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Joined:
August 2003
Posts: 4619
Location: SoCal | Been using Guitar Honey on fretboard and bridges...nice
By Gerlitz...about $6.95 a bottle |
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Joined:
April 2008
Posts: 2336
Location: Brighty in Blighty | Any idea where I can get Trewax? |
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Joined:
April 2008
Posts: 2336
Location: Brighty in Blighty | So I'm going for
Dunlop 65 Cleaner and Polish for body
Dunlop 65 Lemon Oil for fretboard
Dunlop 65 Cream of Carnauba wax for neck |
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Joined:
August 2002
Posts: 8307
Location: Tennessee | I like the Dunlop 65 for the guitar.
For the fretboard and bridge, I really like this stuff: FRET DOCTOR . Nothing I've ever tried comes even close to how good this stuff works.
I'm probably odd man out, but I find no reason at all to wax the neck. If they are gloss, they never need anything except for a wipe down with your guitar cloth. On the natural necks, I find the natural oils in my hand are all they ever really need ... although I will wipe them from time to time with the rag I use to wipe off the Fret Doctor from the fretboard (I use the same rag every time). |
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Joined:
April 2008
Posts: 2336
Location: Brighty in Blighty | That stuff looks interesting and it does say...
"If a fife or a fret board is made from wood that has been properly and slowly air dried (not in a kiln), and most stresses in the wood have been relieved at the time of construction, chances are nothing bad (cracking) will happen to it later on. So, in a sense, we are treating a non-problem here" |
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Joined:
April 2007
Posts: 61
Location: Montréal, québec, Canada | Windex on a seagul?????
I tought I read nonwax polish in the owner's manual ????
ever tried Gibson polish?? |
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Joined:
August 2002
Posts: 8307
Location: Tennessee | Bernard ... yes. I used the Gibson polish (orange bottle) for years until I found the Dunlop polish about 6 or so years ago. I always thought the Gibson was fine, but the Dunlop just seems to work a bit better.
Dweezil ... he's probably right but I don't have perfect environmental conditions nor am I sure every guitar has perfectly air-dried wood ... and I really use it for the way it makes the wood look and feel more than I worry about the fingerboard cracking. |
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Joined:
April 2008
Posts: 2336
Location: Brighty in Blighty | StoneBobbo - he certainly has a convincing argument. Might just give it a whirl. |
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Joined:
April 2007
Posts: 61
Location: Montréal, québec, Canada | Stonebobbo, thanks , I shouls of ask one week ago !!!! just bought the Gibson....
By the time it's empty I will be getting old...
I already use Dunlop lemon oil .
Should of stick with that Dunlop stuff.. |
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Joined:
August 2002
Posts: 8307
Location: Tennessee | Dweezil ... I am seriously sold on the stuff. I especially like the way it makes the bridges look ... brings out the grain, colorizes and makes the wood shine. Takes a bit of time for the full effect. But I can tell you that the carved walnut bridge on my 1187-8 is really starting to come in nicely. In another year or so, it will have the depth and shine that you see on the original slotheads. You'll also see an immediate difference in your rosewood fretboard.
Bernard - the Gibson stuff is just fine. It all may be doily knitting anyway ... I know a fairly trustworthy expert who swears by Pledge. ;) |
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Joined:
June 2004
Posts: 375
Location: Rocky River, Ohio | the Ovation factory uses Dunlop 65.
It works great on my cedar balladeer that has a similar satin finish to your elite.
Trewax can be found at most hardware stores. My local Ace and True Value carry them.
Waxing the neck is something I only do yearly. I play maybe a couple hours a week on my balladeer. |
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Cleaning Elite Special S868 natural finish?
