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July 2013
Posts: 98
Location: Des Moines, Iowa | While I'm not even remotely qualified to be even an honorary mascot or member of your guild, I thought I might impose on the artists in regards to a small surface issue with one of my guitars. I've got a nice Legend 1867 that is black in color and has a top surface the shines like a sheet of glass, except for one small area/issue.
Just below the sound hole and a bit towards the guitars "butt" the glossy sheen/shine is a bit dull due to years of plastic picks sometimes scraping across the top face surface in a small area. Is this something that just needs to be buffed out and/or can it be buffed out or polished out in any way?
It's hardly even a flaw and you really have to look for this small issue or you won't notice it. Of course I know it's there so I notice it all the time and I just thought, hey... if all it needs is several minutes of soft buffing and/or application of some wax, then why not make it look.... PERFECT!
ANYONE? |
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November 2002
Posts: 3611
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Ask MWoody. He's the authority. Should be by, pretty soon. The equipment at The MotherShip is about 24-inch-diameter buffing wheels. Not many of us "shadetrees" have that stuff. Getting the surface that flat, takes a wheel that big. Maybe, hand rub the area with some rottenstone, and hit it with a little wax.
As they say, YMMV. |
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August 2003
Posts: 4619
Location: SoCal | StewMac has a foam buffing wheel (fits common drill) and swirl remover which easily buffs out a lot of various damage. This is also highlighted in the FAQ's referencing fixing finish cracks, etc. |
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March 2005
Posts: 12755
Location: Boise, Idaho | I took a drill mounted buffer and some polishing compound to my heavily scratched Ultra GS. Swirl remover is the smoothest, then polishing compound, then rubbing compound. It got enough off that it's hard to see the scratches. If your guitar is old enough to have the thick poly finish, you can buff a lot before you get down to the wood. You can get all the stuff at a car parts place. I used it because I have it all in the garage. |
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July 2013
Posts: 98
Location: Des Moines, Iowa | Awesome... I love you guys, as you're always responding to queries and questions thrown out by us newbies, such as myself and helping out with your own experiences and knowledge. Thanks for letting me know there's some good stuff regarding treatment of finishes and fixing cracks in the FAQ section. I'm all over it. I've been entertaining the idea of attempting some amateur Luthier-ing, at least in regards to repair and refurbishing... definitely not even remotely qualified to actually build.
I've got the free StewMac catalog and I've devoured their web site and accompanied sites for tips and tricks, I've watched several hours of video posted on YouTube by very accomplished Luthiers and I've saved dozens of other sites and resources for all things Luthier-y.
I've got one old Legend 1617 that I might "experiment with," in addition to possibly getting another "project" Ovation or two if the price is right. It does sound like acquiring a nice, fair sized, table mounted buffer just might be a good piece of equipment to have in pursuit of such things. I've got a few larger clamps that will work for the outsides, so I'm considering getting a few of the sound hole type clamps, which will be useful for fixing cracks or mounting bridges.
I've heard some rather hinted suggestions that there might be a few of you here that do some of their own refurbishing work, although it does seem that at some point or with some guitars, the mother ship is called down from the sky to work their alien magic. I'm sure with something as sweet as an Adamas or some Custom Legend or Custom Elite of vintage heritage might warrant a meeting at the base of Devil's Tower with the mother ship, but... just a regular old 1979-year Legend 1617 that needs some pretty-ing up, well... I thought I just might take a stab at it.
I'll check out the FAQ for more info, but I'm also betting that a spray gun capable of applying the Poly-whatever it is... finish and a nice big buffer would be a requirement. Has anyone here done a full re-finish of an Ovation, which would also require some serious elbow grease or a good powered sander of the proper size, shape, and capability needed to strip an Ovation soundboard down to the wood.
Thanks agan for the tips... I'll try a little rubbing compound and some serious buffing to see if that helps. I didn't want to try ANYTHING on my nice Legend without plenty of research and advice, so I greatly appreciate it... AND... I'll hang out for a bit more and see if MWoody drops by and is so kind as to share some of his extreme wisdom.
THANKS! |
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Joined:
December 2003
Posts: 13987
Location: Upper Left USA |
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies.html
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Hand_polishing.html The motto at Stewart McDonald - "Practice on scrap" Or at least start our slow and press on. There is a lot of free info at the Stewmac site.
