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scottypp |
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 18 | So, i bought a project guitar. It's a vintage Ovation that had been sent back to the factory for a new top. The new top originally looked like doo-doo. It was raw -plywood looking. But, after some 220 grit sanding, it looks much better. It has been pre-drilled for the bridge. It came with all the parts necessary to build it out. My only issue - is around the edges , where the binding meets the bowl. There are some "gaps". Any recommendation on how to "fill" those gaps ?? | ||
MWoody |
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Joined: December 2003 Posts: 13987 Location: Upper Left USA | Scott, Not sure where to start without photos. You do your own binding but if it was sent back to the factory for a new top why wouldn't have been finished? | ||
scottypp |
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 18 | pg"> | ||
scottypp |
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 18 | http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd198/scottypp/7e10e0e39dc492370... | ||
scottypp |
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 18 | http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd198/scottypp/d27553189a10e252e... http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd198/scottypp/6be6d82765974bee2... | ||
scottypp |
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 18 | a few Ipad pics, not the best quality- but best i can do for now. the top was very ruff wood, but i have sanded it in steps up to 220 grit - and it feels great. Am i missing the binding or something between the bowl and the edge ? | ||
MWoody |
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Joined: December 2003 Posts: 13987 Location: Upper Left USA | That does look odd. You'd expect the binding to stand a little proud. Could always add another layer to the binding. Sanding the Bowl down to match and refinishing the bowl is another option. | ||
DanSavage |
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Joined: June 2012 Posts: 2316 Location: Pueblo West, CO | MWoody - 2014-07-16 9:14 PM Scott, Not sure where to start without photos. You do your own binding but if it was sent back to the factory for a new top why wouldn't have been finished? I'm with you on this, Mike. I don't think the factory would send back an unfinished guitar, especially with it looking like that. I suspect the seller 'said' it was sent to the factory. Scott, Can you provide any pics of what the inside looks like where the top joins the kerfing? | ||
scottypp |
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 18 | http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd198/scottypp/20140718_181536.j... http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd198/scottypp/20140718_181451.j... thanks for the info, guys. Question...if i sand and refinish the bowl, how can i duplicate the "pebble finish" on the bowl. ' | ||
DanSavage |
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Joined: June 2012 Posts: 2316 Location: Pueblo West, CO | I'm not sure what type of paint they used on the bowls, but judging from how hard it is I would have to guess that it's either epoxy or polyurethane.
Here's a glimpse of what it looks like.
It's definitely softer than the factory paint, and takes a bit of practice to get it to look like the factory surface texture, but it does a pretty good job. I paid $10 for a can and bought it at my local AutoZone. | ||
scottypp |
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 18 | thats a great suggestion- thanks ! | ||
Tony Calman |
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Joined: August 2003 Posts: 4619 Location: SoCal | RustOleum (or however it is spelled) has a paint (in can) that covers almost all surfaces (wood, metal, etc.)...even made the 1987 frame of my patio door screen look like new even after at least 3 years. Used what is called a 'burnt copper' which was black but had light flakes of copper similar to the Adamas bowels. Might give it a great effect even better than the original. | ||
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