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nearixson
Posted 2002-07-18 11:51 AM (#220176)
Subject: Newbie Questions:


Joined:
July 2002
Posts: 6

Location: colorado
1)What's the 'real world' consensus (if there is one) on the difference between the multi-soundhole and single-soundhole guitars?

2) Say I have a balladeer that I bought second hand ('cause i do), and I love it. But, I'd like to upgrade and tweak it a little bit. Like, replacing the tuning machines, or the nut with higher-quality items. Any recomendations?

thanks,
-nathan
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moody, p.i.
Posted 2002-07-18 12:13 PM (#220177 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15677

Location: SoCal
My personal opinion is that the bracing is more important that the sound hole configuration (altho' the multi sound holes do hold a slight edge in sound). Any Ovation from the 80's forward with the A bracing, I think, has a better sound than the older Ovations. There are exceptions to that, but it's a decent rule of thumb.

As to upgrading components, that's a personal choice. I've done it to my old Country Artist and to my Viper and been thrilled with the results. But I also like having a good looking woman on my arm. Thank god my wife doesn't feel the need for a good looking man.
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Standingovation
Posted 2002-07-18 3:01 PM (#220178 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:



Joined:
June 2002
Posts: 6202

Location: Phoenix AZ
Nathan,

My personal opinion is that I prefer the round soundhole with A or X bracing, non-cutaway, deep bowl. Others will disagree, but that's my opinion.

As far as upgrades, I would only replace the tuners if they absolutely don't work well. Don't upgrade just for the looks. There is more and more interest these days in maintaining original configuration even if it's a little banged up. Just look what Fender charges for a Relic series guitar - a brand new guitar which is bashed around to look 40 years old! As far as the nut, again why change? I challange anyone in a blind listening test to hear the difference between a plastic nut and a bone nut.

Dave
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Jiminos
Posted 2002-07-18 3:36 PM (#220179 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:


Joined:
April 2002
Posts: 196

Location: Shelton, Washington, USA
hmmm.... I have an old Balladeer and I have a couple Multi holed beasties (an Elite and an Adamas) for me the difference seems that the multi's have a much better tonal balance. No part of the range of the guitar seems overbearing as compared to any other range. Strangely, it feels like there is a lot more vibration going on with the multi's (maybe it's cuz the sound holes are in the upper bouts rather than smack dab in the middle of the sound board....) Seems like the projection is much better on the multi's, too. (but what do I know)
As for changing out stuff on your Balladeer... Mine is a 78, it ain't the prettiest, but it is all original and I wouldn't change a thing on it. Don't change a guitar's set up for cosmetic reasons... change a guitar's set up to improve the sound or the performance.... wait til something breaks, then try to replace it with original. If ya can't find original, then upgrade (carefully)
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Beal
Posted 2002-07-18 8:16 PM (#220180 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:



Joined:
January 2002
Posts: 14127

Location: 6 String Ranch
There is another school of thought that says go ahead and change the keys and other types of "bolt on" things but keep the originals so you could always go back if you want to.
I bought a square neck 1940 National style 97 in A+ shape, sent it to National and had them make a new round neck. Now I can play it but I have the original square one in the original case. When it gets sold in the future it will have both necks and two cases so the next guy can make the choice. It has not detracted from the integrity of the instrument. (I know some tuttbutts could argue that point but so be it)
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moody, p.i.
Posted 2002-07-18 11:56 PM (#220181 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15677

Location: SoCal
There are guitars that I'd mess with and guitars I wouldn't mess with. On my Country Artist, I put on gold tuners, strap buttons, and washer on the plug. I want to put in an OP24 Plus to replace the old preamp. My Viper now has (as you all know and are tired of hearing, a Preacher Deluxe neck and an Ovation humbucking pick up in the neck position.

I wouldn't touch my 1537 Elite except to put on larger strap buttons. I also wouldn't touch my Adamas 12.

I doubt that I'd ever sell any of these guitars. I love them the way they are. I also doubt if the Country Artist or the Viper will ever have any major value (before or after). I just like them and enjoy playing them now more than before.

Am I right or wrong? By the way, that's a rhetorical question. I already have an answer.
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George
Posted 2002-07-19 1:25 AM (#220182 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:


Joined:
June 2002
Posts: 164

Location: Denton, Texas
I'll be sending my '79 vintage Custom Legend to the Ovation folks around the end of the month for new electronics and pickup. It currently has the original dual stacked volume and tone knobs. Another Custom Legend owner has suggested the OPTIMA electrics and CP-1000 pickup. Any suggestions, do's or don'ts? Don't want to have it done and then find out I shoulda asked first.
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Paul Templeman
Posted 2002-07-19 4:49 AM (#220183 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:


Joined:
February 2002
Posts: 5750

Location: Scotland
On the subject of nuts, there is little difference in tone between a bone nut & a good synthetic nut such as micarta, corian or tusq, but cheap plastic nuts not only have an adverse affect on tone & sustain but wear out much faster

Don't bother changing the pickup on the Custom Legend, the CP1000 is a thinline pickup & will mean quite a bit of work on the bridge. The Optima is a great pre-amp but check out the new OP40 as well

[ July 19, 2002: Message edited by: Paul Templeman ]
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Bluebird
Posted 2002-07-19 7:01 AM (#220184 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:



Joined:
May 2002
Posts: 1445

Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Another alternative is to make up a patch cord to connect the pickup directly to the output jack, then run it into an outboard preamp system such as a LR Baggs Para DI. Remember, the pickups themselves have changed very little, only the electronics. This is a good way to leave the guitar in stock condition, yet have the advantages of modern preamps. This would, as well, allow you to experiment with different preamps to find the one best suited to you. Wether Ovations become fairly valuable over time or not, I personally prefer not to make any permanent mods that are not necessary. I have a proto/custom built Glen Campbell Adamas that I did this to.

