|
|
Joined:
February 2008
Posts: 14
Location: Rhode Island | My strings are removed and there are some areas on the fingerboard where the coloring is a little faded. What do you guys use to rub the fingerboard? |
|
| |
|
Joined:
January 2004
Posts: 1225
Location: Lake Hiawatha, New Jersey | Dunlop makes a good fretboard cleaner / conditioner. After using that, I like to use a drop of lemon oil. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | When my fretboard gets to that point, I use 0000 steel wool with a few drops of lemon oil. This cleans both the wood and frets. I thoroughly wipe away all traces of residue and then apply lemon oil. I let it sit for a couple of hours. I do this twice.Then I wipe off the excess and buff with a micro-cloth. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
December 2003
Posts: 1071
Location: Carle Place, NY | I've been using heavy mineral oil as suggested by some of the members here in the past. It's cheap and available at most pharmacies. Make sure you get the heavy stuff that's labeled for internal use. I use 0000 steel wool with a few drops of the oil to remove gunk and polish up the frets and then a cotton rag to wipe up any residue. I find that it makes the fretboard look like new and works well with any kind of fretboard wood. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
November 2006
Posts: 3969
| This isn't meant as a slap (newbies may not know about this functionality) - do a search on this board. This has been discussed often, as recently as the middle of last month.
The consensus (favorite to least): Dunlop65, Fret Doctor, mineral oil, tung oil, lemon oil. The caveat with lemon oil is that most available are not pure and contain solvents that could remove some of the natural oils of your fret wood. Also, the acidity in lemon oil is thought to be harmful to the wood by some. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
February 2008
Posts: 14
Location: Rhode Island | My take would be to scrub the fingerboard using an Ocello no-scratch nylon scrub pad dipped in mineral oil. I would not use steel wool since the residue could cause rust around the frets. Not only that but I just would not want any steel wool residue anywhere on my instruments. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 3619
Location: GATLINBURG TENNESSEE :) | All good suggestions and comments. I first scrub the fretboard down with pledge orange oil cleaner, then follow up with a combination of pure lemon oil, Jojoba oil, and olive oil. I call it the "spa treatment" |
|
| |
|
Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6996
Location: Jet City | I use Guitar Honey by Gerlitz.
I believe it's mineral oil based. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
March 2005
Posts: 12759
Location: Boise, Idaho | Leonard, let us know how it comes out. I don't think you have to worry about the rust from the steel wool, though. I suspect it's been used on fretboards since before I was born and that's quite awhile ago. It often takes something pretty serious to get the grime from your fingers off the fretboard. I don't add oil until after I've blown off the steel wool particles, then add the oil and polish it really good. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
November 2004
Posts: 367
Location: Eaton, Indiana | I use magic erasers in my repair business. They clean without scratching. A little vegtable oil on a soft rag does wonders.
Scott |
|
| |
|
Joined:
February 2008
Posts: 247
Location: Delaware | I've used the "Petros" fingerboard oil. Did a great job. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | BTW, olive and vegetable oils can go rancid. :eek: |
|
| |
|
Joined:
February 2005
Posts: 11840
Location: closely held secret | I spit on it and wipe it off with my sleeve.
Doesn't do much for cleaning it, but I'm seldom bothered by people wanting to borrow my guitars. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
October 2002
Posts: 153
Location: Huntington Beach, CA | I saw a video put out by Copley where the guy used 000 steel wool to remove dirt and polish the frets and then he used lemon oil. I bought some stuff called Dr. Longfellows magic fretboard dressing of some nonsense like that. The ingredients? Lemon oil.
For discoloration, you might want to use a tinted stain/wax (Minwax) first, let it dry and then use lemon oil. Try the stain on some other wood first to match the color. I'm sure they have something close to ebony or rosewood depending on what your fretboard is made of. Good luck. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
May 2003
Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | Clean the fretwire with wd 40.
Clean the frets and the fretwire with naptha.
Remoisturize with mineral oil.
Don't stain. Let it be natural.
Forget the expensive stuff. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
February 2005
Posts: 11840
Location: closely held secret | Now, boys. Don't fight. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | Originally posted by The Wabbit Formerly Known As Waskel:
Now, boys. Don't fight. Who's fighting? :confused:
Just personal preferences ... ;) |
|
| |
|
Joined:
May 2003
Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | The fight detector senses no tension. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
October 2002
Posts: 153
Location: Huntington Beach, CA | Personally, I like the aged look so I would do the most natural thing one can do. I don't use steel wool, stain or WD40 (sounds like a good idea though). I just use Dunlop 65 on everything but the fretboard and I use conventional lemon oil on the fretboard to both clean and treat the wood. Not sure what to put on the bridge.
I learn a lot from OFC members and take no offense if someone offers a different opinion or criticizes mine. Heck, I'm a finance guy. What do I know about lutherie. Now I have to research naptha. Never heard of it but it might be something worth trying when I next re-string.
All that to say, no fight from me and thanks to all for the input on this and many many other issues! |
|
| |
|
Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | Originally posted by Eman:
Not sure what to put on the bridge. I apply the same lemon oil that I use on the fretboard.(shrug) |
|
| |
|
Joined:
February 2008
Posts: 1
Location: Los Angeles, CA | Originally posted by LeonardDB:
I would not use steel wool since the residue could cause rust around the frets. Not only that but I just would not want any steel wool residue anywhere on my instruments. I agree. From many years spent maintaining boats, I can very much recommend 3M synthetic steel wool pads. Any particles from the pads that get into the pores of the material you use them on will not rust. Plus the pads last forever; just rinse them and re-use. I know they have #000 grade at least.
Granted, the conditions that boats must endure are slightly more harsh than what a guitar must (depending on the player I suppose). I still like the peace of mind of not using "real" steel wool. |
|
| |
Fingerboard oil
