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OT Telecaster sheilding question
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Forums Archive -> The Vault: 2006 | Message format |
an4340 |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389 Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | This weekend, at long last, I should be finished assembling my parts-tele-caster. And next week I'll be bringing it to my guiter woman to do the soldering. I was wondering if there was any utility to sheilding the control and bridge pickup cavities. My old one didn't have any sheilding and it was fine. I reckon that the mass of the bridge and control panel, combined with grounding did a pretty good job. Any thoughts? | ||
Waskel |
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Joined: February 2005 Posts: 11840 Location: closely held secret | Originally posted by an4340: You have a guitar woman?Any thoughts? | ||
CrimsonLake |
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Joined: August 2006 Posts: 3145 Location: Marlton, NJ | Doesn't everybody? | ||
Melmoth |
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Joined: February 2006 Posts: 76 Location: Fairfax, VA | Wow...a guitar woman...finally something that combines my interests in one neat package. | ||
Cantom |
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Joined: September 2006 Posts: 54 Location: Kingston Ontario | My personal experience is, you should not have to shield the pickup cavaties. Somthing you might want to do is shield the pair of leads running between the neck pickup and the control cavity. For some reason, and this is well documented, static can build up on the pickguard. What then happens is when you tap the pick guard, you can hear a crackling noise coming out of your amp that will drive you nuts. If this should occur on your instrument, you can either replace the leads with a piece of shielded cable, or purchase a length of shielding material. It is a braided sleeve. You unsolder the leads at the switch and insert them into the sleeve. Make sure it doesn't touch the pickup connections. Ground it to the back of a potentiometer in the control cavity. You only need to ground it at one end. I did it to my tele about six months ago and it has worked great ever since. There is an article on the web I believe from the Fender custom shop. I tried their solutions without any satisfactory results. Good luck. Tom | ||
Mark in Boise |
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Joined: March 2005 Posts: 12759 Location: Boise, Idaho | Big on the bottom with skinny necks and small heads just isn't my thing. | ||
an4340 |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389 Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | Mmmh, interesting ... do both wires need the sheilding or just the wire soldered to the switch? Or alternatively, wouldn't a better ground be to put some foil on the back of the guard and then run a wire from the foil on the back of the pickguard down to the ground on the volume pot? Or instead of soldering, strip off the wire, and put it under the foil (could it be aluminum?) and then squish it into place, and let the adhesive hold it, and then run the wire to the control plate and just screw it on, say at the switch, or some other convenient place? Or, this guy says you just put a piece of foil on the back of the pickguard and it wicks away the popping and there\'s no need of a gound | ||
Cantom |
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Joined: September 2006 Posts: 54 Location: Kingston Ontario | I put the sleeving over both wires to be on the safe side. I tried using foil without any success. I read where someone had tried using anti static spray on the back of the pick guard. I tried but it only seemed to last a short time. It's amazing when you examine any Fender guitar, none of the leads are shielded and yet seem to be ok. | ||
alpep |
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Joined: December 2001 Posts: 10583 Location: NJ | all pots switches pickups and jacks should be shielded to the bridge | ||
an4340 |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389 Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | I guess in a way they all will be ... the bridge screws will touch the bridge, and a grounding wire from the bridge pick up will run to the v-pot. According to the directions, this will also have the effect of grounding the strings. I know the neck pick up will be grounded to the v-pot, and there will be a ground to the jack. If I have any issues with hum then I'll start with sheilding the pickguard, then the bridge, then the control cavity then the neck. But I finally want to get this mother strung up and playing. | ||
an4340 |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389 Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | Oh yeah, were did you get the braided jacket to put over the wires? | ||
Cantom |
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Joined: September 2006 Posts: 54 Location: Kingston Ontario | The braided jacket is available from Computers Electronics ETC (CEE) in Houston TX. There phone number is 281-286-551- and there web address is www.epo.ecp.com. purchase about 25 feet of the stuff as it was really inexpensive. It comes in various sizes. The batch I got is around 1/4 inch. CEE may have sites in other states. Tom | ||
Cantom |
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Joined: September 2006 Posts: 54 Location: Kingston Ontario | The CEE phone number is 281-286-5510. My last posting left off the last diget. Sorry about that. Tom | ||
Beal |
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Joined: January 2002 Posts: 14127 Location: 6 String Ranch | On all the Part-A-Casters I've built I never used any sheilding and had no problem. Maybe try it that way first. If there's a hum or other problem then try some of the above suggestions. | ||
FlySig |
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Joined: October 2005 Posts: 4051 Location: Utah | Way back in the day, I remember a friend who had taken a soldering iron to his amp. Whenever I plugged into it, there was a lot of noise and hum. No big deal, since I usually plugged into my own amp. The problem occured when I was plugged into my own amp, touching my strings, and then plugged him into his own amp. ZZZAAAPP! Seems he had gotten the ground messed up in his amp, reversing the hot with the ground out to the wall socket. Friggen bass players. | ||
an4340 |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389 Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | Crap. I put on the tuners and the knob fell off. I have to contact Planet Waves to get a replacement. I wanted to get this thing done this week. Oh well ... I think, I'll take your advice, skip the sheilding and then add it if needed. Thanks guys. | ||
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