Edited by MWoody 2014-02-18 2:13 PM
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March 2005
Posts: 12755
Location: Boise, Idaho | Instead of buying a mountable buffer wheel, why not try an orbital buffer for a car? They can be obtained cheaply and aren't too hard to use. I have had one for years and resisted using it for fear of damage to the car, but finally tried last summer and it did a great job taking out some fine finish scratches that were probably from the prior owner's dog. (Still talking about cars, not guitars)
Seems like you could set up a bench with something that would keep your Ovation from rocking and use the orbital buffer on it. |
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July 2013
Posts: 98
Location: Des Moines, Iowa | Awesome, thanks again fellow fans. Yes, that StewMac site is a virtual treasure trove of videos and information, not to mention parts and tools for doing all things Luthier-y.
Thanks for those links MWoody. I don't suppose there's anything anywhere that speaks specifically to the Ovations finishes, since there's do appear to be somewhat unique and different than most others. Of course it IS Ovations very unique style, feel, and sound that drew me in and keeps me loving 'em.
OH... and as far as my first dabbles into any work on a guitar, it's going to be a guitar I can afford to lose and/or one that isn't overly valuable or unique, BUT... is still worthy of receiving the "treatment."
When I go to the casino to try my luck, which isn't very often, I take what I can afford to lose and have already counted it as gone money. Once it's used up, I don't hit the ATM or reach any deeper into my pockets, I'm done and I walk away. I'll use that same philosophy with any guitar I use to test, try, and practice my "as yet to be acquired" skills.
THANKS AGAIN to everyone for responding and sharing your what you know with the new kid on the block. |
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Joined:
August 2003
Posts: 4619
Location: SoCal | Check out the article I wrote for finish cracks, etc. Should still be in the FAQ.
An individual we know well at the factory spent hours with me on the phone to overcome my fears and help with my technique. Finish is Catalyzed Polyester. |
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March 2007
Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | why no pickguards on most Ovation acoustics? My applause has one but not my pacemaker |
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March 2002
Posts: 15664
Location: SoCal | Because Ovation players are so good that we don't need pickguards...... |
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March 2005
Posts: 12755
Location: Boise, Idaho | I was told when I bought my first one that the thick catalyzed polyester finish was supposed to act as a pickguard. I'm not so sure they should be on any guitar, especially when you can amplify one so you don't need to hammer on the strings so hard. |
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January 2014
Posts: 402
Location: Taxed To Death State | I worked in an automotive bodyshop for many years while I was in college. I use to buff out corvettes and other types of nice vehicles. I have applied many of the same techniques to my guitars with great results. Provided you have a good clearcoat left to work with, I use 3M Fine rubbing compound to work out any imperfections in the finish. I never have used an electric buffer, just good old fashioned elbow grease. After I have worked out the finish I want, I seal the deal with 3M Imperial hand glaze which fills in and polishes the fine swirls left by the compound. After that I use Guild guitar polish and the results are quite good. |
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January 2014
Posts: 402
Location: Taxed To Death State | I did my Viper by hand. Looks mucho shiny.
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March 2005
Posts: 12755
Location: Boise, Idaho | Nice job. My arm hurts just thinking about all the elbow grease that took. I've also found that 3M products for cars work nicely on guitars, but mostly because I am too cheap to buy stuff for guitars when I already have stuff in the garage. 3M also makes a swirl remover, which may be the same as you use or it might be an even less abrasive rubbing compount than the 3M Fine. |
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Joined:
January 2014
Posts: 402
Location: Taxed To Death State | Thanks Mark, it wasn't that bad really. Not like doing the hood of a 1960 Cadillac. 3M, even Meguiars makes great finishing chemicals. Nothing like a good rub on your.... Guitar that is. |
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January 2014
Posts: 402
Location: Taxed To Death State | Another garage to electric guitar repair tip..... I use a "never seize" lubricant on the threads of my bridge posts, angle adjuster bolt, and neck bolts. Keeps them from ever rusting, cross threading ,or binding up and makes adjustments easier. |
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Ovation Top Surface Buffing?
