Hi all,
Years ago I posted about a 1768 Elite that I bought, which ended up having a badly warped and cracked top and braces.

http://www.ovationfanclub.com/megabbs/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=47407

https://imgur.com/a/ovation-1768-bent-top-2Jszd

I tried steaming the top and putting weights on it, which undid the warp just a little bit. But the braces themselves are definitely bent. I put the guitar back together and it surprisingly plays okay with a correct neck angle, but it still looks terrible and doesn't sound very good. I couldn't glue the fretboard extension down since the top is so warped underneath, so the high notes don't ring out at all. The birch ply behind the soundholes is delaminated a bit. I think the top has continued to shrink, too, as the binding is pulling away on the treble side of the lower bout. The fretboard wood is really rough textured too, which I don't like.

The good news is that in the intervening years I've done a lot of building of electric guitars and basses. I feel that my skills have progressed and maybe now I can do a full retopping and finally get the guitar playing and looking good like I always wanted it to be.

I have done full from scratch builds on electrics, a StewMac Kit ukulele, and refrets on other acoustics, but I have not done a full from scratch acoustic build. I use mostly hand tools, and am relatively confortable with joinery, precision dimensioning lumber and components, fretwork, binding, finishing, electronics, and inlay.
Bass Guitar Finished Photos
Bass Guitar Build Log
Custom guitar that I just finished

I've been reading the various retopping threads in this forum, especially this one which I found very helpful.

I wanted to ask the group about the feasibility of a retopping project and see if there's anything I'm overlooking... Here's what I'm envisioning for the project:

1. Trace the shape of the guitar body. Make some drawings.
2. Remove the binding
3. Remove the old top
4. Measure the old top: bracing location and profiles, soundholes, thickness
5. Joint and thickness plane the new top
6. Fabricate and glue on some thin laminate around the soundhole areas on the back
7. Drill out the soundholes
8. Maybe some decorative inlay around soundholes instead of "epaulets"?
9. Cut and shape the bracing, sand to the top radius
10. Glue on the bracing
11. (Do I need to do something here with the bowl to make sure the neck is at the correct angle?)
12. Glue the top onto the bowl
13. Route the binding channel into the top
14. Glue on binding
15. Glue on the bridge (or maybe after finishing?)
16. Pull frets
17. Attach neck, glue fretboard extension to top
18. Sand and re-radius the fretboard, and sand fall-away onto fretboard extension
19. Press in frets, level and dress, etc.
20. Finish the top (I usually use nitro lacquer over shellac)
21. Glue on bridge if not done earlier
22. Add strings, set up, etc.
23. (Celebrate?)

Assuming I'm not forgetting any major steps, I have some specific questions:

Do Ovations use a radius on the top? I don't have a radiused sanding dish, but could buy one. It would be great if I could use one in a "standard" radius for building more conventional acoustic guitars, which is something I'd like to do in the future.

I don't have a go-bar deck. Can I use deep-throated clamps to glue on the braces one by one?

As it sits now, the guitar has a full-width laminate across the top in the soundhole area. I see in the thread I linked above that Dan suggested in future builds only adding the laminate laminate behind the soundholes, which I'd also like to do. Any pitfalls I should be aware of?

I have on hand here a StewMac torrefied sitka top and a set of torrefied bracing stock, would those be acceptable to use? What top thickness do you guys recommend? I usually string my acoustics with 12's, by the way, and definitely like a responsive-feeling guitar. I'm not a heavy-handed player.

I've read in some of the retopping threads about heating the bowl to change the neck angle. Is that something I need to do? Is there a way to "measure" the alignment of the neck heel and bowl before I put everything together. Either way, I'm thinking of installing the frets after gluing on the neck, so that I get a chance to sand the fretboard with everything assembled. This is how I've refretted acoustics in the past. Is there any issue with doing things in this order? Only thing I can think of is maybe it'll be really hard to trim the fret ends where the fretboard tapers at the end.

I would like to lighten the weight of the guitar some if possible, and I also don't love the sound of the OP24 pickup and preamp. On my other acoustics I like to use a K&K Mini pickup with an outboard preamp. Could that be done here? Would it sound good? I'd hope to capture more of the tone of the top wood, not just the bridge saddle.
Maybe I could remove all of the electronics and cover up the hole in the side of the bowl? And if so, could I use a more "traditional" pinless bridge with a bone saddle? I would assume if I do so, I still need to have 2 bolts helping to hold the bridge onto the top? What sort of bolts do you recommend, maybe aluminum for light weight?

The fretboard extension has a tiny bit of back bow (visible in one of the photos) but I think this will be fine when it's glued to the top. Do you agree?

How do you guys set up clamps to glue on the freboard extension and bridge without a conventional soundhole? I'm thinking maybe use rare earth magnets?

How do you recommend removing the top? Heat gun and putty knife, to take the binding off first and then the top? I assume the kerfing (or whatever is in there?) stays attached to the bowl and is reused?

Some photos of the guitar as it sits now: