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December 2014
Posts: 1713
Location: Frozen Tundra of Minnesota | I would LOVE to learn to fix small divots and surface cracks in my Ovations, I have been reading the articles here on how to fix cracks and small divots, and have watched the videos on StewMac.
I think I can do it, but do not want to practice on one of my good guitars - would it be a good idea to get something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Broken-Ovation-Ultra-Series-Model-1512...
to practice on??? It seems cheap enough, and I certainly can't ruin it. I can get the supplies from StewMac and give it a try??
Thanks for your advice and any tips!  |
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Joined:
October 2005
Posts: 4044
Location: Utah | You could buy something at a local pawn shop or garage sale. An Ovation product would offer the benefit of being the same finish materials as your good Ovations. If you bought something usable but with some cosmetic damage you would have the option of selling it after you fix it up.
At $25 delivered, that one on ebay would be a pretty cheap option, too. |
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February 2014
Posts: 704
Location: moline,illinois | I think its a cool idea to learn to repair your own guitars and a practice model makes a lot of sense.did you see the applause with the broken headstock on feebay,about the same price and when your done you might have a finished guitar to hang on the wall. |
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December 2014
Posts: 1713
Location: Frozen Tundra of Minnesota | One more question (for now...) please?
How do you stabilize a roundback when trying to work on it? I bought one of those Fender mats with the neckholder for changing strings and polishing, and it is like trying to trim nails on a cat on it's back with all the rocking and rolling! What do you use to shore up, or block up the sides to keep it from rolling all over? I would imagine that it needs to be held quite still while gluing and fine sanding.
Thank You in Advance for your time and knowledge, I really appreciate the help! |
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January 2014
Posts: 402
Location: Taxed To Death State | I purchased an old broken brown case ($20) to use as a fixture to hold my Ovations. They fit quite well obviously and it holds the guitar very nice and snug. I just removed the hinge pins and took the lid off. I have one of those plastic neck stands that fits nice into the storage bin of the case. The guys down at Ovation service use a vacuum table fixture to secure the guitar. I have also seen other fixtures down there in the past made from the molded foam from inside a case. |
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Joined:
December 2014
Posts: 1713
Location: Frozen Tundra of Minnesota | danomyte - 2015-02-26 12:29 PM
I purchased an old broken brown case ($20) to use as a fixture to hold my Ovations. They fit quite well obviously and it holds the guitar very nice and snug. I just removed the hinge pins and took the lid off. I have one of those plastic neck stands that fits nice into the storage bin of the case. The guys down at Ovation service use a vacuum table fixture to secure the guitar. I have also seen other fixtures down there in the past made from the molded foam from inside a case.
That is a GREAT Idea!!! Thank You!!! |
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November 2002
Posts: 3611
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | I use a large cardboard box, with an undersize cutout of the bowl outline, then throw some bags of lead shot into the bowl, and it stabilizes things nicely. Crude, but effective. |
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Joined:
December 2014
Posts: 1713
Location: Frozen Tundra of Minnesota | seesquare - 2015-02-26 6:35 PM
I use a large cardboard box, with an undersize cutout of the bowl outline, then throw some bags of lead shot into the bowl, and it stabilizes things nicely. Crude, but effective.
Another Great Idea!!! Thank You!! |
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Joined:
August 2003
Posts: 4619
Location: SoCal | It isn't too hard to stabilize an Ovation when working on it...neck brace and base for bowl can be made from the foam that is used to brace something (TV, computer, dish washer, etc., inside the box. Or, use a couple of towels to brace the neck.
I would caution working on a off-shore "Ovation" which is an Applause or Celeb as from what I understand, the finish is different.
Before working on the top, check the braces and determine whether the crack is through the finish or through the wood.
