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Joined:
December 2001
Posts: 7247
Location: The Great Pacific Northwest | Hello All,
Does anyone have any ideas for fixing the cracks that seem to appear on the older (tan) Ovation cases? I'm not talking big gouges or anything but those little hairline cracks that are probably from age and temperature change. I have seen cases where parts of the plastic outer shell are breaking into bits, and I assume they all started as one of these hairlines.
A guitar I just shipped developed one, and other than that, it's in pristine condition. We're looking for something to seal the crack. Maybe an epoxy or resin, but also don't want something that will just cause more problems later.
Thanks |
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December 2006
Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | The case in case here:
Thanx Miles! |
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December 2006
Posts: 6996
Location: Jet City | Yes, 2ifbyC follow these instructions and do not deviate.
1. Place UKII in cracked case, put cracked case inside of box with packing material
2. Ship to:
500 108th Ave NE
Suite 800
Bellevue, WA 98004
You won't have to worry about the crack ever again, I promise you. |
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Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | Originally posted by Damon67:
inside of box with packing material ...picky, picky, picky! 
Actually, I asked Miles if it was cracked prior to shipment. He was concerned and very gracious in posting here prior to going through the insurance BS. I would much rather have the OFC hive mind come up with a solution rather than putting him through the crap of a claim. Our main concern is preventing further damage.
BTW, the UK II (3 pup) is totally SWEET! It's all that Miles said it was plus.  If he ever has another git I'm interested in, consider it SOLD without any reservations! |
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December 2004
Posts: 1673
Location: SoCal | Polyurethane Hot Melt Adhesive looks promising. I was thinking about trying the MP75 (multi-purpose formula) to close up a crack in an old black case.
Fred showed me a Hot Melt Silicon which would probably be better.
As these cases age, the outer skin gets brittle.
Minor impacts and/or flexing result in cracks.
There would have to be shipping-box damage to go along with that case crack? I would still file a shipping damage claim. |
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June 2006
Posts: 7307
Location: South of most, North of few | You might try one of your local "leather medic" or other automotive interior repair people. They are all mobile and you should be able to find one (maybe under a different name) in the yellow pages. I believe they do interior plastic trim on cars, so this should be right up their alley. |
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Posts: 1634
Location: Warren,Pa. | Waddyah mean, old cases? Every 9158 I've had has done that. And my cases don't get a lot of wear and tear.
John <>{ |
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February 2004
Posts: 2487
| Personally I do not think these can ever be totally fixed. They are like the problems the dashboards in cars of the 70's had. Enough sun and heat and they would crack open every time with no good fix. The case material is harder but I will bet it has the same inherent problems with longevity those other early plastics did.
To stabilize that crack I'd suggest you find a good tape that will seal the crack on the front to keep anything from seeping to the outside during repair. Flip it over and remove the case interior material to get at it from the back. I would then suggest a piece of fiberglass cloth and some good epoxy resin. Make a barrier so the resin does not travel to far from the crack approx. 3" wide submerse the woven fabric into the resin and let it set up. reinsert case material and remove tape from outside. For color match repairs experiment with the many mixable resins and color choices available.
I use a complany called Smooth On quite often for the custom scale model parts I build at work......good strong stuff! or use straight up uncolored epoxy and experiment with some permenent markers to find a color match as close as you can get on the front after this is done.... Or buy a bunch of road case band stickers and go nuts!
Randy |
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Posts: 5575
Location: big island | or replace them all with carbon fiber cases. call al. :cool: |
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December 2001
Posts: 7247
Location: The Great Pacific Northwest | One MISTAKE that I know a lot of people have done, including myself before I learned, that Armor ALL should NEVER be used on things like this or dashboards, unless you intended to keep treating it every few months from that point forward. |
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December 2006
Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | First of all, thanx to Miles for stepping up and posting (honestly, I asked if he would due to his stellar rep here).
Now in order of postings:
Damon67 , nice try! 
noah , great link. I just don't think it would be the best in this 'case'. I will have to check out that system for my other projects though. 
Trader Jim , that's the route I'll try first! If I 'go there' and it works out, I'll send ya a coconut shell pick when I perfect my 'nut' technique.
bauerhillboy ,  I have seven simular cases and this was the first one with this condition.
Northcountry , too intrusive! But thanx... 
lanaki , not after checking out the other thread! 
Mr. Ovation (Miles), most folk do not realize the problems that Armor ALL and WD40 can and has caused! Short cuts usually mean major issues in the long run (been there, done that)! 
Thanx to all for your inputs!  |
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Joined:
September 2005
Posts: 98
Location: SF Bay area, California | Originally posted by Mr. Ovation:
.... ideas for fixing the cracks that seem to appear on the older (tan) Ovation cases? I'm not talking big gouges or anything but those little hairline cracks that are probably from age and temperature change.... We're looking for something to seal the crack....
First things first. 'Stop Drill' the ends of the crack. The end of the crack is a 'stress riser'. Drill a small hole that provides a smooth surface beyond the original end of the crack.
Now use an adhesive over the crack area. Epoxies with glass cloth can bond, but most likely a solvent style adhesive for ABS will work on these cases. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
M^2 |
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December 2006
Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | I already did the ol' windshield/plexiglas relief drill trick. Didn't take much (1/16") to help.
I won't use any type of epoxies due to the activator. I just can't take the chance with the internal foam! |
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Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | This is what I did and it worked great. Of course, it looks like a patch, but it's not that bad and adds character. I believe it was Paul Temp who told me about the fiberglassing.
http://www.ovationfanclub.com/cgi-bin/ubb/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=ge...
You can also tuck in weather stripping near the valence to keep out water. |
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May 2003
Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | And the amour all didn't cause any problems after 3 years. Though I only used it once. |
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February 2002
Posts: 5750
Location: Scotland | I've used Automotive fibreglass bodge kits. They produce a very solid repair which can be made to look OK if you spend a little time. There's a Tamiya tan acrylic spray paint available from hobby shops which is a reasonable match for the case colour. |
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May 2003
Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | You can see the patching on the left side. It actually looks better in person. The sticker is from StandingO. I miss that guy.
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Posts: 11039
Location: Earth·SolarSystem·LocalInterstellarCloud·Local Bub | Duct Tape.
Light Brown. |
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October 2005
Posts: 5332
Location: Bluffton, SC | "Duct Tape.
Light Brown."
Wrap several times around ukulele player. Smile and repeat. |
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Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | Originally posted by an4340:
And the amour all didn't cause any problems after 3 years. Though I only used it once. You can thank Mr. Naphtha! ;) |
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Ovation Case Repair
