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Viper bridge Shaller version question

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Dusan
Posted 2014-06-22 6:21 PM (#487937)
Subject: Viper bridge Shaller version question


Joined:
May 2013
Posts: 9

Hi,

About a year ago I bought a Viper from the period when Ovation started switching from black to chrome bridges. It has a chrome bridge, but the body has a hole for the third screw and a small chrome cover for it.

I wanted to set the guitar up with Slinky Top - Heavy Bottom strings, and for the first time since I own this guitar I took all the strings off at the same time and discovered that the bridge sits on the studs very loosely - so when you put the strings on and tune them the angle between the body and the bridge changes, which in turn shortens the length between the bridge and the nut.

The non-threaded bit on the studs is almost a full millimetre longer then the thickness of the bridge.

Is this the case with all the Vipers or I have mismatched studs and the bridge?

Has anybody else come across this?

Thanks,

Dusan
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Mr. Ovation
Posted 2014-06-22 8:27 PM (#487943 - in reply to #487937)
Subject: Re: Viper bridge Shaller version question


Joined:
December 2001
Posts: 7223

Location: The Great Pacific Northwest		We'll need to see pictures, but there is some play on the bridge against the studs, but not much. Be interested to see if they are stock, a pic would be the easiest way to tell.
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moody, p.i.
Posted 2014-06-22 11:59 PM (#487949 - in reply to #487937)
Subject: Re: Viper bridge Shaller version question


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15664

Location: SoCal		It might be an earlier guitar on which the early bridge was swapped out for a later one....
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Dusan
Posted 2014-06-23 5:13 PM (#487984 - in reply to #487937)
Subject: Re: Viper bridge Shaller version question


Joined:
May 2013
Posts: 9

Miles, Moody,

Thank you for such prompt reply.

I measured the stud and the bridge, and the difference is over 0.6 mm, which is way too much for it to belong to the same set.

I took some photos:
In the first two photos you can see the difference in angle between the up position (where it gets when you put the strings on) and the position where the bridge is parallel to the body.

It looks like I will have to find the correct studs or make a 0.5 mm shin to stabilise the bridge.

Any ideas where I could buy the studs?

Would the current Schaller ones fit?

Questions, questions...

Best,

Dusan

Edited by Dusan 2014-06-23 5:29 PM




(01 gap up.jpg)



(02 gap down.jpg)



(03 bridge and stud.jpg)



(04 bridge and stud.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 gap up.jpg (77KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments 02 gap down.jpg (80KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments 03 bridge and stud.jpg (84KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments 04 bridge and stud.jpg (83KB - 0 downloads)
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Damon67
Posted 2014-06-23 6:15 PM (#487987 - in reply to #487937)
Subject: Re: Viper bridge Shaller version question



Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6994

Location: Jet City		Dusan, that is how those are. All of mine are the same.
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Mr. Ovation
Posted 2014-06-23 8:16 PM (#487988 - in reply to #487937)
Subject: Re: Viper bridge Shaller version question


Joined:
December 2001
Posts: 7223

Location: The Great Pacific Northwest		+1 looks like stock setup to me
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Dusan
Posted 2014-06-24 4:43 AM (#487998 - in reply to #487937)
Subject: Re: Viper bridge Shaller version question


Joined:
May 2013
Posts: 9

Thank you for your replies.

I will try to figure out how to sort my problem - with this bridge it doesn't seem to be possible to get correct intonation with 6th string being 52 gauge.

I'll post my solution if I find one.

I am with Miles on the subject of black vs. chrome bridges on Ovation electrics - I prefer the black ones.

I have an Ovation Preacher Deluxe which has black three-screw bridge, and it was very easy to set it up correctly both for intonation and action.

I hope I mange to do the same with the Viper, since I really like the sound.

As always, it is great to be a member of this forum. So much knowledge and positive energy!

Best,

Dusan
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FlySig
Posted 2014-06-24 9:21 AM (#488009 - in reply to #487937)
Subject: Re: Viper bridge Shaller version question



Joined:
October 2005
Posts: 4046

Location: Utah		My memory is getting feeble, but I recall someone posting a while back that there is a slight difference in the either the neck or the bridge scale lengths between the Viper and Deacon models? Hopefully whomever it was will see this and post the accurate information. Anyhow it is possible that it becomes difficult to intonate if that part was swapped at some point.
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danomyte
Posted 2014-06-24 11:21 AM (#488013 - in reply to #487937)
Subject: Re: Viper bridge Shaller version question



Joined:
January 2014
Posts: 402

Location: Taxed To Death State		Those are definitely the correct studs and parts for that era Viper. They had to allow a little play in there so you can turn the studs and make adjustments with the strings tight. Apply never-seize on the stud threads, and brush some on the collar so it turns easily when you are setting it up. The bridge will never sit perfectly level like the older style black ones that have the stud through the body.
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danomyte
Posted 2014-06-24 11:30 AM (#488014 - in reply to #487937)
Subject: Re: Viper bridge Shaller version question



Joined:
January 2014
Posts: 402

Location: Taxed To Death State		Also the threads on the saddles are very tight because of the chroming, turning them can be a PIA when setting the intonation. What I recommend is with the bridge off, lubricate the threads with a little WD-40 and turn the saddle studs a bunch of turns in/out to get the threads loosened up & free and easy to turn. Reinstall and then set your intonation. Should be a bit easier to dial it in. Hope this helps.
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Damon67
Posted 2014-06-24 12:32 PM (#488016 - in reply to #487937)
Subject: Re: Viper bridge Shaller version question



Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6994

Location: Jet City		Dusan, the answer may be to sell it. I went through 4 or 5 Vipers before i found the one i wanted to keep. I finally decided on chrome bridge, maple body, ebony fingerboard.

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Dusan
Posted 2014-06-24 6:50 PM (#488035 - in reply to #487937)
Subject: Re: Viper bridge Shaller version question


Joined:
May 2013
Posts: 9

Dear friends,

Thank you very much for all the helpful advice.

In the end I managed to fix the issue.

I used two star washers form a toggle switch (miniature toggle switches have 6.5 mm neck) and cut them at one side. They are the right thickness - just under 0.5 mm and the diameter is the same as the one needed on the bridge.

I put the bridge in place and it stayed stable, parallel to the body, but lose enough for the studs to rotate.

The bridge is now as stable as the three screw one on my Preacher.

I installed 1st and 6th string to set up preliminary action, and then did the final action setup once all the strings were in place and in tune.

I adjusted the intonation and it is now ready to be played. It is just after midnight in London, so the amplifier will have to wait till tomorrow...

Best,

Dusan


Edited by Dusan 2014-06-24 6:58 PM




(05 washers.jpg)



(06 washers in space.jpg)



(07 bridge in position.jpg)



(08 action and intonation set.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 05 washers.jpg (96KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments 06 washers in space.jpg (228KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments 07 bridge in position.jpg (183KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments 08 action and intonation set.jpg (55KB - 0 downloads)
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