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Joined:
February 2002
Posts: 1817
Location: Minden, Nebraska | One of the problems I have run into on a number of occasions with Ovations is when the bridge shims have all been removed and the string height is too high even with the neck properly adjusted.
The only remedy I have found is to have the neck reset, and the guitars on which I have had this performed were all sent back to the factory for the job. While Paul Templeman's suggestion that such guitars be converted into slide guitars is humorous, it doesn't quite remedy the condition.
So, before I start playing 'Slow Ride' or 'Layla' ad nauseam and digging out all of my Bonnie Raitt, et al., recordings, do any of you have insights on this problem? |
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Joined:
February 2002
Posts: 5750
Location: Scotland | I'm guessing here, but as the K-bar necks are bolt-on, it seems practical to me that it should be possible to shim the neck joint to increase the neck pitch, though this would be best done at the factory. Having said that the majority of Ovations I've seen with neck-set problems have been the earlier non K-bar dove-tailed type, and this would seen to be more problematical.
The short term answer is to shave the top of the bridge, reducing the physical hieght of the bridge & increasing the string break. This is very common with older pinned-bridge guitars, but the pinless design of Ovation bridges limits now much material can be removed. |
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Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15654
Location: SoCal | From what I understand with neck resets on Ovations is that it's actually a bowl bend, where the bowl is heated up and bent. I recall being told that this can only be done with the older bowls, not the newer ones. I was under the impression that this was due to the material of the bowl, but it might be a comment on guitars with and without the K-bar. |
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Joined:
September 2003
Posts: 9301
Location: south east Michigan | My Balladeer is circa 1971. In the first 8 or so years I had to remove all the shims and the start to take material off the saddle. For all these years since it has not changed. As long as I used light strings, which I like anyway, the action is fine. I have about a dimes width from the low E string to the bridge. I would hate to have to take a dremel to it. There is a pic of the bridge in my album.
I just read Mr. Moody's entry. If something changes would it be practical to let the factory have a go at it or would the expence be an issue?
Brad |
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Joined:
June 2002
Posts: 6192
Location: Phoenix AZ | My understanding is a combination of what Paul M. and Paul T. have said. On old wood block necks, the only practical way to change the neck angle is to move the block which is done by actually heating and bending the bowl slightly that the block is attached to. On newer guitars (new be anything after mid 70's), the neck can be easily removed and the heel block shimmed, just like any other acoustic guitar. Easier yet of the neck is a bolt on. Dave |
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Joined:
February 2002
Posts: 1817
Location: Minden, Nebraska | Now THAT is an interesting and doable suggestion. I have an '89 Legend that I can experiment on. |
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Joined:
February 2002
Posts: 5750
Location: Scotland | The difficult part is removing the fingerboard from the top. |
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Joined:
February 2002
Posts: 1817
Location: Minden, Nebraska | I had forgotten about the fingerboard needing to be loosened..... shucks! Where did I put that slide....... |
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Joined:
June 2002
Posts: 6192
Location: Phoenix AZ | Paul, Is that true about having to remove the finderboard from the soundboard? Of course it is on a dovetail jointed neck, but I saw a local repair pro do an Ovation with a bolt on neck and all he did was unbolt the neck and shim it, but left the fingerboard attached to the soundboard. It fixed the "hump" in the neck at the 14th fret perfectly and he was able to set up the action as good as new. Dave |
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Joined:
February 2002
Posts: 5750
Location: Scotland | I've seen neck resets on non-ovations where the fingerboard has been cut at the 14th. I could be wrong but I cant see how the neck could be re-set while the fingerboard is still attached over the body. |
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Joined:
September 2002
Posts: 9
Location: WA. USA | As I understand it, in most cases where neck angle re-set is needed on guitars that have the fingerboard bound to the top, (Immoveable), it goes like thus;
The fret located where the neck meets the soundboard,(Fret #14), is removed and an ultra thin kerf saw is used to cut thru the fingerboard in the center of the now exposed fret groove.
Now the neck can be unbolted and reset, and the process reversed.
On "Set Neck" guitars, the fret is removed as above, But instead of sawing, a small hole about the size of a football inflation needle is drilled thru the fret groove, into the dovetail joint. Then steam is injected to soften the glue.
What I did to my 83 Stereo Elite, which had suffered from severe heat damage at the hands of the previous owner, Including finish cracks (cross grain), and a pretty bad neck bow, was this...
Adjust the neck as much as possible using the k-bar, and shim removal. (Bear in mind that lowering the saddle reduces the string's ramp angle from the fulcrum to the string hole/pin. Too low, and u mute the string, or cause intonation/buzz probs.). Then check the action again. Note how much more is needed.
Remove the strings, Loosen the neck boltjust enough to allow a small file between the bowl and neck heel. Shave a couple thou off the bowl, tighten the neck, and go!
WARNING !!
THIS METHOD IS NOT FOR ROOKIES, PEOPLE WHO ARE ACCIDENT PRONE, HAVE 2 LEFT FEET, OR GET BLACK EYES FROM PICKING THEIR NOSES!
HOWEVER, IF YOU ARE A GIFTED NEADERTOL NINJA WHO REGULARLY CREATES SILK PURSES FROM PIG EARS, HAS "PROTRACTOR CALIBRATED EYEBALLS", CAN USE A SIDE GRINDER AS AN EFFECTIVE MILLING MACHINE, (AND KNOWS THE DIFFERENCE!), YET ARE SO KEENLY AWARE OF THE DANGERS INVOLVED, THAT THE MERE THOUGHT OF ATTEMPTING SUCH A PROCEEDURE MAKES YOU PHYSICALLY SICK.... THEN YOU JUST MIGHT GET LUCKY, AND PULL IT OFF!
Otherwise, leave it to the PROS!!!
hehehehehe
Doc |
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Neck Resets