The catalyzed polyester is very forgiving...old or spilled CYA, use CYA remover without damaging the finish; fill a crack with either water absorbent glue or CYA; surface can be lightly sanded (suggest 2,400 minimum grit, can then work up to a higher grit) so you can fill, let dry, then sand (maybe a number of times) - anything on the rest of the top can be easily wiped off. You can even use the top as a palette and use acrylic paint to match the rest of the stop. For natural, may only be making the crack look like natural grain. Kim once told me toughest is the dark sunburst, yet you can easily mix the paint to match the finish.
As an aside, the cracks may have been made by a lack of humidity. In this case, you may actually want to work on the crack before increasing the humidity. Adding humidity may make the crack tighten up where it may be difficult to clean and then work glue/paint into the crack. Patience is needed. Clean out the crack, add paint to match the top, and then increase the humidity to the appropriate level for the top to seal.
Note that damage can be caused by too much humidity (usually 80% or higher for a short time or 60-70% over several months) also. This can cause the wood to swell, causing glue joints to fail, finish to lift, and neck angles to go bad.
I have explained before how I bought a dark sunburst 1669 Custom Legend from a local rental agency ($300) that had a top with multiple cracks and CYA all over the top (as well as the worn top three frets), Even a mess inside on the bowl as the electronics wouldn't work so someone taped and glued a pickup with duct tape and CYA.
Fortunately, the neck, fretboard, and headstock were fine.
I was able to remove all of the CYA with CYA remover. Then, totally eliminated a number of the cracks from bridge to bottom, worked a long crack (about 7" long) along the base side to a point where it would be difficult to see unless looking at the top from a 45 degree angle. Replaced the saddle (nothing wrong with the p/u) and the mustache that was missing (binding at end of fretboard). It required matching the top finish with acrylic paint and mixing into the glue, sanding, filling again, and again. Replaced the worn frets. Course, then used a buffer on the top.
Result is a great guitar both visually and playability...deep bowl dark sunburst cutaway CL that I would never be embarrassed with.
I credit the time that Kim Keller spent with me over the phone to advise on how to repair cracks, as well as to have the confidence to do it. There are some cracks (i.e., at an angle) that you can not make disappear but the factory may have been unable to make it disappear without a complete strip of the top.
Edited by Tony Calman 2015-02-27 1:28 AM
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December 2014
Posts: 1713
Location: Frozen Tundra of Minnesota | Thank You So Much Tony!!!!
I am learning so much already, I want to take good care of these Beauties I am entrusted with!
Is there a certain scratch remover/polish that anyone recommends? I got a 1112-4 in that needs to have her frets polished too, what size of steel wool do you recommend??
Thank You again for your help!!!
And a Tip I found for the black cases that are scratched up - Kiwi Heel and Toe Scuff Shoe polish in the bottle with the foam applicator is Wonderful! I put on a couple of coats, letting it dry between, then hit it with Armor All, and the old, scuffed up case looks like brand new!!! I am going to try the paste Mid-Tan on the older brown cases to see how that works in restoring those cases!
We make our guitars look good, the cases should too!  |
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Joined:
October 2005
Posts: 4044
Location: Utah | For fret polishing I prefer the StewMac polishing pads. They work quickly and there is no need to mask off the fretboard or worry about steel wool filings.
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Sanding/Micro-Mes...
The other method I've had good luck with is using jewelry rouge on a dremel felt wheel. But it requires masking off the fretboard.
You can use the StewMac metal fretboard protectors if you want. They look like large old fashioned razor blades. I find they are not enough to keep rouge off of the fretboard, and they are not necessary when using the polishing pads. Some people seem to like using them but I don't recommend spending the money on them.
Edited by FlySig 2015-02-27 6:55 PM
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Joined:
December 2014
Posts: 1713
Location: Frozen Tundra of Minnesota | Thank You!!! I have the pads on my List to get, and I have jewelers rouge, and the Dremel pad wheels for doing my jewelry!! I hadn't thought of using that! Thanks!! You guys are Great!!!!!  |
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Good Idea??
