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October 2005
Posts: 4044
Location: Utah | What was the type of clear gloss coat used by Ovation in the 1970's? And, what would be compatible with it today to make repairs? |
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November 2002
Posts: 3611
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | I've heard it was a water-based, acrylic polyester, though unspecified manufacturer. That's why it takes a week to set up. Could be all-wet, on this one, but....you asked. |
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Posts: 13987
Location: Upper Left USA | As a Poly anything you will not be able to melt into the finish like you can Lacquer or Shellac.
It's the Ovation way. |
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October 2005
Posts: 4044
Location: Utah | Does that mean a spray lacquer will not stick to it? |
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June 2012
Posts: 2316
Location: Pueblo West, CO | The solvents in lacquer are acetone and toluene. If you wanted to test whether these would etch the surface of the poly finish, you could get a small jar of dope thinner from your local hobby shop and test on an unobtrusive area.
If the dope thinner doesn't etch the surface, then the lacquer probably won't chemically bond with the poly finish. This would mean that any bond would have to be mechanical in nature, i.e.: use sandpaper to rough up the surface.
Just be aware that the solvents in lacquer will soften/dissolve the unprotected plastic bindings, so make sure to carefully mask these off before applying the lacquer finish.
I've got some dope thinner at home. I'll test what it does to the surface of the top wood I pulled off my 1619 and report back with the results. |
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October 2005
Posts: 4044
Location: Utah | Thanks. I'll be interested in the results.
The guitar with the neck dent might just have to go back to the mothership if there is no easy way to put on a clear coat myself. StewMac sells a water based lacquer which I might try on some neck bindings. The bindings are small enough that my hobby airbrush will probably do the job fine. I'm seriously considering putting wood binding on the Deacon, which would solve several problems. The Patriot could use new binding when I get around to refretting it, but I want to preserve the white binding appearance on that one. |
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June 2012
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | Well, the dope thinner didn't etch the finish at all. It cleaned it real good, though.
Bottom line, without sanding the lacquer isn't the way to go. In fact, I'd say that nothing is going to stick to the poly finish without sanding to give the top-coat some tooth.
Rather than water-based lacquer, you might want to try some Min-wax Poly-U clear. It doesn't have the same harsh solvents as lacquer, so it should be safe around the plastic bindings.
As I found with my 1619, the bindings aren't actually white, but ivory. The 'cream' binding from AllParts.com is a good match. (See: http://www.allparts.com/LT-1424-028-Cream-Binding-04_p_2156.html) |
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October 2005
Posts: 4044
Location: Utah | Thanks for the info. Also, thanks for the binding you sent. It is very much appreciated. |
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June 2012
Posts: 2316
Location: Pueblo West, CO | You're welcome. |
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August 2003
Posts: 4619
Location: SoCal | Catalyzed Polyester...I have a 1687 CL that had CYA all over the top and numerous finish cracks, advised that I could use CYA remover without damage. Not only did it remove the CYA but I was able to 'fill and sand' the finish cracks with 2400 grit up to 12000 sanding pads from StewMac without damage to the gloss. |
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Location: Pueblo West, CO | FWIW, CA remover is acetone. |
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Location: SoCal | Dan. mystery for me...I have found that acetone works well on some CYA, yet fails on some CYA....just as StewMac;s CYA remover works sometimes but on another guitar fails. If acetone works, some nail polish remover has acetone. Whatever you use, once you have found the right product, as simple as wiping off.
With this 6759. there was so much CYA on the top and inside the bowl, the FBI could have taken the fingerprints without dusting. Initially tried acetone. Actually removed all cracks (yes, removed 6 from bridge to bottom) except one that ran the length of the bass side and that one you can't see unless you look at an angle. Real project as failed pre-amp (replacement saddle fixed that) and need to replace the 1st three frets. Now, a great deep bowl dark sunburst 'old lady' rescued from a rental agency (or the trashcan). |
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June 2012
Posts: 2316
Location: Pueblo West, CO | Hi Tony,
Yes, you're right. There are many different formulations of CA. Some are more robust, i.e.: chemical resistant, than others. For example, hobby-grade CA like Zap, requires a good soaking before it will begin to soften and can be removed. Other CA, like SuperGlue can be wiped off with an rag wetted with acetone.
On your 6759, it sounds like the acetone softened the CA enough to allow it to flow into the cracks and fill them, making them 'disappear' in the process.
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What was the clear gloss finish in the 1970's?
