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DOA electronics, Custom Legend
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| Forums Archive -> The Vault: 2004-2005 | Message format | |
| Tony Calman |
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Joined: August 2003 Posts: 4619 Location: SoCal | I have a 1669 (Custom Legend cutaway with stacked vol/tone knobs on side) - non-working electronics - was disclosed by seller. New battery, no corrosion, appears no loose/damaged connections. No output on mono or stereo connection. If plugged to amp and amp turned up, can get a hum from amp if I turn guitar vol knob up (so some signal is being sent.) Have to believe it is pickup. Can pickup on saddle be taken apart & repaired? Any other ideas... Very nice guitar once I took large amount of super glue off of the top (solvent works great.) Either fix current electronics, leave acoustic, or check out updating to newer electronics. | ||
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| Paul Templeman |
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Joined: February 2002 Posts: 5750 Location: Scotland | Tony, other than the jack connection the pickups are pretty much unrepairable. It's unlikely to be the pickup. It's much more likely to be a wiring problem (check the output jack & pickup connection at the pre) or component failure in the preamp. The early preamps are pretty basic & repairable by most competent techs. I have 1 stereo V/T Fet3 preamp which I'm not in a hurry to unload, so talk to Kim or John first. | ||
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| CharlieB |
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Joined: January 2004 Posts: 648 Location: Florida | Maybe you could take the pickup out of another guitar and see if it works with that preamp? Not a little bit of work, but it might be a cheap thing to do in order to nail it down. FWIW, I had a nice electrical problem on a Guild solid body this weekend. Ended up just being a dirty switch, which cleaned up with some ProGold contact cleaner. | ||
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| Tony Calman |
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Joined: August 2003 Posts: 4619 Location: SoCal | Paul, thanks. Don't have anything to check components but will go back through it again. What has been bugging me all day is that it seems more like a short, or break in wire. All connections appeared to be clean and firm. Curious about a metal stud extending down from the saddle, scored but can't tell if there had been a wire (ground?) soldered to it. Maybe there is a short between the mono and stereo 1/4". Not giving up on it yet. | ||
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| Tony Calman |
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Joined: August 2003 Posts: 4619 Location: SoCal | As a last effort, guess I could use components from a 1619 (also stereo) to isolate...anyone have schematics for this? At least if I upgrade, it is mounted on the side so no need to plug the hole. However, if it comes to that, will probably just leave it as an acoustic - heck, my first 1658 was acoustic. Only paid $305 plus California sales tax. | ||
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| Nils |
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Joined: March 2002 Posts: 1380 Location: Central Oregon | I freely admit that this is morbid idle curiosity, but how much is the California Sales Tax on $305 Tony? I'm sure any ideas I have you've already tried so I won't be of any help with the electrics. Why was all the Superglue on it? /\/\/ | ||
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| Patsbro |
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Joined: June 2002 Posts: 136 Location: Parkersburg, WV | Tony, Check your E-mail. Patsbro | ||
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| Tony Calman |
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Joined: August 2003 Posts: 4619 Location: SoCal | Nils, ye of walnut TRC fame...got some nice compliments on the couple that I gave away. Lots of glue between rosette and bridge so must have been the not uncommon loose rosette. At least it didn't crack first. Then, unlike an episode where I got a very small smudge, this guy had glue all over the top...good fingerprints. Earlier, Kim had told me of using solvent to remove it...doesn't do a thing to the finish so an easy solution. Unfortunately, there is residue like the back of tape across the inside label but not bad. Removed crud, gunk, and whatever...even the ivory binding was almost brown. Didn't look too good when I opened a case that looked like it did a tour in Iraq. All came back. Beautiful instrument, booming deep bowl sound, sweet action - a sweet lady deserving a little TLC. Sorry, when you run a guitar adoption agency, you get involved. :) | ||
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| Nils |
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Joined: March 2002 Posts: 1380 Location: Central Oregon | What kind of solvent did you use on the Superglue? Come to think of it what did you use to get the rest of the gunk off? I'm glad it cleaned up nicely. /\/\/ | ||
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| Tony Calman |
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Joined: August 2003 Posts: 4619 Location: SoCal | Solvent is for Cyanoacrylate, an alcohol/nitroalkanes based solution. Finish, as we all know, is very hard (catalyzed polyester.) Not what I'd recommend on a lacquer. For other...Dunlop 65, Sol-u-mel, q-tips, lemon oil (fretboard,) etc...standard stuff and a little rubbing. And, a some steel wool on the frets and fret board. | ||
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| MWoody |
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Joined: December 2003 Posts: 13997 Location: Upper Left USA | I may post separate but while we're talking about fixing things - what is a good adhesive to secure a loose or cracked rosette? | ||
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| Jeff |
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Joined: June 2002 Posts: 863 Location: Central Florida | Hey Tony, I too am clueless when it comes to electronics. However, I was relieved (in a sorta "misery loves company" kinda way) to hear you say that loose rosettes on Custom Legends are not uncommon. I currently have one (and my brother used to have one) with this problem. In fact, mine is so bad that it buzzes when I play above a certain volume level. I've thought about doing the super glue thing, but I'm afraid to lift up too much on the rossette, since it already has a couple of small hairline cracks; and not sure if the super glue would dull or discolor the abalone. Have you (or anyone else) tried this on any of your guitars, and if so, what was the result? Is it the abalone that causes it not to adhere as well? Thanks, Jeff | ||
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| Tony Calman |
