think the straightedge on the neck is just a little too low at the bridge?

Yes, the neck angle is a little too shallow. It should be at the top of the bridge, or slightly higher. (~1/16" - 3/32")

Neck I turned my attention to the rosette. I don't have the epaulets, and I wanted to do something a bit creative. I spent a LONG time thinking about and sketching out designs. I settled on a concept that would sort of "copy" a traditional Martin black and white rosette, but in a creative way.

...


I glued the strips in by simply dripping acetone onto the plastic while in the channels. You can see how much the white plastic swelled as it absorbed the acetone.

Ovation glues the purfling/binding the same way. Unlike the purfling we get that is a combination of fiber and plastic, Ovation uses stuff that's all plastic. This allows them to clamp everything into place, then run acetone to glue the layers.

2 days later, all of the acetone had offgassed and the plastic was hard again. I chiseled off the bulk of the plastic, then scraped it smooth with a scraper.

The treble side soundhole rosettes, which I did first, are a little sloppy in a few spots. But I'm still happy with them. The bass side is nearly flawless!

Lastly I drilled the soundholes with some forstner bits on my drill press. The rosettes are 1/4" away from the edge of each soundhole, and it was the plan all along to have the soundholes intersect some of the rosettes.


Done! What do you think of my design?

I think it looks really cool.

It reminds me of the original design for the prototype nylon-string Adamas that features miniature oak leaf rosettes surrounding the sound holes.


So that's where I'm at! Next step is to glue on the braces. I hope you liked this step-by-step write up so far!

I do like it. Keep up the good work!

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Jonmark Stone
Posted 2026-05-10 11:03 AM (#561402 - in reply to #561031)
Subject: Re: Elite 1768 rehab part 2


Joined:
May 2008
Posts: 1569

Location: Indiana
Beautiful work.
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davegardner0
Posted 2026-06-27 2:56 PM (#561456 - in reply to #561031)
Subject: RE: Elite 1768 rehab part 2


Joined:
October 2016
Posts: 25

Location: NJ, USA
I've been making slow but steady progress.

I didn't end up buying a go-bar deck. I just used a bunch of clamps, with either a board or my workbench as a flat backing surface. It was slow-going, but it worked.




I don't know that this was entirely necessary, but I sanded the plastic kerfing on the body with 120 grit sandpaper to roughen the surface and remove any residual epoxy that might not be bonded super well.


Next, I spent some time on the neck. The back of the fretboard extension had a bunch of glue residue, so I removed that with some scrapers.


I pulled out the old frets.


The fretboard is very rough texture. But, I think I'll leave it alone for now, and only level the board and refret once the neck is on the guitar. That way I can make sure i get the fretboard extension flat.


Speaking of the fretboard extension, it's currently bowed down a bit. I'm thinking this would be pushed back into a flat position when the top and neck are both installed onto the body. Does that seem right? Or should I make the backside flat with the scrapers?
It's a slight curve, hopefully it's visible in this photo.



One more thing about the neck.... I'm planning on leaving the top as a natural finish as I like that look. However, the neck has a sunburst finish both on the back and the headplate area. I'm not sure it's gonna look great with a natural finish body. So I'm considering refinishing the neck. The finish on the neck is in good shape so this isn't necessary, but I'm tempted. Has anyone tried removing the finish from a neck? And if so, what's the best method? I would think both a chemical paint stripper and a heat gun would run the risk of softening the epoxy that the neck is likely built with. What do you think?




I think next I'm going to get ready to glue to the top to the bowl. I've already started working on a neck set jig like Dan suggested.

A few more questions:
1. I'll need to have the neck mounted to the body to glue the top. How do I get epoxy onto the bowl's kerfing under the fretboard extension?

2. Similarly, how do I avoid gluing the neck to the bowl, assuming there will be some epoxy squeeze-out from the kerfing near the neck joint area.

3. What's the best way to clamp the top to the bowl during gluing? Perhaps some sort of frame or board that goes over the body, with a weight on top of it?

4. I also want to move the strap button near the neck joint to the underside, inside the cutaway as I think that'll make the guitar hang better when played standing up. (I have another non-cutaway ovation with the strap button under the neck and it's great). I see that the existing strap buttons are attached to the body with a drywall anchor-looking thing. Does anyone have a source for them? I'm thinking of leaving the existing strap button in place and just adding a 3rd, so that I don't need to plug the hole.
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