Wayne

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Beal
Posted 2002-07-19 7:28 AM (#220185 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:



Joined:
January 2002
Posts: 14127

Location: 6 String Ranch
Very Cool Guitar! I remember it well. My father has one like it too. Look on the lable and there should be a date when it was finished, probably disguised as a six s/n digit number. 79? 80? 81?
The electronics are from the Magnum 2 bass.
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cliff
Posted 2002-07-19 8:26 AM (#220186 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 14842

Location: NJ
That IS a way cool guitar!!!

Don't think I like the Old English lettering on it, though. Sorry, but being a "LetterHead" by trade, things like Old English on an arc "pucker" me a bit, but that's just me. Still, an AWESOME guitar!!!

On the topic, when the 26 year old tuners on my CB started to show signs, I upgraded to gold tuners just because they looked so friggin' NOICE on it (and it was a sort of symbolic way of showing some appreciation for faithful years of service - what's a guitar gonna do with a gold watch?)and I replaced the pickup/saddle from the old divot-ridden white to a new black one (thanx again for the parts, Al!).

My SlotHead, I wouldn't DARE touch!
The only thing that I've done is epoxy in the front strap "ring" (it has a ring instead of a pin) when it came out at a gig (and almost caused me a coronary!). My guitarist suggesting getting the fingerboard refinished as it shows it's years of wear, but I'm just afraid that the result would be too "garish" when compared to the overall "patina" of the rest of the guitar. My feelings are it's earned the wear, it should show it.
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Bluebird
Posted 2002-07-19 9:15 AM (#220187 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:



Joined:
May 2002
Posts: 1445

Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
cwktwo;

There is no sin # on the label but you had been so kind as to inscribe, in pen, on the label as follows: "For Glen Campbell, completed 07-08-'81. C. W. Kaman II". I have some video of GC playing it, including a segment of just Glen accompanying himself with this guitar at the Ryman in Nashville. Very cool.
Magnum bass electronics?? Now that’s' an interesting piece of new info...just how did that come about, and who's concept was this?
By the way, this guitar has a super shallow bowl, pre-dating any production SS bowls by a couple of years, and twelve years ahead of production super-shallow Adamas'.
The orig case is a deep bowl case but has a custom padding job to convert it to accommodate the SS guitar. This thing plays like a dream...
Bill, is this guitar perhaps the first SSB to leave the factory?

Wayne
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Bluebird
Posted 2002-07-19 9:19 AM (#220188 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:



Joined:
May 2002
Posts: 1445

Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Cliff D;

I agree with leaving the wear signs on the neck as long as they are not interfering with playability. They are well earned and look way cool IMHO.

Wayne
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nearixson
Posted 2002-07-19 4:28 PM (#220189 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:


Joined:
July 2002
Posts: 6

Location: colorado
Thanks for all the replies, folks. Now, does anyone know what the nut/saddle material on a 1996 1861 would be?

thanks,
-nathan
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Beal
Posted 2002-07-19 4:34 PM (#220190 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:



Joined:
January 2002
Posts: 14127

Location: 6 String Ranch
the 1861 nut and saddle are delrin

The GC is probably one of the very first SS. The Mag 2 electronics were great, with the 3 bands and volume compensation for each. It's the same that's in the OP 24. They are in that guitar cause I liked them. 1983 was the first production SS.
Cliff, If we had had your number you could have done the letters.
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cliff
Posted 2002-07-19 5:07 PM (#220191 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 14842

Location: NJ
Thanks, Bill. I appreciate that.
It would'a been an honor!
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Bluebird
Posted 2002-07-20 9:09 AM (#220192 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:



Joined:
May 2002
Posts: 1445

Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
ckwtwo; I know that Glen Campbell's desire for a shallower bowl guitar was the reason for introducing the Artist depth bowl, but did he have any influence or input into the SS bowl? I have always wondered about that after getting this very early SS guitar.
About the electronics; I didn't realize these were basically OP24 configuration. They work but I found them to be somewhat muddy sounding and the EQ had very little effect on the sound which is why I bypassed them, thinking they were just outdated. Is there anyone you could recommend to sent them to for repair? It sounds killer through the LR Baggs but I would repair the original system if is would sound good.
I had heard through the 'vine there were three of these made, although the other two were without the name under the scratch guard of course.

Thanks!

Wayne
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Beal
Posted 2002-07-20 7:04 PM (#220193 - in reply to #220176)
Subject: Re: Newbie Questions:



Joined:
January 2002
Posts: 14127

Location: 6 String Ranch
Glen liked more midrange in his guitar, so we made the bowl shallow for him and got the sound. The SS was first done by Nick Mackin who ran the Adamas shop. No input from GC on that one.
The OP24 went through a redesign from the Mag2 electronics but it was basically the same concept and layout.
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