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June 2011
Posts: 29
Location: North Carolina | Last week, I posted a pic of my new (to me) 68 Balladeer shiny bowl. 
http://www.ovationfanclub.com/megabbs/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=37690&posts=9&start=1 moody, p.i. noticed that the bridge looked walnut and not the standard brazilian rosewood. I think the bridge was replaced sometime, and I do think it is an Ovation factory bridge and not a homemade job. It has the perfect contours of the newer bridges except it's cut in 5 points. I recently acquired (from a distinguished member of the OFC) a NOS Ovation factory-made brazilian rosewood 5 point bridge. My question is: can the walnut bridge be removed without further damaging the finish. This 68 has a couple of wood cracks behind the bridge, but no other finish cracking. Do I risk more finish cracking (or worse) by attempting to replace the bridge? Thanks!
Edited by Fitch 2014-04-29 4:24 PM
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Joined:
October 2005
Posts: 4046
Location: Utah | I would leave it the way it is. It looks like a factory installed bridge, possibly not original but still a correctly done factory job. There's nothing wrong with Walnut. If you want it darker, I would stain it rather than replace it. If it isn't original to the guitar, the guitar is no longer original and some $ value is theoretically lost. Putting on a rosewood bridge would not make it original and thus would not restore the $ value.
So, in my opinion, the only reason to replace the bridge is if you really dislike the cosmetics. If that guitar is a '68 and in generally good condition, I personally wouldn't take the chance of damaging it by pulling the existing bridge off.
That's my opinion, and I know it didn't help answer the question about the risks of damage, but I've never replaced a bridge. |
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June 2012
Posts: 2320
Location: Pueblo West, CO | I agree. Personally, if the bridge is performing its job, I would leave it in place.
WRT the question of removing the old bridge without damage, that would depend on the glue used.
If it was hide glue, then some steam would pop it off without damage to either the bridge or the surrounding finish.
If it was a factory job, then in all likelihood they used epoxy and the odds of removing it without damage is slim. The only way to break an epoxy glue joint is with high heat. At 170 degrees and above, epoxy will start to soften and glue joints can be separated, but you'd need take steps to insulate the surrounding finish to protect it from the heat being applied to the bridge.
If it were my guitar, I would not try to remove the bridge. |
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September 2011
Posts: 402
Location: New Hartford CT | Fitch I have a '67 DB with the same condition - original 5 pt RW bridge replaced at the factory with a 5 pt walnut one. The bridge popped off sometime in the early 70's and they replaced it with walnut.
Back then they just used what they had on hand. |
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May 2002
Posts: 1445
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada | The replacement bridge would normally be bigger to hide a footprint of the previous bridge. If that is not the case (you can compare it to your nos one) then it is probably original. Either way, I would not try to replace it unless you really had to. |
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January 2014
Posts: 402
Location: Taxed To Death State | If it ain't broken don't fix it is my motto. Fitch she's a beauty and a rare bird,wish I bought it but I'm glad it's in your extremely appreciative hands. Maybe someday you will find a matching 68' 12 DB to sit along side her. Don't worry I won't tell the Mrs. Shhhhhhhh |
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June 2011
Posts: 29
Location: North Carolina | This is what I needed to hear. Thanks for the advice everyone! I'm leaving it as-is. |
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May 2002
Posts: 1445
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada | .
Edited by Bluebird 2014-05-04 10:13 PM
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March 2002
Posts: 15664
Location: SoCal | Just a quick observation.... when the factory removes a bridge, they grind it off which means resurfacing the entire top. You're smart to leave what's there in place. Besides, the observation was made that it's a beautiful guitar. I agree with that.
Also, you label it a Balladeer. It's not. It's a Deluxe Balladeer. The best guitar Ovation built in 1968 (until they built the Glen Campbell DB, which is the same guitar with more bling)......
Edited by moody, p.i. 2014-05-04 10:20 PM
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Joined:
August 2003
Posts: 4619
Location: SoCal | I agree with not worrying the bridge, especially without the skills from the factory. I have a small soundhole 1968 shiny bowl Balladeer 12-string #A-347. It was a BIN eBay from an esteemed OFC'er.
Later, as the finish peeled off the rosette (actually paper) my only recourse was to have John Budny send me a Legend rosette...after sanding down the back studs of the rosette, looks fine, even if not original (yes, I kept the original rosette). It is a beautiful old lady (sorry, my guitars are ladies).
Unfortunately, I rarely play it only because I have a number of 12's. However, it is a boomer and acoustic.
I have been reluctant to list it for sale as it is not original due to the rosette. However, it needs to get a lot of play. Imagine, 46 years old. Except for Ovation, not many other 12-strings are excellent players after 46 years. Wow!!
With the Fender debacle, it is the preservation of Ovation's history that is important. By the way, the rosette looks great. Don't worry about the bridge. Enjoy.
Edited by Tony Calman 2014-05-05 12:10 AM
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Replace Bridge on 68 Deluxe Balladeer?
