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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | I have a new project- an 1121-4, foil label (New Hartford, Conn.), with a cracked peghead, a long split in the lower right bout, hand-laid fiberglass bowl, two holes, with brass position pins, in upper left bout (by the neck), no hole under the saddle for the pickup (curious, eh?)mushroom-head Grover machines, & ebony fretboard. Now, the REALLY good news- some schmuck installed a Guild individual-pole-screw, electronic pickup right between the bridge and plastic rosette ring, requiring the severing of the main brace, in what looks like a VT-6 brace pattern (only 5 radiating braces from the top brace) for the mutilation. This has also resulted in the comparative collapse of the top, so the saddle is essentially level with the top of the bridge, to salvage the action of the guitar.
Yeah, you're right- I got my hands full.
Actually, the archival question is this: There is "8402" stamped into the end of the neck-block inside the bowl- Is that the serial #? I don't see any evidence of a serial # label in the "usual" position, above the foil label.
I had fleeting thoughts of having The MotherShip work on this beast, but figured the overall quality of the instrument, and condition of the individual components would not warrant the investment. If the top were to be replaced, I'm sure Kim, John, et. al., would insist on replacing the bowl, too. The neck is sound (despite the peghead fracture), but probably needs refretting, and releveling. I probably will end up using this instrument for my next phase of resurrection education.
Anyrate, any historical info would be appreciated. As to my wisdom in taking on this fiasco, well.......as my sainted mother always says, "If you haven't got anything good to say.....". And yes, I realize many of my OFC brethren do not suffer fools easily. |
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Location: SoCal | This is the Artist model. A plain version of the Glen Campbell Artist, introduced in 1970. A good little guitar. Not much bass (not many O's had good bass in the 70's). Not looking at the serial number code, I'd say that it was built in 1972-73. And yes, the number stamped on the block is the serial number.
I had one of these. It was my first Ovation. Sorry I ever sold it. |
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Posts: 13997
Location: Upper Left USA | Your work is cut out for you. Saw that on the Bay and had no idea how much damage took place to put in the pick up.
After you strip the top and re brace it you may want to use some inlay to cover the holes.
I hope to get over to the warm side of Washington and see some of your handiwork before too long.
Press on! |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | "Warm" is a euphemism. At 99 degrees Fahrenheit, it may be a lot closer to something of biblical proportion.
Thanks for the encouragement, Mike. And, hey thanks, Paul, I knew you'd come through for me (again).
If the 1712, with ballistic embellishments, could have a "Dillinger" moniker, I will have to divine some appropriate nickname for this critter. I'll have to be mindful of it's character, history, and behavior; that is my business, after all. Probably something out of the Diagnostic & Statistical Manual of the American Psychiatric Association, I suspect. |
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Location: 6 String Ranch | Have fun with it! |
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Location: RI. That small State out East | I'll light a candel in a church...
Any church.
Woz |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | OK, next question: There are the two holes by the neck/bowl joint. About 5/16 & 3/8, I would guess. So, Volume & Tone? Is this a fabled "two-knobber"?
As I am pressing "the edge of the envelope", would anyone out there have the schematics for the electronics? I haven't figured out why there isn't a hole in the saddle slot yet- the bridge looks original.
As for the serial number, is it possible this critter was made in 1968? The reference table is somewhat imprecise for 4-digit numbers. Supposedly, 5-digit numbers start in 1970, or so. |
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Location: Upper Left USA | Is there an inlaid first-run rossette lying under the plastic one?
At least he didn't install a fender pick guard! |
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Posts: 6202
Location: Phoenix AZ | C^2, The 2 knobbers didn't come out until '76 and the knobs are on the waist, not near the neck. is it possible one hole is for a strap button? The Artist bowl models came out around '71 I think. I doubt if 8402 is the serial number. Ovation went to letter prefixes in about '69. Also a 4 digit serial number would have the steeper peghead angle. |
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Location: SoCal | I'm guessing that it's a 73 model. I've got a 72 Balladeer with a serial number in the 6000's. The shallow bowl was introduced in the 1970 catalog.