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Joined: August 2003 Posts: 4619 Location: SoCal | Jeff, you have one up on me...I'm clueless and braindead. Probably inhaling JP4. I don't believe it is common but I had a small edge of one rosette, seen a couple of eBay sellers with the rosette loose or with a cracked rosette (the eBay guitars looked like they had been misused/abused.) Just as I have seen Martin pickguards with problems. For the small edge, I carefully tacked it with a small amount of super glue - I know I can wipe off the glue from the top. However, doubt if I can get it off of the rosette without damage. Unless someone here has the answer, I would talk to John or Kim at the factory. Hopefully, I will be able to get a couple of pieces of a replaced/broken top to experiment with as I want to practice the seal and buff technique the factory does to mitigate finish cracks. I am the type of guy that as a youngster took apart radios not knowing how to put them back together again...even took the head off of my mom's 1940 Plymouth (to clean out the gunk) - had to be towed to the garage after that episode. | ||
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| Wuzhizzoner |
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Joined: June 2002 Posts: 1614 Location: Converse, Texas | Tony: I'd recommend sending it to Kim or John at the mother ship. | ||
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| seesquare |
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Joined: November 2002 Posts: 3666 Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | I'd suggest using some 2-part epoxy on the rosette. The capillary action should draw the adhesive between the rosette and the top pretty well. Make sure to tidy up any excess with some vinegar or real diluted acetic acid while the epoxy is setting up. And, I'd use the 90-minute type epoxy. Good luck! | ||
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| MWoody |
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Joined: December 2003 Posts: 13997 Location: Upper Left USA | I think I will just use a little of that "snot" stuff that everything comes packaged with. It's more of a gummy paste. I should bereadily removable when I do send it to the Factory for evaluation. I fall into the category Tony described. On my Father's Day list is a Dremel tool and I have picked up some books on Marquetry and Inlay work. I have a "Winston" Classical that I tore down and did the physical repairs to. It may become a "Test site" for some inlay techniqes. It has the afore-mentioned stained fretboard and low end tuners. It may end up with MOP inlay and one or more OFC devices before I'm done! It will stil sound and play like a Post-War POS but I'll learn whether or not I have a talent or if I should stick to framing only. But theFactory is still the best way to go with an O. | ||
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| Tony Calman |
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Joined: August 2003 Posts: 4619 Location: SoCal | re: "But the Factory is still the best way to go with an O." I have two back there (or soon to arrive) - the Adamas I should be done ? this week and the 1776 Patriot that Paul B. sold me. Both cases, had seller ship direct. | ||
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| Steve |
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Joined: July 2002 Posts: 1900 | Tony, I had the same problem with the same stacked tone/volume preamp in my country artist; had a tech trouble shoot it and learned the fet and one capacitor were burnt; simple repair considering they were mexican made and ovation doesn't have 'em anymore... steve | ||
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| cliff |
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Joined: March 2002 Posts: 14842 Location: NJ | Tony; Being that you've never played an old Adamas before, I'm eager to hear your "take" on it. | ||
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| Tony Calman |
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Joined: August 2003 Posts: 4619 Location: SoCal | Steve - thanks...will have to check around for an old toaster repairman Cliff - so am I, shame ya hafta buy one to try one... All ye in SoCal...maybe we can get a hotel meeting room up by Paul (Orange County) - bring all of the instruments in, even the Mexican wall hanger...buffet and bar on one side, guitars and amps on the other side. Spouses or significant others (if they don't want to participate) could stay at the pool, beach, or go shopping. Course, with the Mustang, I would have to rent a van to bring more than one. Heck, maybe Dave would come over from Phoenix, Serge from his home in Texas?? Don't want to go all of way to Orange County ?? - I rent the conference room at the Encinitas Inn & Suites at Moonlight Bay (Encinitas) for $150 for the day. Right on the beach. Room far enough away not to upset the management. I'd toss in some dollars for the room. | ||
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| CharlieB |
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Joined: January 2004 Posts: 648 Location: Florida | I thought Titebond was the glue of choice for rosettes? | ||
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| Bob Mintus |
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Joined: November 2003 Posts: 100 Location: Warren, OH | If you opt to use epoxy, you can thin it out by heating the two parts up using hot water or a microwave (very carefully) BEFORE they are mixed. It will also decrease the cure time. Fast setting cyanoacrylate should be nice and thin, too, and will wick underneath the rosette, but if you're not careful, will run all over. You could try Titebond or a white glue in a syringe, too... | ||
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| stonebobbo |
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Joined: August 2002 Posts: 8307 Location: Tennessee | Tony ... great idea. Some of us from NoCal can also make the scene. I can load up lady stonebobbo's Land Rover and kill a couple of million bugs down 5. My sis lives in Newport Beach so OC is fine, but then again adding an hour for Encinitas won't make much difference! On the other topic, I used titebond for both a peeling epaulet on my 2000 Lacewood and for regluing a rosette on my USA Ultra. Worked great ... no muss, no fuss. | ||
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| Tony Calman |
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Joined: August 2003 Posts: 4619 Location: SoCal | Heck, I think it would be fun...anyone else game? Could even bring the extra guitar for sale or trade...you know, play before buy. Anyone from the factory going to be in the area this summer or early fall - course in SoCal, we have to look at the calendar as we don't have seasons. | ||
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| stonebobbo |
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Joined: August 2002 Posts: 8307 Location: Tennessee | Sure we have seasons Tony ... just gotta know how to recognize them. In the winter the surfers wear full wetsuits, spring and fall it's half-suits, and the summer it's boardshorts. ;) | ||
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DOA electronics, Custom Legend