|
|
Joined:
September 2010
Posts: 59
Location: Michigan | Anyone know where to find these? Need 4. Local hardware had nothing this size. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 2320
Location: Pueblo West, CO | Can you post a pic of one of the screws? |
|
| |
|
Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15664
Location: SoCal | Have you checked with John Budny at the repairship? |
|
| |
|
Joined:
September 2010
Posts: 59
Location: Michigan | I will try to get a photo up tonight.
I do not know who John Bundy is. Forgive my ignorance. The repairship? |
|
| |
|
Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | John Budny is our friend at the MotherShip... Back when there was a MotherShip.
john.budny(at)kmcmusic.com
HERE is a thread about the Repair Shop.
As to the screws, do you have ONE screw?
If so, I would just go to the Hardware Store and get a bunch.
Edited by Old Man Arthur 2014-12-15 2:36 PM
|
|
| |
|
Joined:
September 2010
Posts: 59
Location: Michigan | Arthur - another bit of timely advice. Thanks for the thread link. I will contact John. I was unaware that after the factory closed that there was some service availability - even limited. Great news.
The 1868 Elite (from the other thread) plays wonderfully. A real treat as E shaped bar chords are very manageable up to D (10th fret) and lead up to the 15th is clear and crisp. Even notes to the 22nd are distinct enough to make do in a gig (not ES 335 quality but more than acceptable). Cleaned it, waxed it, oiled the fingerboard, new set of d'Addarios and now just need to replace the rusty pre-amp screws. Cleaned the preamp with QRC electronic cleaner and it sounds superb through my Traynor AM Custom. So I am much happier than when I first received this worn guitar - as it has a soul that yearns to be played. Some instruments simply need rescuing and I felt a need to save this one.
Thanks again.
Edited by Flash1717Legend 2014-12-15 8:49 PM
|
|
| |
|
Joined:
September 2010
Posts: 59
Location: Michigan | here are pics of the pre-amp screws
 (3868-3x3.gif)
Attachments
----------------
 3868-3x3.gif (78KB - 0 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 2320
Location: Pueblo West, CO | These look like 32-thread count self-tapping screws, possibly 6/32 x 1/4" or maybe 8/32 x 1/4". I would say the self-tapping part is not needed as the holes are (now) already tapped. So, any Philip-head screws matching the thread/length could be used.
Since your local hardware store doesn't have any, you might check at your local hobby store, or even a electronics store like Radio Shack.
Failing that, you could always order them online from McMaster-Carr. (See: http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=v1sn38)
Edited by DanSavage 2014-12-16 10:20 AM
|
|
| |
|
Joined:
January 2014
Posts: 402
Location: Taxed To Death State | The hardware section at Kome Cheapo, Tractor Shoe Fly, or Blowes has all those trays of screws in every size imaginable. I can't imagine these are any kind of proprietary size. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
March 2005
Posts: 12758
Location: Boise, Idaho | danomyte - 2014-12-16 11:22 AM
The hardware section at Kome Cheapo, Tractor Shoe Fly, or Blowes has all those trays of screws in every size imaginable. I can't imagine these are any kind of proprietary size.
It's hard to find black screws at the big box stores, though. At least it was for me when I was trying to find some for guitar hangers. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
April 2010
Posts: 823
Location: sitting at my computer | Just a thought... lots of automotive trim screws are black, so ya might try the local AutoZone or Discount Auto Parts stores. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
September 2010
Posts: 59
Location: Michigan | Great ideas. Thank you. Hope to have them tomorrow.
fyi - the john.bundy email address did not work for me. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
March 2010
Posts: 486
Location: Suisun City, Ca | When it comes to black, you'd be surprised how well a marks-a-lot marker works... |
|
| |
|
Joined:
September 2010
Posts: 59
Location: Michigan | Yes - a marker was an option. I tried first cleaning the old screws with CRC, then WD40, then baking soda/water. and blackened a couple of the better ones with a permanent marker - just wasn't quite what I was after.
I did find suitable replacement screws at a commercial Bolt/Screw distributor. Hex head - but same length and thread size. Pics attached of the "before" and "after". An improvement in my view.
The body was cleaned, waxed, neck was oiled, new strings, and the pre-amp screws replaced. Next up is the battery box loose then decide on a replacement fingerboard.frets. Plays really good at the present.
Edited by Flash1717Legend 2014-12-17 2:05 PM
 (3771-3x5.gif)
 (3869-3x5.gif)
 (3871-5x7.gif)
 (3872-3x5.gif)
 (3873-3x5.gif)
 (3877-3x5.gif)
 (3878-3x5.gif)
 (3874-3x5.gif)
 (3876-3x5.gif)
Attachments
----------------
3771-3x5.gif (98KB - 0 downloads)
3869-3x5.gif (65KB - 0 downloads)
3871-5x7.gif (79KB - 0 downloads)
3872-3x5.gif (78KB - 0 downloads)
3873-3x5.gif (69KB - 0 downloads)
3877-3x5.gif (85KB - 0 downloads)
3878-3x5.gif (79KB - 0 downloads)
3874-3x5.gif (72KB - 0 downloads)
3876-3x5.gif (70KB - 0 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Joined:
October 2005
Posts: 4046
Location: Utah | The name is spelled budny not bundy, probably why the email didn't work. |
|
| |
|
Joined:
September 2010
Posts: 59
Location: Michigan | FlySig - 2014-12-17 7:43 PM
The name is spelled budny not bundy, probably why the email didn't work.
Thank you. I will make the correction for my files. |
|
| |
WTB Op24 preamp screws