As for trying to figure out what was done to the guitar and why it is as it is, a 1621 would have one hole on the bass side of the body near the neck for the volume (and only volume) knob. It would have another smaller hole on the treble side of the bowl for the strap button.
I'm guessing from what you've said, Chris, that the saddle in the guitar is a slim, non electric saddle. That would tell me that for whatever reason, the bridge was replaced with a non acoustic/electric bridge. The only a/e saddles used at that time are the original tru balance saddles. The slots for those are much wider than the standard saddle slot, and aren't cut at an angle.
So I would guess that the bridge was replaced, and for whatever reason, an extra hole was drilled in the body by the volume knob.
Also, is there a hole for the jack? Sometimes, people have done the damnedest things to guitars. |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Curiously, there is a brass position pin above EACH hole, leading me to suspect this was a factory installation, of some sort. There is no output jack hole in the bottom of the bowl, but pursuant to the Guild pickup bastardization, there is a hole in the end, where the strap button is normally located. There is no hole on the treble side of the neck for a strap button.
Paul, the bridge issue may be correct. I think there is a vestige of evidence of a filled hole in the vicinity of the bridge, viewed from the inside.
Hell, the thing is likely over 30 years old. I've got a few replacement parts myself!
As for serial number, Dave, your speculation is much more credible than mine would be. I just wonder what that "8402" signifies. As for peghead angle, I'm clueless. I managed to scrape the crappy adhesive out of the fissure, and injected two-part epoxy, and clamped it up real good. It's probably real close to the original angle now. I will dust off my trigonometry text and estimate the dangle of the angle. If it's a bit over spec, that's ok. Usually improves the resonance and tone, anyway, with a steeper angle.
I have done some minor cosmetic surgery on the peghead. The critter lost the treble-side ear somewhere, and I have grafted on some new material. Piercing & tatooes are not being considered. Dillinger needed a similar procedure, also, as you might see in the gallery image.
Anyrate, I'll keep you posted on the progress. The reconstruction of the internal bracing will be real interesting. I'm already designing special scrapers, chisels, and clamping jigs. I have to somehow restore the top to the proper plane, in relation to the fretboard. |
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Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Did my first "bowl bend" procedure. That was interesting, to be sure. Actually, it's pretty easy to control the amount of neck set, if you set your clamps up right. I have essentially retuned the action to about factory specs (I think). The top braces have been replaced to VT-8 pattern. Now, I have to devise an aesthetically pleasing patch for where the #%&@+*$ electric pickup was. Got some ideas from the Nichols truss rod covers website already. I removed the plastic rosette (no, there wasn't an inlaid one beneath it- damn!), so now I will have to construct a replacement rosette for it. Since it needs to be about an inch wide, I should be able to go hog-wild with different designs! I mean, do the math- that's 16 rows in 1/16" increments to contend with. I need to fill several finish cracks, so if anybody has suggestions, send 'em over.
That's about it. Roger that; out for now. |
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Location: SoCal | Chris:
You got any pics of this bastard? |
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Posts: 3666
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Yeah, and then my desktop promptly went "TU" on me after only 72 hours back from the shop. It's not my tech; it's the hardware, I'm sure. As soon as I get it back, I will post some images. I couldn't really take internal images with the webcam, but the extra orifice is well depicted.
I'll stop there; I might jeopardize my premeditation defense if I keep thinking about who might have butchered this piece!! |
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Location: Upper Left USA | Seesquare,
Did you follow up with the acoustic trem bar inventor that was selling the new tops on ebay?
Could you copy the pattern and make a Cedar top?
I would rather set up a new multi-hole top than patch that gaping chasm left by the Butcher!
But so far all I've tackled is TRCs!
Push that envelope! |
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Posts: 3666
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | So, Mike, you're suggesting I close up the existing orifice & soundhole, then drill new holes? That means I cut another hole in the back, right?!
Thanks, but no thanks, there Buddy. I've got enough engineering fiascoes, as it is!! Hey, but let let me know when that custom TRC is done, OK? |
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New Toy Story- Archivist Needed
