|
|
Joined:
December 2008
Posts: 250
Location: Seattle | Ugh….. opened my 1778T and found the bridge totally popped.
It’s a clean break but not sure how fixable.
Lacking the traditional sound hole and having an access panel I just can not imagine a workable clamping/glue solution.
Are there solutions known here?
|
|
| |
|
Joined:
November 2002
Posts: 3611
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | STRONG magnets? I did some brace gluing on an access hatch model a long time ago. I will look for any photos of that operation. And, anything is fixable. Just depends on time, expense. and sanity. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
December 2008
Posts: 250
Location: Seattle | Thanks…. Interesting concept. would love to see the pics |
|
| |
|
Joined:
December 2008
Posts: 250
Location: Seattle | Open to all solutions
Edited by kentrookie 2024-03-05 8:15 AM
|
|
| |
|
Joined:
February 2014
Posts: 704
Location: moline,illinois | I know this is slighly sacrilege but if you go to facebook and look up RenOvation Nation the head of the group Steve McCormick can help you with clamping techniques for the Elite style bridge,I believe theres a special one for that style guitar or he could guide you on how to make one possibly.
Edited by 2wheeldrummer 2024-03-05 5:46 PM
|
|
| |
|
Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 2315
Location: Pueblo West, CO | Even though this is a Book Elite, here's how I clamped the bridge on my Frankenvation. (See: ???? 1778T(orrified)...) These clamps are available from Stewmac.com (See: Soundhole Clamps) You'll need to remove the inner adjuster to get the clamp through the sound hole. Once the clamp is through the hole, you can screw the adjuster back into the bottom of the clamp.
 
Edited by DanSavage 2024-03-09 2:47 PM
|
|
| |
|
Joined:
December 2008
Posts: 250
Location: Seattle | Thanks Dan ...... 2 additional questions on this solution....
>Is this clamp the 9 or 11"
https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/cl...
>What is the preferred glue to secure a bridge that does NOT have screws like the imported versions.
Edited by kentrookie 2024-03-09 5:19 PM
|
|
| |
|
Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 2315
Location: Pueblo West, CO | kentrookie - 2024-03-09 3:17 PM
Thanks Dan ...... 2 additional questions on this solution....
>Is this clamp the 9 or 11"
https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/clamps/soundhole-clamps/
>What is the preferred glue to secure a bridge that does NOT have screws like the imported versions.
The clamps you see in the pics are 7".
Ovation used epoxy. You'll want to use the slowest cure you can find. The stuff I use cures in 24 hours with full cure happening in 72 hours.
For jobs like this, I use Loctite 0151 which is an aerospace-grade epoxy similar to what Ovation used. The glue itself costs $37/tube. But, in order to use it you need a $55 applicator as the glue tubes don't have built-in plungers.
The glue is available through Grainger. (See: 0151 Epoxy)The applicator is available through McMaster-Carr. (See: Dispensing Gun for Two-Part Cartridge) For the most part, epoxy glue joints rely strictly on mechanical bond. Meaning, the glue needs a rough surface to grab onto. When the bridge is glued to bare wood, a slow-set epoxy, like 0151, will have time to wick down into the wood, making for a stronger glue joint. Since yours is a bridge that's been glued and the glue joint has failed, you'll need to rough up the top where the bridge originally sat as well as the underside of the bridge. I would use 220-grit sandpaper to do this. Make sure to mask off the area of the finished top before sanding the top.
Edited by DanSavage 2024-03-09 11:25 PM
|
|
| |
|
Joined:
December 2008
Posts: 250
Location: Seattle | Thanks …. Promising solution |
|
| |
Just how much trouble is this fix going to be?
